Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

Hi, all,

Need a little advice.  This is a 2003 Outback Sedan with H-6 engine and automatic.  One tire in front developed a ply failure and I bought 4 new, all were to the wear bars.  I laboriously took off the fronts one at a time and carried them down to a tire shop for mounting, now the front axle has two new and the rears are down to the wear bars. Obviously the twin shafts coming out of the transfer case are going to spin at different speeds and the clutch in there will have to take up the slip.  Asking at the dealership and they say do not drive it (only 10 miles to that garage) or I can wreck the clutch pack in there.

 

In looking through the web I discovered a post where there is a fuse spot inside the front fusebox in the engine compartment, marked "FWD," and if you pop a fuse in there then the solenoid engages constantly and disconnects power to the rear shaft, thus converting the car to a front-wheel only.  So I go look in the box and there aare no spade contact points ofr that fuse!  Looks like SUbie decided not to include that wiring feature in the Outback Sedan. 

 

Is there some other way to wire up that solenoid?  How risky is it to drive it over to the dealer with both shafts engaged (and presumably the sensors will disengage the clutch, maybe not). Or should I err on the safe side, jack up the car in my driveway, pull off one tire at a time, and do a ferry trip x 2 to finish the mounting?  Which latter exercise is a real pain, already wrecked one jack when the car slipped and bent it to a pretzel.  Oh, well. 

 

And, what provoked Subaru to not install the by-pass wiring into the front fuse box on this model?  Sure would make life easier!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there should be a FWD fuse there.

 

It will be at the end of a row of relays. At the firewall end of the box. Look at the diagrahm on the insdie of the fuse box lid.

 

It's a small recess for the fuse, easy to miss but definately should be there.

 

Consult the owners manual about using the spare tire and you will find more info.

Edited by Gloyale
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VDC models don't have a FWD fuse because they don't really need it.  I don't think they can even get torque bind and i've never heard of one failing by itself (i've seen them fail from other internal transmission issues beating them to (!)$*%).  VDC's have a VTD and I wouldn't worry and just drive it 10 miles to the shop.

 

Alternately, if you don't have a rear LSD you can put one new tire on the front, and the other new tire on the rear.  Since each open differential is actually only driving one wheel, this works and would certainly do for a one way 10 mile trip.

 

If you have a spare - use that and you'll have three matching tires - have two spares?  Or use your spare and you'll only have one more grueling trip. 

 

If yours isn't a VDC then it should have a fuse unless H6's got the VTD in 2003 but I don't think they did?

 

For liability reasons and illogical consumers the dealer has to say not to do it.  I wouldn't fault them for dealing with the public for that one comment.

 

If you don't have a rear LSD you can put one new tire on the front, and the other new tire on the opposite side rear. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, Gloyale, the slot is there in that fusebox, and the lid is engraved with the "FWD" on the corresponding spot, but the fuse receptacle itself has no metal receiving spade slots.  So it looks like Subaru uses the same fusebox across a range of models but did not provide the feature in this model, there is no wiring to correspond to where the fuse would be inserted. 

 

I was thinking that it likely is a 30-amp. If so, and the wiring points can be identified somewhere else, then I owuld wire in a jumper.  But where?  Or is it not even possible?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aha!  Thank you, Idosubaru!  Yes, this is a VDC model. I have no idea what VDC means but I have seen it in there.  Presumablhy there is some mechanism that will automatically allow for the slip, is that correct? 

 

My guess is that the differentials a limited-slip, otherwise they would be relatively cheap to repair  (I did an overhaul on busted cluster gears once , went easy enough).  Dealer tells me it is $2,000 to rebuild the diff in this car.  Ouch!  So it must have clutches in there. 

 

So that leaves a slip device in the transfer case take-off to do the work.  I am guessing that "VTD" is shorthand for that slip devis=ce, presumably full-time.  Could you clarify?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I though, just drive it, it doesn't matter. 

 

Keep in mind there are three differentials in your vehicle - front, rear, and a "center diff", seems like you may be confusing some of them. 

 

VTD is only on VDC vehicles of this era and is your "center differential", it's a planetary gear set that allows for a differential without using clutches.  It's very slick.  It takes the place of the MPT clutch assembly in every other Subaru of that era and ealier, and is what the FWD would control so there's no clutches to control or wear. 

 

By LSD I would referring to the rear differential, which wouldn't be what the dealer was quoting regarding a rebuild.  I don't think VDC's in that year got a rear limited slip differential, but I could be wrong and it doesn't matter anywyay since you have VDC. 

 

By this age and miles those rear LSD's suck anyway and probably just operate like an open diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aha!   So there is an actual functioing center differential complete with float gears in there!  And that explains everything.  Yup, so as long as each axle has matched-wear tires, it will run just fine.  Good to know. 

 

This car only has about 145K miles on it, driven gently by the wife, almost always on dry roads, so those clutch packs inside the axle diffs likely have little actual use, probably have been engaged full-time 99% of the time.  I would doubt there is measurable wear in there. 

 

And yes, that $2K  quote was for a limited-slip differential (just one).  Seemed steep to me. Dealers tend to overcharge the customers, in my experience.  They figure the customer has no clue. Oh, well.  Incidentally that H-6 engine is weeping oil out through the gaskets, I am told the engine has to be pulled (likely with the transmission) to be torn down and re-gasketed.  How brutal a job is that?  Cheaper to buy a new motor block and go from there, since the labor to pull and install is likely a quite a bill? Or do you just live with it and let her leak? Mechanics tell me it is a common development after about 100K miles. What causes that?  A decent gasket should last the life of the engine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the VDC cars have an actual differential in the center, and they also have clutch plates to actively limit any slippage.

 

Interestingly, the owner's manual specifically says that if using the temporary spare, put the FWD fuse in for non-VDC cars, but no mention about what to do with a VDC car, so maybe it's fine....

 

 

Long story short, it might be just fine, but the cost of a tow vs the cost of a transmission (or even just clutch pack)....I'd have it towed in...

 

 

 

 

FYI, "VDC" stands for Vehicle Dynamic Control, which is stability control. But the VDC cars come with VTD, which is Variable Torque Distribution, which refers to the different AWD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

which gaskets are leaking? valve cover gaskets are a bear, but often done in-car, perhaps using some jacking techniques to shift each side of the engine for more clearance....

 

I don't think leaking gaskets 'in general' are unusual in many older cars...that said, Subaru HAS had issues with head gaskets in more than one series of engines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And he's using 2 matching old tires not one mismatch so no worry if it is an LSD

I mentioned that in reference to moving one of those two tires to the front.  So one warn and one new tire up front and one warn and one new tire in the back.   Just to drive it those 10 miles if he's really worried about it. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

SO I drove the 2003 OUtback the 12 miles or so to the garage, I oculd hear a whine out of the center differential, but nothing grotesque.  With the car on the lift I looked underneath and the rear differential is without the typical tell-tale bulge that would house a limited-slip clutch pack on one half-shaft output.  It looks like Subaru dispenses with these limited-slip differentials altogether in favor of the braking system on slipping wheels to flow torque to the wheel with traction.  So all the fuss about matching tires may well be without merit for this particular set-up. Anyway, now have four new Hankook 727 tires on there (727, not 724, big difference), rated to be particularly effective in snow for us up here in Central Vermont!  

 

Pulled the engine cover and there was all this oil splattered around the upper front, could either be leaking from the AC compressor or being splashed up by fan drive and belt drive from a leaking timing chain cover.  At 150K miles this is discouraging.  For the liife of me I cannot understand why gaskets cannot be designed and fabricated to last the life of the installation.  I suspect pulling the timing chain cover is a real bear in-situ, although if you pull the radiator and tranny cooler out of there (and the AC condenser) then you might be able to get at it from the front.  Any suggestions?

 

As to the valve cover gaskets, sure looks like those are leaking also.  Ugh.  Pressure-washed everything clean with hot water, we shall see where it is leaking soon enough. I run a hose from the hot-water side of the washing machine connection in the basement out a casement window to my $99 Home Depot pressure washer, works like a charm. Nice hot water to blow off the grease after spraying with degreaser.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDIT; missed the VDC part and also learned about location of oil pressure sender! (still, I guess it's a possible leak source)

 

VC gaskets are a real possibility. OIl cooler adapter . Some folks will have severe power steering whine with so much air entrainment PS fluid could blow out of the reservoir - all of these are more likely than the timing chain cover leaking.

 

check the 'sticky' threads at the top of the 2nd gen forum and do searches on the items I mentioned for more info.

 

My 03 has viscous rear LSD. It also has the 'weather package' .  With the rear up and trans in N, turn a wheel - if the other side turns the same direction, you have rear LSD. but VDC won't have this I think?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VDC cars do not have a rear LSD, either. As mentioned, it's designed to allow the VDC system to work effectively.

 

oil pressure switch near alternator

 

FYI, H6 oil pressure switch is above the oil filter on the side of the upper oil pan.

Edited by Numbchux
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VDC cars do not have a rear LSD, either. As mentioned, it's designed to allow the VDC system to work effectively.

 

Have you verified that? That's been my thought as well, but I'm not really positive about it.

 

I've seen some confusing information. Like Subaru saying "VDC model adds XYZ to the base model" - in which case the base model has VLSD rear.

A few years ago I saw 2002's and 2003's listed differently - both confusing, though I can't recall where.

Edited by idosubaru
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you verified that? That's been my thought as well, but I'm not really positive about it.

 

100% (for '00-'04, anyway), from several sources. Subaru OEM parts catalogs (I use them for a living) being one of them.

 

2003 added the cold weather package as standard, so the only non-LSD '03-'04 Outbacks are VDC cars.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

100% (for '00-'04, anyway), from several sources. Subaru OEM parts catalogs (I use them for a living) being one of them.

 

2003 added the cold weather package as standard, so the only non-LSD '03-'04 Outbacks are VDC cars.

. Great thanks. That's what I thought as I researched for mine (also a totaled salvage 02 I rebuilt like 8 years ago) but I wasn't sure why any more.

Recently I was looking again to confirm but didn't think to look up parts though now that you say that I think that's what I did years ago when I rebuilt mine.

Edited by idosubaru
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...