Yesterday the 2008 Outback 2.5i threw a check engine light.  So I got my trusty laptop and licensed full version VCDS (Vag-com) cable and hooked it up to use the generic OBDII reader section.

 

It came back with an error that said "car not ISO/OBDII compliant ????

 

I have used this setup to read both 97 legacys.  On the one I even used it to read O2 sensor voltages real time.

 

 

Did Subaru change the interface on later cars?

 

 

 

Hate to have to buy a stand alone reader.

 

 

Stopped at Autozone after my Lowes run.

 

Code P0031 Bank1 Sensor 1 HO2s Heater control Circuit low voltage.

 

Front O2 Sensor?

 

 

Still interested in getting the reader issue resolved though.

Verify wiring for that sensor is ok. If so, yeah O2.

Your reader probably isn't CANBUS capable.

 

That's actually an air fuel ratio sensor (wideband). Heaters fail. It happens.

 

GD

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the front sensor, correct?

 

Denso the one to buy is is there another brand?

 

 

I'll check the wiring, but at 128,000 it probably due

I've installed denso and NTK before. Not sure which one if either are the oem manufacturer.

Denso is OEM. NTK should be fine also. They make spark plugs for Subaru.

 

GD

Local Subbie dealers online price for OEM is the same as Autozone's Denso.  Going to buy from Dealer as OEM.

Decided to pick up a code reader from Harbor freight.  Got the "deluxe" version, can read live data etc.  Hooked it up to the 2008 just to play with it.  Cleared the code expecting it to come back.  It did.

 

But what also happened was I lost my idle setting

 

So I updated the software, and I'll try it again.

 

Anyone else have this problem with their scanner ?

On many scanners, a reset is a reset to the ECM values as well. So all your READINESS tests are now NOT READY and the car has to recompute those values as well as run tests, like EVAP test , as you drive.

 

I mentioned the EVAP test because that requires time from a full tank of gas to 1/2 tank ans reading values in between. Later models have a vacuum pump that runs at a specific interval AFTER you park the vehicle. So SOMETIMES you hear a light 'wirring' coming from the car when it's just sitting there,

 

You could have just replaced the front sensor and driven the vehicle. After so many cycles, the CEL will reset itself and the light will go out. This way you do not reset or disturb other values already set. Just have to ignore the CEL for a few more days before it goes out.

 

Just drive..... eventually your idle will return to normal.

Edited July 28, 20178 yr by ferret

I had so many issues. And i mean a lot. With cleared the codes on a subie and then they not idle properly. There's a funky relearn procedure that you'll have to do if it doesn't learn on it's on.

 

I ended up using a different scanner whenever i work on subies to prevent that issue.

At least on my scan tool. It seems ton cause issues with the idle on 05-09 models.

 

Let me know if you want to know how to do the relearn without the factory tool.

Thanks

 

I found the re-learn idle procedure yesterday.  I also had a posting about it and the needed drive cycle to set readiness, but couldn't find it quickly. 

 

Problem with having multiple computers is your never sure where you bookmarked the page.

 

What scanner do you use on Subbies that doesn't blow everything away?

To the best of my experience, only the most expensive ones will 'correct' and not reset the ECM. 

 

They have software specific to the mfg and model of vehicle, then you select the sensor you replaced and it runs the test only having to deal with that sensor and  the CEL goes out.

 

Not worth investing in for the backyard mechanic..... but nice ti know it's there.

 

BTW, many service departments take the EASY way out also and do an ECM reset as well...... I saw that many times when I used to do part time work at a dealer in the late 90's and early 2000's. 

Put the A/F sensor in this am.  Refreshing not to have to climb under the car.  Used a long extension with a wobble adapter and the O2 sensor socket. With the OEM sensor, even had the holding tyewrap to put into the bracket at the right spot.

 

Now just have to fill the tank, and drive to set the evap readiness.

after clearing code, start and let car idle for 10 minutes without touching anything.

now take it for a drive for about 10 minutes on the highway, slow down and then drive on highway for another 5-10 minutes.. that works for me and all systems are set.

You can't buy a scanner for under $2500 that will do what you are asking. And some in that price range wont either.

 

When you reset the computer, or disconnect the battery, the idle relearn procedure will be required. There is no easy way around this.

 

GD

Edited July 29, 20178 yr by GeneralDisorder

I'm having a similar "stumbeling at idle" issue on my 09. However the 4 codes I get are a missfire on each of the four cylinders. Have you guys seen this before? BTW I purchased the car as a fixer and just put a used 100,000 longblock (longblock only) in the car since the old one was a knocker.