GeneralDisorder Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Yeah I just wad up a rag and rest the chamber on it when I'm using the valve master. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Thanks!..... I am about to get started on the process..... With regards to Lapping valves (still have to do the disassembly - removing the intake valves from heads but, heads are on the work bench at home)..... I have the necessary items (again thanks on the shopping list for these items) -----( valve lapping compound, the assembly lube and the suction cup spinner ) I saw/seen many approaches/methods of valve lapping on the internet..... In a couple of short sentences, I want to ask those who have been doing this, How it is accomplished..(what do you do, what are you looking for to know you are done with a valve) for example : 1.) Some People will Lap and put grinding compound on both the valve and the seat surfaces.... and some don't 2.) Some I have seen some People(Lappers) spinning and lifting valve and clapping it against the seat while spinning the valve during the lapping process. 3.) In regards to Wiping out the valve ports What is a good substance to use to clean out all the valve grinding compound? Common sense tells me some things but, I really just want a clear picture in my head of what my outcome should be. And I don't want to over do it........(if that could be the case).... And the valve lapping compound....... Seems like you don't want that stuff in a running engine.... So I would think it should be used conservatively..... Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Just roll it between your palms. Lift once in a while and reapply compound. You don't need much. Clean everything with brake cleaner and compressed air. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 22, 2017 Author Share Posted August 22, 2017 Thanks! Yeah, I should be able to dig in sometime tomorrow. Looking forward to getting the intake valves back in shape.... Replacing the valve seals, Is this pretty easy...... Where does the seal sit? On the head? How is it affixed? And run those heads over some 150 grit..... Recently, Dug a piece of old glass out of a job site..... must have been a shelf or something like that It is super thick...... It will be nice to put it to good use...large enough that it won't slide around.......big enough I can always throw some tape on it at the ends....... I noticed the grit sheets are 9" x 11".... Do the EJ22 heads actually fit on one sheet? Like EA82 heads fit on one sheet? Just curious, figured I would ask..... I brought the intake back too from where the downer vehicle is convalescing ..... so I will do some preventative stuff to it...... and of the metal tubes(vacuum or cooling), I will paint..... Been using some SEM products lately. I really like the results they are providing.... and priced fairly decent...... Decent paint....... "Rust Trap"..... no prep.... just slap it on....... If I have time..... Sometimes, I will go the extra step anyway.... throw Some.... "Rust Mort"(rust converter) on rusted surfaces..... Thanks, Again.... Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 So I am in the process now of working on the heads..... Been something I wanted to mention but, just kept forgetting and it was less important at the time, there have been other more previous important questions to ask. I got two head bolts that are in bad shape..... Corroded? rusted? carbon? not quite sure....... They are #6 head bolt Driver's side(back top firewall) and #3 head bolt passenger side(back top near firewall) The Driver's side head.... the sleeve/guide actually came out with the head (could be because the head bolt was a fight to get out of the head. Had to get the head bolt out of head afterwards, on bench) Wonder on if anyone else has had this happen.. Perhaps it is common. I ordered new ones, they should be available to be picked up Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 I got to work on heads for a little while... I ended up using a drill press to compress springs to get the keepers out. This worked great. Thanks, for the idea of cutting a socket to see and remove the keepers. I ended up using a 1" socket that I put a 3/4"I.D. piece of PVC pipe in and notched the pvc pipe. This seems to be working ok....... I did one intake valve today. As for the valve seals, Do I really have to tap them on with a socket?????? They seem to pop on by hand nicely....... What it the best way to install them.?? How secure is secure??? I don't want to marr them up..... I am looking for sugestions Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Usually just use a 1/4" drive seep socket to tap them on... gently. Honestly we never change them - they just don't fail in our experience so it's rarely worth the effort. If lapping valves I sometimes change them if I'm feeling like it needs it but I have yet to see a bad one. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Cool! I won't change anymore of them...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 I am worried about the threads in the block for the head bolts Upon taking the heads off this is what I experienced...... [[[[i got two head bolts that are in bad shape..... Corroded? rusted? carbon? not quite sure....... They are #6 head bolt Driver's side(back top firewall) and #3 head bolt passenger side(back top near firewall)]]]] So I bought three new head bolts from Soobie dealer. I will have them on Friday. But, I got to chase these threads. Can you help me with what I need to chase these threads............. How far in the block are these threads???? Are they chaseable???? etc etc etc Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Yes they're just a standard M11x1.25 thread pitch. Get an M11x1.25 tap and it'll clean them up. If the bolts go to the bottom, technically you should start with a regular tap and then hit the remaining threads with a bottoming tap, but I'm not sure if the bolt threads go all the way to the bottom of the holes and realistically most people skip, don't have, or use bottoming taps anyway. The bolts go through the heads - so while they look long - it's not like the holes are insanely deep. Edited August 24, 2017 by idosubaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 If you don't feel like spending the money on long(ish) taps or rethreaders. I've cut groves into old head bolts and used those to clean the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Nice, I had heard of something like that with the head bolts..... and cutting a groove in them. How would I go about that? (you know, doing a nice job cutting a groove in a bolt) Got what your saying on the bolt length versus the block tapings...... Yeah bolts are crazy long...... due to that there is not a cambox sitting/bolted to the head.... It's all in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 When I've had to do it, i just take an angle grinder and cut a grove in the bolt from the very bottom, in the threads at a slight angle to allow for a debris to go in there instead of in the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Nice, I had heard of something like that with the head bolts..... and cutting a groove in them. How would I go about that? (you know, doing a nice job cutting a groove in a bolt) Got what your saying on the bolt length versus the block tapings...... Yeah bolts are crazy long...... due to that there is not a cambox sitting/bolted to the head.... It's all in one. I use a high-speed cutoff tool. You can also use a right angle grinder with a fiber cutoff disk, or a dremel with a disk. Cut a shallow groove along the length of the bolt, at an angle so the "teeth" you create on the trailing side of the groove while screwing in, will have a sharper point. Works very well. golucky66 beat me to it... I'm a slow typer. Edited August 24, 2017 by Subaru Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I use a high-speed cutoff tool. You can also use a right angle grinder with a fiber cutoff disk, or a dremel with a disk. Cut a shallow groove along the length of the bolt, at an angle so the "teeth" you create on the trailing side of the groove while screwing in, will have a sharper point. Works very well. golucky66 beat me to it... I'm a slow typer. Lolol. Look at all these people who are trying to help! Were cutting the line just to give advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Your guys know each other, right? I know, that's how we talk to Rrr friend's over 'ere in this part of the North East..... I think this emoticon below is a good representation of the cut (looking a his mouth as the cut) and referring to clockwise as tightening and the emoticon is a crossection of the bolt ( like slicing a hot dog or spicy local made sausage) So this grove/notch???? I can cut it the length of the total threads on the bolt and not cause any trouble?( or just go about 25mm's or less like 12) ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in on this? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask -- they would be easier to manuever) No worries! We're not at the Deli counter...........By all means Chime in........ As long as it's not for the decent rare roast beef I am currently devouring...... Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Thanks... now I'm hungry! The thread chaser trick is just so easy and works so well that we're excited to share it. The other day, I was looking for my 6mm tap, because I had a genuine blank hole to tap, and realized after a while that it had broken a couple years ago, and I've been using homemade chasers since! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 You're Welcome!.... Seems I often come to the screen with food...... Got some OG.Soft Boil Eggs... and Peas... Lot's of butter... Olive oil.... Going to have breakfast..... it's 2:30Am!!! and gotta get to bed......... but, It is important that I post gotta get "Pearl" up and running.......... Sounds great using the bolt that way....... I must say.... a rather brilliant innovation.... Thanks fo' sharin'...... Anyone know about these head bolts below being similiar in width and pitch??????????????????? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in onthis? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask --they would be easier to manuever to use as chaserssssssssssszzzzzzz) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also I don't know what it is called...... but, Let's just call them "Head Retainer Sleeves"(They Stick out of the block like little nipples and then the head kind goes on them takes the initial stress off the bolts while mounting....) Are they absolutely necessary? I believe the answer is Yes they are necessary.....BUT,,,,, I HAVE TO ASK.... (I had one come out with the head on the driver's side.... It was a fight to get it out of the head but, I won....Sorta) I had to destroy it.... to get it out..... I have to go to the dealer tomorrow.... If I have to get one..... It just means that I may have to wait to do the assembly......... Due to not have a "Head Retainer Sleeve..... Thanks, and good night,,,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Someone like GD could give you a true concrete answer as he's an engine builder. But i believe they are absolutely necessary. The two of those on each head/side are what truly align the head to the block. Otherwise, you have movement because the bolts aren't a very tight tolerance jn the head. Just used to clamp. So yes. They are important. Get your hands on another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Ok, I will get some.... good to have extras..... they can't cost much...... Just the waiting.... for them.... but, yeah, Makes sense...... I mean yeah "they are there for a reason", right? And as your are saying GL66.... Prevents movement and Alignment....... Allowing the bolt/bolts to not have to fight gravity... Yeah, If GD could chime in, regarding the many reasons why they did the sleeves. I think there are many.............. Just wondering....... AND Be good to know about these head bolts......... The question below is still out ..... for some answers..... Anyone know about these head bolts below being similiar in width and pitch??????????????????? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** EJ22 Head bolts are as IDO mentioned earlier M11x1.25 pitch I think EA82 Head bolts are the same(but not as long) I am correct on this???? Anybody out there Chime in onthis? (Cuz, I got lots of old EA82 head bolts, that is why I ask --they would be easier to manuever to use as chaserssssssssssszzzzzzz) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Known as Dowel Pins (sorta pricey -just under four bucks a piece) - I bought five...... good to have some around (I think). I guess I will have to start a new box for EJ22 Stuff.... (Sadly, will be phasing out EA82 stuff...... but, I think I got another 20K on my "Last Loyale"(Sounds like a romance novel title) to go... She runs really well Spry ol' girl she is) Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 So you want to use EA82 head bolts as chasers? Yes they're the same threads - other attributes I'm uncertain of, but unless the threads stop abruptly which I'm not remembering that should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thanks for , Chiming in IDO...... Yeah, I dug one up..... EA82 head bolts..... There is half the amount of thread on an EA82 head bolt as compared to an EJ22 Head bolt. So, I am figuring, it won't clean/run the whole depth of the EJ22 block to clean the threads..... Thanks for , Chiming in IDO...... So I have been looking for nuts to run on an 11mm x 1.25 Head bolt...... I am not having any success.... I was going to Use these nuts to run on the "Homemade head bolt chaser" to deburr them after I stick a groove in the headbolt(as previously described in this post)..... So,,,,,,,, any suggestions......?????????????????????? Side note:(a brain draining) I ended up having some sad stuff go down with an EA82 motor once(still driving the car, actually) CHECK THIS OUT.....:::::::::: So head bolts would not tighten to the proper torque.... matter of fact........ (I would say in simple terms the threads in the block became stripped) I ended up getting some E8 7/16" fine thread,,,, threaded rod...(from Fastenal [ I should call them for 11mm x 1.25 nuts)... I ran that in the stripped block threads and held the head on with nuts.... used the regular head bolts in the locations where I could...... threaded rod in the others.... Torqued to the desired Specification....... (bake @ 350 degrees 45 minutes.. ..) So why am I bringing this up??? Well, 7/16" fine thread (I will have to check) is almost the same thread...(like at some point is not...14 threads in or 20...something like that for just one thread..)... It is very possible that the nut for the 7/16" threaded rod will be able to thread on and deburr the 11mm x 1.25 "Homemade Chaser Head Bolt" I think I may still have some of those nuts....... I will post about the 7/16" fine threaded nuts and 11mm x 1.25 comparison.... I have to see where I put these nuts.....If I still had any left...... (always, buy extra... that is my motto) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 Update Regarding 11mm x 1.25 and 7/16" fine thread: I did find several 7/16" fine thread nuts (in the collection of haphazard remnants in my garage of the piles of stuff from "Completed Jobs Gone By" The stuff ----- that I have no idea if I will ever use it again). The nuts thread on nicely onto the 11mm x 1.25 Head bolts. So I will be able to use these 7/16" nuts with fine thread to deburr the 11mm x 1.25 Head bolts that will be used as Homemade thread chasers..(rather than waiting because I had to order them(11mmx1,25 nuts) somewhere(ie:fastenal).. Aye,I just want to thank everybody again for their help / chiming in and thanks to the forum, for being this community of minds that are willing to draw off of each other's knowledge and experience(and those offering their minds) for the benefit of all those that want to extend the life of these machines.... I am not near finished with this work on this car... but, I am getting close to reassembly of the damaged heads onto the block. I replaced all eight intake valves. picked up a nice timing belt with integrated assembly and water pump kit today. Will resurface the heads tomorrow on some 150 grit. AND will drive out Sunday to the car which is about four hours away to do the reassembly. I will keep this thread going until completion of the work. And I know I still have lots more questions to ask to the forum regarding assembly of this EJ22. Thanks, MIcky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 Are you's familiar with ROLOC 3M Bristle Brushes.....??? I have been using them for quite sometime now.... great for cleaning gasket material off..... I will use this on the block surface.... Been using it to clean EA82 blocks It gives exceptional results...... https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/629878O/3m-roloc-bristle-discs.pdf Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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