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how to repaIR BAd woodruff key slot on craNK

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I JUST BOUGHT A 1996 subaRU OUTBAck waGON And noticed thaT THE CRAnk pulley haD A slight wobble to it while running.I took it off aND NOTICED THAt the pulley's slot for the woodruff key waS 3 SIZES WIDER THAn it should be.whaTS WORSE THAn this is thaT THE WOODRUFF KEY SLOT IN THE CRAnk is aLSO DAmaGED And i caNT EVEN GET THE KEY OUT. I HAve been told by the subaRU DEAler thaT THEY WOULD REPLAce the entire craNK. THEY Also saID THAt they haVE HEArd of people welding this woodruff key slot in order to repAir it. HaS Anyone ever haD A problem similaR TO THIS. THE DEAler maDE IT SOUND LIKE IT WAs quite common. this key must be designed too soft or something. thaNKS FOR Any aDVISE

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It appears to be common. I've heard of this on a few older 2.2L engines. I don't have a fix for you, but is it possible to just replace the pulley without removing the old key; even if you might have to file its width dow to where it belongs? Then properly torque down the pulley nut. This failure occurs when the nut is improperly tightened.

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The part to go in the crank was as wide as the worn slot and I filed the pulley side down to stock. You just start with a large key. You must be careful to get the pulley in the correct position if it times from the front pulley.

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Theoretically, you could make a key out of copper, stick it where it's supposed to be, and then mig weld up all of the excessively worn areas. The weld won't stick to the copper. You should be able to pull the copper key out, and then finish everything up with a metal file.

 

Similar thing happened to my mom's legacy wagon. It took a chip out of the crank, but didn't beat it up excessively. I cleaned everything that touched the crank, then assembled it with sleeve-retaining loctite (dark green-609?). I let it set up for 24 hours. The parents then went on a 1000 mile road trip with no problems.

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Loctite makes a product called quick metal which is made specifically for repairing worn out keyways and fixing similar problems. It’s a thick silver liquid in a tube which you fill the worn out area around the key with. Like most other Loctite products it sets only when assembled in a joint, depriving it of air. It requires clean dry parts like other Loctite products and sets up at room temp. I have seen it hold up for a period of a year in big industrial drives that reverse direction under load twenty times a minute. At that rate, I would expect it to last nearly forever in a crank key application which is lighter load and turns only in one direction. If nothing else, it only takes a few minutes to perform the repair after disassembly, and should it not hold up, there is no permanent damage from the repair itself. I don't normally see it in stores, might have to get it from a bearing supply house or online loctite distributor.

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