turbosubarubrat Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Your going to need to get a different gas tank or figure out how your going to hook up a fuel return line to your current set up. These early ones didn't come with them and your going to need one for the ej swap. Your going to need a fuel injected pump off a loyale if your going for used parts. You could move the carb pump to the rear as a lift pump with a surge tank to feed the high pressure pump in the engine bay or just use a high pressure pump in the rear. Edited October 1, 2017 by turbosubarubrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 It will leak within a year. not menat to have a paper gasket don't use it. Years of experience and hundreds of water pumps replaced are speaking here. Skip the harbor freight and the pnuematic tool. Unless you have a monster compressor, you will be waiting for the tank to refill to keep RPMs. Buy a dremel branded end mill and a dremel to put it in if you don't have one. slow, small passes taking just a mm or less at a time and you will be done with all 8 holes in an hour or 2 tops. Don't be agressive and try to use the entire side of the bit.....just the tip and shave off little arching passes progressively deeper, layer by layer. If you try to use the side of the bit against the hole like a grinder, you will struggle, and go through lots of bits. I've done 3 or 4 flywheels now with the same endmill. It's harder on the tip bearing in the dremel than it is on the bits. What size endmill? My compressor isn't too bad it's a 30 gal and keeps the speed up for the most part. The metal water pump gasket is in don't worry lol. I've done alot of water pumps in my day too and can say I haven't had one leak yet. But this is my first Subaru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 (edited) Pressurewashed the bejesus out of the of the long block, busted out the timing belt, timing covers, test fitted the adapter plate and changed the rear main. Just need to finish the flywheel, open up the crossmember holes, and get the rear block plates off to reseal them. Slap the flywheel and clutch assembly, drop the motor in then start wiring, get a fuel pump, and change fuel lines. Just a small list lol Edited October 1, 2017 by Andymccauley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 Small. Carbide. For a dremel. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/9901-tungsten-carbide-cutter About $17 ussually anywhere you can find dremel tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) Picked up these 15x8s with 4" backspacing today for $50 was gunna get a carbite bit to get the flywheel going but the hardware store was closed already... Edited October 2, 2017 by Andymccauley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrsn Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 If you were local to pdx id say sure why not, come over, but I'm not shipping this dead weight anywhere. I live in North Portland, I can cut them super precisely in about 20mins. I will only charge you 1 burrito or a six pack... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 I live in North Portland, I can cut them super precisely in about 20mins. I will only charge you 1 burrito or a six pack... how? You got a mill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 I live in North Portland, I can cut them super precisely in about 20mins. I will only charge you 1 burrito or a six pack... Pm me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrsn Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 how? You got a mill? yeah, makes it extremely easy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 The second one is always better than the first attempt. But the holes are open and should work just fine for the motor mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 This guy andrsn doing the work with his mill Finished product Thanks again andrsn 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 (edited) So this thing is pretty much ready now, I planned on dropping it in today but then realized I needed to reseal the oil separator plate and wrist pin access plate too and I forgot I needed to get a couple bits for impact driver to get them off... Searched and finally got some at Home Depot, they only had 2 luckily I got them both cuz 1 broke after the 6th screw. But got all that sealed and tight now it's ready to drop in. Edited October 6, 2017 by Andymccauley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Need a engine adapter I build and sell them www.sjrlift.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Need a engine adapter I build and sell them www.sjrlift.com Thanks, already have one though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Wasn't the most enjoyable engine install but it's in after alot of adjusting. Actually fits in there pretty well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Got the legacy throttle cable in today, need to make a spacer between the manifold and the cable bracket and it should be good, removed some material from the plastic mounting point so it would fit in the firewall. After I fab a a spacer it should work great. Started removing the rest of the wiring, the taillight harness is hacked up with alot of wire nuts and other bs that needs repaired. Gunna pull the taillight harness farther out and repair it without pulling it all the way through the rear panel so I don't have to remove the panel, somehow push the legacy harness through the same route and splice those together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Looks good Andy. The EA81 throttle cable will not work? Let me know what alternator belt you use. I ordered my timing belt kit and a whole lot of gaskets, seals sparkplugs for when I pull mine. I am thinking mid Nov. since my wife claimed the spare bathroom remodeling would be first, lol! My 93 legacy is a drivable car so I have been putting a few miles on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 The EA81 throttle cable will not work It does you just have to make a bracket for it to mount correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 It does you just have to make a bracket for it to mount correctly. Good to know, my EA81 cable was in bad shape. The plastic liner was held on there with a house clamp near the firewall and was broken in another spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 I've been wondering about the fuel lines on this thing before I even pulled the EA out and I found a post last night about how the older EA81 cars varied in the fuel supply and return lines. Some only had 2 some had 3 lines. But the return is tiny, almost like the vacuum and return are the same size, I gotta follow lines and double check to make sure I even have 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Got my drive belt from rockauto today, a whole 7 bucks including shipping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 That's the part number I needed. Thanks!! I got two boxes from Rock Auto today myself. Probably be around the end of November before I start my swap. Going to do pretty much like you have. Clean it up real good when I get the 2.2l out. Ordered new seals for cams and crank, front main is leaking on my engine. Also new oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Have a Aisin timing belt kit coming in another box. R9/30 fuel line, clamps for FI and tune up stuff. My donor car is only showing 146k so I am hoping it is good to go. Been driving it back and forth to work. Almost hate to gut it, it drives pretty good. Has a far amount of rust, the Legacy, not my Brat! Following yours and hoping you have very little trouble. Thanks for posting and updating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 (edited) That's the part number I needed. Thanks!! I got two boxes from Rock Auto today myself. Probably be around the end of November before I start my swap. Going to do pretty much like you have. Clean it up real good when I get the 2.2l out. Ordered new seals for cams and crank, front main is leaking on my engine. Also new oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Have a Aisin timing belt kit coming in another box. R9/30 fuel line, clamps for FI and tune up stuff. My donor car is only showing 146k so I am hoping it is good to go. Been driving it back and forth to work. Almost hate to gut it, it drives pretty good. Has a far amount of rust, the Legacy, not my Brat! Following yours and hoping you have very little trouble. Thanks for posting and updating! You should be OK as long as it's not showing symptoms of blown headgaskets I wouldn't worry too much. Mine had all the symptoms. But at 270k it probably should. I still have a list of things to get done, just really tight on money right now so not alot is gunna happen for awhile. Edited October 13, 2017 by Andymccauley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrsn Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 I needed that belt part number too, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymccauley Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 (edited) This is what was all wired into rear taillight harness with some on/off switch as well Got alot done the last few days, modded the torque strut to bolt to the adapter plate. Cut it and threaded the rod to m10x1.25 Started routing all the wiring, gunna have to extend some things but not much. After wrestling things in and out out the raintray holes a couple times, kinda got things to fit, the fuse box and ECU are going on the passenger side. Bolted the header on, I'm missing a stud for some reason though. Got lost in the legacy disassembly. Opened up the passenger side hole to fit the grommet in. Edited October 15, 2017 by Andymccauley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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