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rae houghton

The old "my car won't idle" thread again

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WEll I have gone over the posts on idle problems and lots of info here.

 

May I put in a query?. Somewhere I read on the forum that a vacuum
hose may be the cause of a carburetor not idling correctly (or at all).

Well
my wife came thru the door saying "I have bad news"  the car is
stalling whenever I apply the brakes (and take foot off gas pedal)

Right...so
I take off the air filter top and have her gun the engine while I apply
a clean rag over the open carb and stall it out, I do this a few times... hoping that
some grit from the petrol tank  may have lodged and will get sucked thru and everything will be fine. Worked once in

the past.

No luck.
I adjusted the idling screw...I think I did. IT is the one that had an aluminium plug over it??? Isn't it?

I drilled out that plug a month ago when I had the same problem. Tuned the car (new plugs and adjusted dizzy)
changed the petrol filter today (located in front of the r rear wheel) just to
make sure for the future...but for now I cannot get the carby to idle.

WELL sometimes it idles roughly at a stop....but mostly stalls when I take foot off gas)

 

Some people say take it apart and clean it .. ( I have a mechanics manual and the number of parts noted is incredible.) CAn I take it apart in sections so that not every washer and spring is there to be lost.

 

 

 

What else can I try without taking it apart?. Using a carby kit ...is that the same as a rebuild....? (dumb question but I have to ask)

 

( I have an EA82 engine)

 

Thanks Rae

Edited by rae houghton

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To fix craptachi carbs is simple. Buy a Weber. The Hitachi can never be rebuilt to perform as new. I've done many and it's a joke with the rebuilder as the punch line. A properly tuned Weber will pass emissions with the stock airbox modified to fit it

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Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to buy a Weber.......Not sure where to get the cheapest.

I have a spare carby that I could take apart  (one butterfly flap doesn't work...nor the idle adjust needle)

but coulld, as i say take apart, and look to see if i have the cajones to get it back together.

yes a weber would be good.  can somebody suggest the cheapest place to order on...I live in Australia.

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Can't help ya i Australia but Carbsunlimited.com is who o use to get all my parts. They will ship international. I have a copy of a Weber from webercarbsdirect.com. I suggest NOT buying from them, as they told the prior owner it was made in Spain and it's a generic POS. It does the job but I'm even swapping for a real made in Spain Weber. Hitachi carbs are throw away.

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Check for a vac leak in the brake booster or hose going to it.

 

 

 

+1 Put a vacuum gauge on the brake booster line and get some actual diagnostic data - can't hurt.

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Thanks for the suggestions....I noted on a previous post somewhere on this forum  that somebody had suggested a Carburator SPRAY TO HELP DETECT A VACUUM LEAK.   the boys at Car Bits didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Can anyone clarify this product?


            Click to view larger image
  
    
                   
      
    
                                 i guess this is the item I am looking for ???      

Details about  K731 Conversion Kit Weber carb 32/36 DGEV / Subaru Fits OHC ENG. W/ 2BBL Hitachi

 

Only $550 AUD (incl postage from USA)

 

But Loyale Turbo 2.7 said the airfilter is too high and needs replacing as does the manifold adapter.

Edited by rae houghton

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thanks Dave T for your reply. Yes I saw that product on the shelf, and wondered if that would be useful, but , as the person behind the counter could not see how any product could work as a vacuum leak would suck in the product, he obviously did not know how to use the product to visually inspect for a vacuum leak.

 

Well, I have to admit ignorance, because that thought had also occurred to me. How to use any product to "SEE" where the leak is (if there is one)

 If you or anyone can point out how to use it for this procedure I will no doubt feel pretty dumb.....but every time I work on my car I feel rather dumb. Yes I learn each time, but never feel very confident. So , without showing any more ignorance....giving some instructions here would be very welcome. Thanks again for your interest and your reply.

( On an aside) I see that Jezek is home in the Honduras again. I wonder how many US members he may have visited while in USA.

I have checked on that adapter he mention for bolting Weber to manifold.  Another 80$ if purchased in Australia....and then there is the replacement filter for the Weber.

Boy would I like to get this carby working properly without putting out all that cash. (I am a pensioner....and not on a very good wicket unfortunately....the Aussie gov't here  for every dollar you make over 40$ per week, they reduce your pension 50cts on each dollar  (make 140$ and you lose 50$ off your pension).  tough to make ends meet here. So finding a cheap solution is very helpful.

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Don't worry about what you haven't learned yet, how else do you learn, but by asking?

Carburetor cleaner is combustible.   If for example, your car isn't getting fuel, you can verify the rest of the engine is working by spraying it in the intake, and trying to start it.  It will run for a few seconds from a 1 to 2 second spray into the intake, if everything else is ok.

 

I've used it as a kinder starting aid for Diesel engines.  Starting ether is extremely volatile.  Carburetor cleaner seems to be somewhere in between gasoline, and ether.

 

To test for vacuum leaks, get the car running, at idle, warmed up.  Spray various places - hose connections, mating parts where a gasket might be leaking, etc.  IF there is a leak, the extra fuel will usually raise the RPM or smooth roughness.

 

With a good sealed working system, the spray should have no effect.

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