milty60 Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Put new brake pads on sons car Sunday and noticed backing plate is so rotted it is not holding brake caliper bracket/caliper firmly and squarely in place - so caliper bracket rubs against rotor off and on. RockAuto sells back pair for $78.00 Subaru online $110 for one. Wonder if junk yard had a good one if I could do better on $$$ - assume junk yard would sell entire knuckle hub assembly versus backing plate only. If I get plate only I am trying to visualize - swap out - will I need some sort of puller to separate knuckle and hub to get at backing plate and then press hub back into knuckle? Any thoughts? , past experience? Milty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yeah swapping the backing plate is a wheel bearing job. The bearing will not survive if the hub is pulled out. Junkyard a whole knuckle. Get the axle too in case his wont come out of the hub. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 rip the most cancerous part off and bend the rest out of the way. it’s possible, but I’ve never come across any debilitating backing plate issues. I’ve also never seen the magic combination of a northeast vehicle in showroom condition with only one or three rust issues, each worth addressing to FSM standards. the ones I see that bad have other issues that are going to be more problematic in time than the backing plates. I guess when I do find that unicorn I’ll take care of it proper. Www.car-part.com and buy one from a rust free area. South or west. What year and side rear do you need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milty60 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 Back Left drivers side 1996 Legacy L AT 4WD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 oh yeah that lower lateral bolt to remove the rear hub is going to be insanely rust welded in place, those things shear off like it snows up north. try to get the entire arms with it so you don't need to deal with that bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 oh yeah that lower lateral bolt to remove the rear hub is going to be insanely rust welded in place, those things shear off like it snows up north. try to get the entire arms with it so you don't need to deal with that bolt. Yeah that's going to be a bear. I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 03 Forester and bit the bullet to buy new knuckles, bearings, lateral link bolts and bushings. It wasn't the cheapest way to go but it worked for me. I replaced the Brake backing plates as well. I get my parts at dealer cost + 10% so it wasn't as bad as paying retail. I didn't have a lift or an impact so I just planned on changing everything and it worked for me. Since mine were drum brakes I just replaced the backing plates. My 98 OBW with rear disks had badly rusted backing plates with holes so leaving it alone is an option too. Just depends on how you want to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 rip the most cancerous part off and bend the rest out of the way. it’s possible, but I’ve never come across any debilitating backing plate issues. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7103992&cc=1357310&jsn=9 The caliper bracket bolts to the backing plate, so ripping it off isn't a viable option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milty60 Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 Thanks for all the advice - I still need to do this but have some time now - the backing plate is rotted but it was not the cause of the noise my son and I heard - opposite side back brake - loud humming vibrating noise - mostly on right turns or moving right - if I applied slight brake pedal pressure noise stopped - I had put new pads on a couple of days ago - correct pads but different manufacturer - old ones - the braking material was flat and straight across the entire pad - new ones at last half inch at both ends the pad angled down - I put the old pads on - scrapped the rotor a little bit for a rust ridge - noise gone. Milty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7103992&cc=1357310&jsn=9 The caliper bracket bolts to the backing plate, so ripping it off isn't a viable option. on I only meant the localized cancerous flimsy part that’s flopping into the rotor, not the entire backing plate. Only the part at the OD of the rotor will get paper thin and want to wander or flap (it gets so thin) into the rotor. Just rip/cut that part out. I’ve done it, snip it for a minute and done. he found his issue, easy fix for the win ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I had an Impreza Outback Sport from northern PA where the backing plates crumbled apart in my hand. Just removed the bad parts of rust and bent the rest of it away from rubbing against the rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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