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EA82 Coolant leak from intake manifold

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I am trying to solve coolant leaks on the passenger side head of a 93 Loyale.  Before dismantling, I saw coolant on the top of the head from the intake gasket when I pressurized to cooling system - engine off.  There was also coolant coming out (slowly) from the rear cylinder exhaust port.  It had leaked into and around the exhaust pipe rusting the bolts.  Now I have pulled the head looking for issues inside.  The head gasket looks fine but the top row of head bolts are rusty.  Probably from the intake leak on the top of the head.  Anything else to look for?  I hope the head isn't cracked.  Could the intake leak cause all this?  (I'll try to attach pictures or link to my gallery)

 

This is a JDM engine.  The EGR pipe routes to a cannister that isn't connected to anything on the other side (just plugged).  Is that the best thing to do?post-70622-0-12827300-1516078529_thumb.jpgpost-70622-0-95656200-1516078543_thumb.jpgpost-70622-0-30932600-1516078577_thumb.jpg

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Was it overheated?

 

Why are the head bolts in the head?

 

I've had one head crack in the exhaust port.  It was on an engine that got run low on coolant and was the worst overheat I ever had.  It didn't crack for a few years after the incident.  May or may not be related.

 

Top center head bolts will get rusted by a coolant leak from the intake manifold, via it's bolts.  the holes intersect.

The others, it was probably leaking via the head gasket into the bolt holes.

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look carefully in the exhaust port for cracks at the end of the dividing ridge where it meets the walls.

 

Common crack area on a turbo engine, not so common on NA.

 

FWIW, That pipe off the exhaust is not the EGR.....it's from teh old Air Suction system for the exhaust.  Blocked off is fine.

 

EGR is short 90 deg. bent pipe from top of cyl head, #3 cyl to the intake.

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Thanks for the replies. I'll look closely for cracks.

I don't know if it got overheated since I recently bought it as the 3rd owner.  The previous owner just had it for a few months to help a friend sell it.  He replaced the water pump and radiator so it wouldn't surprise me if it did overheat at one time.  Not doing it now.

I left the head bolts in the head so I wouldn't lose them or get them mixed up.  I plan to clean them up and put them back in the same spot.  (I'm not looking for long life or heavy use where replacement would be a good idea.)  The bolts came out cleanly and with appropriate torque.

Thanks for the info on the EGR and Air Suction.

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What's the go with the area between the valves on the top combustion chamber in the second pic?

 

That doesn't look right to me...

 

Any cylinders drop a pile of coolant when you removed the head?

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Edited by el_freddo

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A thin / not open crack between the valves is very common. There was a tsb about them years ago. Many of mine have them, no problem.

 

As you separate the head from the block, coolant falls out if the passages, some typically falls into the cylinders.

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I bought a cylinder head for my 93 Loyale and noticed that the hole for the egr pipe isn't in the head that I bought. Can I block off the egr hole into the intake manifold without causing the car to run poorly?

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You can try it.  The EGR is used to reduce the combustion temperature, emissions control.
Some have blocked or disabled them.  When the EGR solenoid has failed on mine, [leaving the EGR valve closed = same as blocking] I never noticed any change in drive ability.  YMMV

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I am either going to block the intake or was thinking of having the head drilled out where the egr pipe should go so that it would be like the original. I'm wondering if the heads are identical so that if it was drilled and threaded that it would be just like the original head?

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EGRs are avoided and blocked off all the time on EJs, I’ve done it, I doubt it matters on EA82s, I think I’ve done an EA82 once years ago as well.

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As far as I know, the heads are the same, except for the egr port. I never swapped one, or examined or tested the idea.

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Take the metal EGR pipe off, cut it off about 3 inches from where it threads into the valve, hammer the cut end flat, fold it over, and hammer the fold flat. Done

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When mine was leaking it did look like the head but was a combination of the driver side intake seal and the oring on the pipe that plugs in above the water pump. It would run down all over the bottom which due to so much oil on everything made it hard to figure out where it was coming from.

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