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mkoch

84 4wd Pulling engine tomorrow, replacing clutch, what else?

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I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow.

 

I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?

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All coolant hoses, including those little painful ones around the intake manifold.

 

If the sump gasket looks like it's leaking resealable the oil pump - and remove the crank pulley to do this! Don't be lazy as it'll cost you an oil pump ;)

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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Might be your rear main.... could also be a transmission shaft seal. Has your clutch been slipping at all? With the engine out I would replace the following:

 

  • Rear main (if it needs it, if you take the clutch off and it looks clean, just leave it alone) 
  • Reseal the oil pump (kits on eBay run for about $12... its well worth it and you will notice an increase in oil pressure if its never been done)
  • Install new coolant hoses all the way around. 
  • Install a new water pump if it hasn't been done in the last five years... they are only about $20 for a new one.
  • Tune up your valves 
  • Reseal your oil pan. I would recommend buying a sheet of graphite gasket material and using that instead of the cork ones. Also coat both sides of the gasket before installation 
  • Reseal the valve covers 

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Thank you Sapper157!

 

 

Where should I buy the small coolant hoses, graphite gasket material, valve cover gaskets?

 

Also, I have not been able to find the valve adjustment tool for the EA81.

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Oh, and the clutch was slipping. I thought it was a worn clutch

Edited by mkoch

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Dopn't bother with cork or any type of oil pan gasket.

 

Just clean it well and use "The Right Stuff" RTV to seal it will work better than any gasket.

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Dopn't bother with cork or any type of oil pan gasket.

 

Just clean it well and use "The Right Stuff" RTV to seal it will work better than any gasket.

I have not had good experiences using just RTV on the oil pan gasket... but I had great success with the graphite + RTV gasket. i guess I could have done something wrong, but no matter how clean I got the sealing surface I would always have leaks at the oil pan gasket a few weeks later.

You dont need the valve adjustment tool... just use a set of feeler gauges. 

You can get the hoses and valve cover gaskets on rockauto or at just about any autoparts store. You can get the gasket material on ebay for like $15. I would not use just rtv on the valve covers... In case you need to make more adjustments down the road. although I have coated the cork gaskets with a thin layer of RTV before and it sealed it quite well. 

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Do not pass by this opportunity to replace the clutch release bearing!!You will hate yourself if it makes noise when you put it all back together!!(I have been mad at myself for about two years now!!) If it makes ANY noise when you spin it by hand,REPLACE it !!

As for the oil pan gasket....My machine shop guy (old guy..they're the best!) told me to use LACQUER thinner to clean the surfaces of the head and block because it leaves NO residue behind.Now I use Lacquer thinner for ANY sealing surface prep...It does help to go by those stupid instructions like wait five minutes....snug all bolts.......tighten to SPEC..etc...The last few times I have done a reseal(85 gl10 wagon ,93 Legacy ,and 05 Nissan Sentra 1.8,the RTV stuff has proven to be problem free.

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