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Hey Everyone

 

This board has been key for me over the years - but I fear I face my most daunting challenge yet!  I have left the beautiful regulation-free confines of Minnesota/Florida and will now reside permanently in NY.  So almost 17 year after purchase - I face my First Inspection!  

 

I bought my 2002 Outback Sport in August 2001 and have been religious about changing fluids and all normal maintenance.  Now I'll admit, my CEL has been on for ages, but have always done obvious repairs as they arise.  So of course I ignored the CEL.  I have 143,000 miles and if I had stayed in Florida I would have expected to drive it another 5 years minimum but this Spring I will have to get registered in NY.  This is particularly true now -  since I will only be driving locally and will likely put a couple of thousand miles per year going forward.  Guess I am reverse snowbird.

 

I purchased a nice Bluetooth Scanner from Lemur (Blue Driver OBD2) and not surprisingly I had quite a few codes.  I will preface this to say I have replaced the catalytic converters and O2 Sensors more than once but knew I would be seeing the P0420 Code for sure.

 

Well the scanner threw 8 Codes:

• P0327: Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1 or Single Sensor
• P1507: Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)
• P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
• P0171: System Too Lean Bank 1
• P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1
• P0065: Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance

 

• P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
 
Yeah I know, lotsa codes....  So I cleared the codes once and the CEL came back on after about 50 miles (throwing the P0113 Code).
I have to study up on the Scanner to better understand the 'reset stage' each Monitor is at - after clearing the codes.
I understand there are like 8 Inspection Monitor Categories(?) and they take a while to recalibrate....just trying to get a handle on how big my task is going forward. 
Anyway, just I started my process. 
 
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated as usual.....
 
Peter
 
(Long Beach NY)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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From another post

 

Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time:

1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal.

2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes.

3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum.

4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary.

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Of course, replace the intake temp sensor immediately.  That should be obvious.  I'm surprised that the car runs OK with a defective sensor.  Your car doesn't have a MAF.  So the computer calculates the air flow based on the rpms temp and pressure.

 

To reassure the OP, I have an 02 and I don't get codes but once in a few years so he should be able to clear them and get approval.

 

My sympathies with having to live in New York state.  But aside from taxes, there are wonderful places to live there and I hope the OP is lucky enough to live in one of them.

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In NY an 02 can only have one monitor not ready and have no check engine light.

As suggested, replace the air temp sensor.

Clean the Idle valve ( search).

Check for any exhaust leaks.

Change your plugs if not done recently.

After the repairs, clear and see what codes return.

You may have to replace the front o2 sensor.

 

Advise

 

O.

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Will you need a Metro inspection, or can you get away with a regular inspection?  Metro inspection is very similar to California and I fear you may not get it good enough to pass without a lot of work/ expense.

I don't know where LI falls but NYC needs/ is where the Metro designation originated

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Thanks for the feedback guys. 

 

I will get it inspected somewhere locally (Long Island) but - Geesh - I assumed inspection thresholds were at the 'State' level. 

I'm technically not in the city but certainly within the 'metro' area.  

 

Not sure where I should draw the line money wise......I was not a big fan of the Gubmint' to begin with - this ain't helping.

 

I was looking at Rockauto for the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor  (IAT/MAP)

 

They had two:

 

BECK/ARNLEY 1581348 - $47

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3764595&cc=1378751&jsn=672&jsn=672

 

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AS185 - $87

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=657018&cc=1378751&jsn=671

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Find out by looking at local cars if the inspection sticker says " Metro "

 

They use a Dyno/ sniffer test in Metro inspection stations.. LI may or may not be. Part of Suffolk county is exempt if I remember right.. If you can prove $450 spent in correcting issues After you fail an inspection, you can get a waiver for the year. But it's not a permanent exemption

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Just found another IAT Sensor for cheaper:

 

Any reason to pay up?  This one is $17.

 

https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Impreza/Replacement/IAT_Sensor/2002/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/REPS315201.html

 

They fail so rarely I wouldn't buy new OEM or those expensive aftermarkets, I'd go with used OEM or that one you just listed.

I would have given them away when I've had scrap EJ's as they're worthless with zero demand.  Get two of them, one to replace and have a back up.  

 

They don't fail much so I haven't seen enough to say anything about trends or longevity but that being said the cheap $7 ebay knock sensors have fared well for years, so I wouldn't hesitate to try an IAT for that cheap on what is otherwise a benign part. 

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