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P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

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Patient: 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback AT

 

Subjective: Turn key, hear click, but starter does not engage. Can try several times and it will finally turn over.

 

Objective: CEL of P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Code cleared but returned 200 miles later.

 

Assessment: The crankshaft sensor is bad vs wiring harness issue.

 

Plan: Remove crankshaft sensor and use a digital multimeter to check the resistance. Does anyone know what the normal range is?

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Needs starter contacts first.

Plug on the sensor might be loose or have corrosion or dirt in the terminals. Possibly cracked insulation on the wires near the plug.

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These are 2 unrelated problems.

Agree with Fairfax, fix the starter first.


Then deal with the P0335, and could well be faulty insulation or connector contacts.

Try deleting the P0335 CEL, and see if it comes back.

Do you get any driveability symptoms?

A clean signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor is needed for the engine to keep running.  If it fails, the engine will stop.

So if it is on the way out, it needs replacing ASAP.

Edited by forester2002s

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These are 2 unrelated problems.

 

Agree with Fairfax, fix the starter first.

 

Then deal with the P0335, and could well be faulty insulation or connector contacts.

Try deleting the P0335 CEL, and see if it comes back.

Do you get any driveability symptoms?

A clean signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor is needed for the engine to keep running.  If it fails, the engine will stop.

So if it is on the way out, it needs replacing ASAP.

Did you actually read my post? Please go back and actually do so. Thank you.

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OK I see that you have already tried deleting the CEL, and that it came back.

 

I get the feeling that you don't want my input.  Fair enough.

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Started clicks? Does not spin? Needs starter contacts.

 

"No crank" vs "no start" are two entirely different animals. The way you've described it, sounds like you have a no crank situation.

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If starter clicks but doesn't spin common issue is contacts in the solenoid.

 

http://beergarage.com/subystarter.aspx

 

I had to do the start signal bypass relay mod on my 99 to get it to start consistently.

 

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=602710&postcount=4

 

Could also be the start inhibit relay if your car is equipped with one.

 

Crankshaft Position Sensor resistance range is between 1 and 4 kΩ?

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Installed a new sensor from Advance earlier today but cleared the code before installing. The electrical connector looked good upon inspection. With the new sensor in I had to try 10-15 times before the starter engaged and the CEL P0335 was back on. Cleared the code and took a drive. Parked and did some shopping then tried to turn it on again where I repeated the 10-15 key turns/clicks before the starter engaged. CEL P0335 was back on. Did happened another 3 times- cleared code, drove for a while, parked, 10-15 key turns/clicks before starter engaged, CEL P0335 back on.

 

Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

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Get new copper contacts for the starter solenoid.  They're not expensive and are relatively easy to replace.

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The P0335 and not starting issue are not related.

 

Edit.  The P0335 code is a symptom not the cause.  GD explains it well in a later post.  The point I was trying to make is that the P0335 code was not the problem and was not causing your no crank issue.  Having experienced this issue myself (and replacing a number of parts) I stumbled upon the relay mod and once installed addressed the intermittent no crank issue.  Need to use a large enough wire (12 Ga) and a fuse from the battery post for safety.

Edited by Mike104

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Get new copper contacts for the starter solenoid.  They're not expensive and are relatively easy to replace.

This is a 3 month old starter. I seriously doubt the contacts are yet worn.

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The P0335 and not starting issue are not related

I have searched and it appears many others have had the same problem as I. Every time the vehicle fails to start the P0335 CEL comes on leads me to believe there is a relationship. Why else would the CEL continue to come on after changing the sensor?

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A 3-month old starter, eh?  Where did you get it?  New or rebuilt?

Advance. I put it in because the same issue (turn key 10-15 times, hear click, finally starts) was happening to the old starter. It worked fine a few months but now it's occurring again concurrent with the aforementioned CEL.

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Have you checked the timing?

 

O.

Timing is good. This vehicle has a transplanted EJ22 in it.

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Download the FSM.as previously suggested.

There seems to be a wiring issue with the sensor.

There is a troubleshooting section under each DTC.

Follow suggestions.

 

O.

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This is easy, there's a short: 

battery, battery terminals, starter/ground cable, starter connections.

time for basic multimeter tests from battery, terminals, clamps, grounds, starter.

 

check wiring of any related parts you've previously replaced - starter and any other related components recently worked on.  a cursory search shows you replaced the ignition switch or something - check connections/fasteners there.

 

as stated - the click-click-click and CEL are not related.

CEL's are often artifacts of another issue rather than indicating any fault with that component.  your cause and effect is backwards.  the CEL isn't causing the starter issue - the starter issue is causing the CEL.  The short, or current draw of the starter, may dirty up the sensor signals.  or the abrupt "movements" of the starter are confusing the ECU.

 

if you have your original starter i'd keep it and replace the contacts.  aftermarket replacement starters fail all the time, a friends new Advance Auto starter failed within a month or two last year.  happens all the time.  you might get lucky, but the failure rates are much higher than OEM.

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This is a 3 month old starter. I seriously doubt the contacts are yet worn.

Does it say DENSO on the sticker on the starter? If No, that's the problem.

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The CEL ie because the ECU is getting the starter signal, but the starter isn't turning. Thus the ECU assumes the crank sensor must be bad and throws a code. The crank sensor is not bad nor has it ever been bad. You are troubleshooting without understanding how any of this works.

 

If the starter was a cheapo from a parts store - that's your problem. If it was a quality starter like dealer new, dealer reman, or a denso reman then you need to install a relay in the crank circuit to apply full battery current to the starter solenoid.

 

GD

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The CEL ie because the ECU is getting the starter signal, but the starter isn't turning. Thus the ECU assumes the crank sensor must be bad and throws a code. The crank sensor is not bad nor has it ever been bad. You are troubleshooting without understanding how any of this works.

 

If the starter was a cheapo from a parts store - that's your problem. If it was a quality starter like dealer new, dealer reman, or a denso reman then you need to install a relay in the crank circuit to apply full battery current to the starter solenoid.

 

GD

Dear GD,

Can you walk me through how to do the crank circuit to the starter solenoid? BTW, remember the sandblaster you got sent a bunch of years ago? I was glad to contribute to that gift.

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For sure - you just get a standard Bosch style relay and harness from the parts store. The relay will be labeled per this diagram. Hook it up just as shows here:

 

StarterRelay_r.jpg

 

GD

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I did the same mod but ran a 12 Ga wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to Pin 30 on the relay (with a 30 Amp inline fuse).  The above one uses less wire.  

 

Post #8 above has a link to the same mod.

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