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Finding different length sway bars for lifted cars is veeeery hard unless you wanna spend the big bucks at primitive. Was wondering what the consequence of using this style link in the front would be. The newer models use them, so I figure the idea can’t be that janky.

 

sway-bar-link.jpg

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As long as the link is there it doesn't make much difference what it is.  I'm sure the newer styles would work.

 

Same length side to side and strong.  

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For $130..

You get what you pay for. But either way, like was said above, if it fits, it doesn't matter what it is.

Edited by bratman18

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You get what you pay for. But either way, like was said above, if it fits, it doesn't matter what it is.

Not trying to say ADF isn’t worth it, but I’m in college so $130 is a lot to me.

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Not trying to say ADF isn’t worth it, but I’m in college so $130 is a lot to me.

I hear ya for sure

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Why would you need longer links?  The swaybar is mounted to the engine crossmember, so it drops with the lift.

 

I've never seen anyone need to remove or alter the front swaybar.

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Why would you need longer links? The swaybar is mounted to the engine crossmember, so it drops with the lift.

 

I've never seen anyone need to remove or alter the front swaybar.

Seems that the downward angle reduces the effectiveness of the sway bars, since my rear one definitely doesn’t do the job anymore. A longer link would bring it back to stock angle. My car doesn’t have spacers, just got 05 FXT struts and springs Edited by comatosellama

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Seems that the downward angle reduces the effectiveness of the sway bars, since my rear one definitely doesn’t do the job anymore. A longer link would bring it back to stock angle. My car doesn’t have spacers, just got 05 FXT struts and springs

 

doesn't make a damn bit of difference.  The sway bar operates on the principal of twist placed on the bar from wheels at uneven position.  Nothing about the way the bar operates depends on a link of any excact length, just that they both be attached with an equal link.

 

Unless you feel like it's so short that you are losing down travel, which shouldn't with stock Fozzy struts.  Hundreds of folks have done the OB/FOR strut swap/lift without needing new front links.  I never have.

 

the rear swaybar is mounted to the body, not the subframe.  On Outbacks and Foresters they are mounted lower on a dropped bracket.  So that's why the rear didn't work as well.  The links are not long enough and limit the "droop" of the rear wheels.  Grab a mount bracket set from a Forester or 96-99 Outback.

 

Personally I just remove the rear swaybar on most cars I do lifts on.  The rear articulation improves so much.  With teh bar on it's to east to get "crossed up" diagonally over an obstacle or staggered dips in a trail.  with open diffs, that mean you are not moving.

 

Body roll increases, but that happens anyway just from the lift......If you want it to handle like it's on rails, don't lift it.

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Not looking for rails, just looking to settle the car down, if I brake mid corner it feels like I’m gonna flip

 

you're not

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Not looking for rails, just looking to settle the car down, if I brake mid corner it feels like I’m gonna flip

 

you shouldnt be braking mid-corner anyway... brake BEFORE the corner/curve, then gradually increase speed as you go through the corner/curve.

 

just sayin... :D

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you shouldnt be braking mid-corner anyway... brake BEFORE the corner/curve, then gradually increase speed as you go through the corner/curve.

 

just sayin... :D

+1

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+1

Sometimes you gotta though, and I’d rather not feel like I’m gonna die if I need to do some emergency driving. I’ve got a 97 outback swaybar on the way, hopefully that’ll tighten it up Edited by comatosellama

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why you need that rear sway bar anyway ? i drive without it after lift with better handling then i had with sway bar. at least for me this is better way to feel car on road. 

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Yeah, to be honest,I don't run a rear sway bar on any of my lifted cars and I'm lifted more than forester struts. You won't roll it over. It just has more body roll.

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for just 2'' lift spacers and old struts with old oem spring i dont feel any discomfort or more roll there. with new harder springs you can eliminate both sway bars and drive just fine. 

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Sometimes you gotta though, and I’d rather not feel like I’m gonna die if I need to do some emergency driving. I’ve got a 97 outback swaybar on the way, hopefully that’ll tighten it up

 

Yeah that's gonna be exactly the same bar as the one you've got.

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Yes diameter is different but it is the same exact profile, length, shape.

 

Won't change how it hooks up to the links at all unless it's a model new enough to us the ball-pivot links, which I don't think 98 would be.

 

At any rate, you don't need longer links.  

 

trying to match handling of a brand new top of the line car with your 25 year old base model may be difficult.  

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Yes diameter is different but it is the same exact profile, length, shape.

 

Won't change how it hooks up to the links at all unless it's a model new enough to us the ball-pivot links, which I don't think 98 would be.

 

At any rate, you don't need longer links.

 

trying to match handling of a brand new top of the line car with your 25 year old base model may be difficult.

Thicker=less body roll= what I’m goin for. Maybe it’s just me but I can’t stand the feeling of my rear end floating in a corner. Maybe I just need to put it back down for the summer. Used to handle very similar to a new mazda3 hatch, now it’s like an f150.

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Yes diameter is different but it is the same exact profile, length, shape.

 

Won't change how it hooks up to the links at all unless it's a model new enough to us the ball-pivot links, which I don't think 98 would be.

 

At any rate, you don't need longer links.

 

trying to match handling of a brand new top of the line car with your 25 year old base model may be difficult.

And this just leaves me wondering, is ADF selling snake oil with the adjustable links?

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Thicker=less body roll= what I’m goin for. Maybe it’s just me but I can’t stand the feeling of my rear end floating in a corner. Maybe I just need to put it back down for the summer. Used to handle very similar to a new mazda3 hatch, now it’s like an f150.

 

You're rear swaybar may be limiting the downtravel (since rear is bolted to body, not subframe, so doesn't drop with the lift like front does)  Like I said, if you want to keep the rear sway, get the dropped brackets from an Outback or Forester

 

And then learn how to drive a bit different.  Brake before corner, nuetral throttle on entry, punch the gas out.....this will help keep the weight shifted to the back through the corner, instead of lurching forward and lifting the back end so much.

 

Watch these guys........now THAT's body roll.  ---www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYRQzarBOzo---   Might have to copy and paste without the dashes.  Can't get the forum to accept this as a link???

Edited by Gloyale

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