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Hey all.

Just the other day I got my 95 Legacy wagon back from my mechanic

I had him do the ultimate timing service.
The thing is when i bought the car it had 145K on it now it has 180K,

it came with service records and the only thing referring to timing belt

was at about 60K it had the water pump sieze or a pulley so Subaru replaced

the water pump the belt and ONE pulley. So I've been leary about getting

this job done for a long time finally got all  the parts and ability to not have

my car for 4 days, which it ended up taking with my having to get last

minute parts.

 

Here's what I had replaced.

 

Aisin Timing kit:

OEM belt Mitsuboshi
Aisin Water pump

4 pulleys/gear

Tensioner

Water pump gasket

Thermostat gasket

 

From Subaru:
Thermostat

2 Camshaft oil seals

1 Main crankshft seal

New radiator cap

 

New Radiator (Denso)
old one had small leak

 

All cooling system hoses & clamps

Coolant

Oil & Filter

Thermostat inlet housing

 

NGK Spark plugs

NGK Wires

Air filter

PCV Valve

Fuel filter and hoses

Alternator and A/C belts

 

I have to say man does it run nice or maybe its the self satisfaction

of all the years of learning what actually goes into a timing belt

replacement that makes me love it so much. I think it was only running on 2-3

cylinders the plugs were probably so old.

BTW anyone in Houston or texas who wishes to travel here to get

theirs done PM me my mechnic did an excellent job and very affordable.

'97

:)

Edited by 1997reduxe
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Why not the cam support o-ring and the distributor cover o-ring?

 

Be very wary of any PCV valve not from Subaru. They eat engines.

 

Sounds pretty normal to me. Not exactly "ultimate". Though at that mileage it might have been smart to just do the HG's. We see them fail around 250k if not sooner.

 

GD

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Thank you for the extras thats kinda why i posted it.

I will change the pcv valve out again then thanks.

It was amazing the old one still functioned.

I only meant ultimate as in when i first started

learning about the job i used to read here where people refer to

buying their TB kits on ebay and frankly lots of them have "everything"

but not very good parts or pulleys etc.

Im certainly not in the USMB mechanic class just a user. :)

But I have learned a lot here some of it fro you GD.

The other thing I thought about was the oil filler or stick o-ring i forget which.

Thanks again

Dan

Edited by 1997reduxe
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I love my '95 Legacy for the fact it's been very reliable despite higher mileage like yours, and they are very easy to not only maintain, but parts are super affordable too. Although, up here, the rusts eats everything important on the body like an aggressive flesh eating bacteria, while the engine just keeps running.

 

Are there a lot Subarus from '95 to '96 floating around down there with solid bodies?

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Yes including my old girlfriend’s which was where I found out about Subes this is I think my fifth one. The 95 is awesome also because it is a non interference, this one I completely lucked out on I got it from a lawyer who had foot problems and couldn’t drive a manual anymore. I was worried about the whine in the trans till I changed the gear oil. That’s some of the joy for me right now I needed a reliable car to move with etc, and I lucked into it by chance.

I used to live most of my life in pa, so I know the rust scene, and yes there are amazing numbers of cars oh yeah the 90s are dwindling but you know this weather they last. There are lots of 2000s era ones and also I have a friend who was going to buy a Cherokee and I looked at it on CL and I said hell no and saw one in Austin that was amazingly clean.

All it takes is some searching. ❤️

Happy Easter!!

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  • 11 months later...
2 hours ago, 1997reduxe said:

Also adding replace all injectors since now there’s a place I found in California on eBay selling four refurbished and matched ones for 100. 

Unless you have reason to suspect an injector has failed, it's not really necessary.  Not on an N/A car anyhow.

They very rarely fail.  "rebuilt" likely just means cleaned and flow tested.  I doubt the coils and needle valves are serviced/replaced.  

So basically run some fuel cleaner through it and you've done the same thing and saved $95.

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Well yeah but since my concept of the timing belt change being as comprehensive as possible was so you didn’t have to do anything again for as long as possible, that’s why I included it. 

My 95 I bought from a guy was really great and had all maintenance records back to the original owner, I was the third. 

But when I went through them I found that the water pump or a tb pulley had failed at about 65k, and the subaru dealer they took it to replaced the water pump, the belt, thermostat, and ONE pulley. I mean who would do that, when they only charged 10 for the pulley? Why not just do them all? So I inherited at 140k a car with one newer pulley etc. 

my point is you have to do so much work taking off the front of the engine to do the tb, you might as well just replace everything with best parts aisin kit etc, and then not worry for another 100k.

the only other thing I’ve not done is the oil pump, I’d do that too.

but I actually do believe they replace the coils and gaskets. There’s a whole industry now of refurbished fuel parts. I wish I had done it then I did have one fail on me. 

Just ideas. Nothing hard and fast.

’97

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I wouldn't worry about the oil pump. If curious or concerned about oil pressure, remove the stock dummy light sensor and install an aftermarket sensor there. Most units come with brass adapters that can be cobbled together to fit the stock threads and attach the new unit.

I ran a mechanical gauge with an upgraded copper line, and sleeved the entire line in a small vacuum hose to protect it and prevent hard bends, and can view oil pressure w/o issue. Cold starts with 10w 30, idle is around 70-75, warmed up idle is around 10-12. Can run an electrical unit to avoid the possibility of oil entering the car (mechanical).

The oil pump cover WAS pulled however when the timing belt was changed. IIRC, the pump cogs were pulled too. I used oven cleaner and on the cogs and cover, and degreased the oil passages elsewhere. With exception of minor varnish, it was pretty clean throughout. A poor history of oil changes or mostly conventional oil with poor services however might have a different result.

It is easy to get at everything when the timing is is already out. I think I used anaerobic sealant to put everything back as everything has tight clearances and it eliminates the possibility of RTV breaking off and clogging a oil passage.

 

Run a gauge and see where the oil pressure is at. If it's similar or better than mine, wouldn't be too concerned. I think mine is around 197k miles atm. Haven't looked recently.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Insufficient spring tension and poor seal would be my guess. Leading to the valve being open under manifold vacuum and crankcase pressure conditions when it should be closed. I have not studied it in detail - all I can tell you is that old/worn factory or aftermarket PCV valves WILL cause extreme oil consumption. This has been a constant through all the EJ series of engines. 

GD

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