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Subaru Scott

UUUuuummmmm... SUPER cheap EA81 Y-pipes!

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Pretty sure this has GOT to be a mistake, but I have one on the way, and thinking about a 2nd just because why not.

 

https://autoplicity.com/120579-walker-exhaust-15671-universal-fit-converters

 

I ordered mine off ebay, and the ad disappeared immediately from there. Then, I googled the part number, and this is the same company that was selling on ebay. 

 

I mean, it's not anything special, but for 35 BUCKS SHIPPED, it'll get you by in hard times (or if you're still not ready to EJ swap, but your exhaust is falling off the car  :brow: )

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That's a hell of a price. Cheap for just the pipes! One little thing.... They seem to be missing the flange on the drivers side piece. It shows it as flared. That ain't gonna work. lol Hopefully it's wrong. Let us know when it shows. If it is flanged, that's one helluva cheap cat delete kit!

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I believe the flanges are floating. That is, they are separate from the pipe and just hold the flared-out end of the pipe against the gasket.

 

Which is even better because you can use the alternate holes on the head if the regular ones are stripped.

 

It's also good if you need to change the angle of the pipe going back to the collector if you wanted to... (ahem) run them into a straight Y... for off-road purposes only, of course.

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Those look cheap, and I'm not talking price either.

 

 

Oh, you bet they are.

 

But all the other no-name ultra cheapies on ebay are nearly $200. And this is a Walker.

 

Just looking for something to get me by for awhile, till I EJ swap or at least get everything I need to weld up a stainless header.

 

Using it as my daily right now, and it's patched-up and loud.

 

Not the kind of loud that's cool either. More like a fart through a wet swimsuit.

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I'll be curious what you're impressions are after you receive this. I need a new exhaust piece bad and having the ability for the fastener to be floating so I can use the other holes on the other bolt holes would be nice. Found out the hard way that removing all those spacers for the EGR and afterburner crap end up bringing my y pipe in so that it almost rubs on the frame and makes it hard to bolt down without stripping out the threads on the head. 

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Um.. so you're saying this isn't an exhaust kit, but instead is a carb rebuild kit? Did I miss something?

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Um.. so you're saying this isn't an exhaust kit, but instead is a carb rebuild kit? Did I miss something?

Well, they sent me a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust kit.  I did order from the link in the original post.  Walker product  #15671 is a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust y pipe.    It looks like somebody entered some incorrect information on the autoplicity web site.  

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 makes it hard to bolt down without stripping out the threads on the head. 

 

this is why you install studs properly into the head, then use a nut on the stud to tighten.  Bolts instead of exhaust studs = NO

 

with a stud installed the force is spread to ALL of the aluminum threads, not placed on one or two at a time as a bolt turns into the head.  And no rotational friction is applied to aluminum threads as the force increases.  It's applied to the steel threads of the stud instead.

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Well, they sent me a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust kit.  I did order from the link in the original post.  Walker product  #15671 is a carb rebuild kit, not an exhaust y pipe.    It looks like somebody entered some incorrect information on the autoplicity web site.  

 

hit them up for the "100% correct fitment" guaranty 

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If it looks to good to be true, it is probably a carb rebuild kit for a Toyota. 

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yeah I've got studs in, but the dang things fused to the nut and so they all came out in one piece. 

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yeah I've got studs in, but the dang things fused to the nut and so they all came out in one piece. 

Been there, done that.  'wish I had just cut off the nut.   The threads on the stud can be cleaned up with a thread die.  If you ruined the threads in the block, you can always go up a size and re-tap the hole for a bigger stud.  There is a recent thread on this site with how-to.  

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If the nuts are seized on the studs, get new studs and nuts. Use anti seize compound when you reassemble.

 

If the nuts are not too badly stuck, I have clamped the stud in a vise, with scraps of aluminum to protect the threads. Heat the nut with a torch if needed. But if they are very rusty and crusty, it's still better to get new ones.

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Well, sorry guys. Just came home to mine delivered and it's the carb kit too. Made by a Walker company with the same part number.

 

I knew it had to be a mistake... just not the one I was hoping for.  :unsure:

 

Sent an email, so we'll see what they'll do tomorrow. I'm sure returning is no problem, just hoping for a deal on the exhaust, if they actually have that.

 

We can claim false advertising, but don't know how far that will get.

 

And yes, as DaveT sez, just get new studs. They are still available at the dealer, although the part number for first and second gen is NLA, just get them for a newer model. I think the newer ones are just slightly longer, but same size otherwise. Don't understand why no one at Subaru has figured this out and just superseded the part number...

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yeah I've already retapped and put in a helicoil. My goal is to put studs in the others and have the exhaust flange turned. Which is why I was particularly interested in these since it seemed the flange can be rotated.

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Well, sorry guys. Just came home to mine delivered and it's the carb kit too. Made by a Walker company with the same part number.

 

I knew it had to be a mistake... just not the one I was hoping for.  :unsure:

 

Sent an email, so we'll see what they'll do tomorrow. I'm sure returning is no problem, just hoping for a deal on the exhaust, if they actually have that.

 

We can claim false advertising, but don't know how far that will get.

 

And yes, as DaveT sez, just get new studs. They are still available at the dealer, although the part number for first and second gen is NLA, just get them for a newer model. I think the newer ones are just slightly longer, but same size otherwise. Don't understand why no one at Subaru has figured this out and just superseded the part number...

 Please let us know how it goes.  I have not yet contacted them about the return. 

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Well, I returned the carb kit today.

 

I asked them via email when the actual part I ordered would ship to me.

 

Their response was: "Very sorry, but we are afraid we would send you the wrong part again, so we are refunding your money."

 

Top. Notch.

 

Hope they aren't expecting good feedback.  :angry:

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This reminds me of the time I needed a part for my Dynahoe. It is a big loader backhoe. The part was a double universal joint that drives the main hydraulic pump. Like many parts for our 30 year old Subarus, lots are no longer availavle. And dealer parts are big money. I had spent a fair amount of time looking for parts to rebuild it etc., and not had much luck, so I called the local parts place. They had one. The last one. I asked how much. And had to ask are you sure. $45.

00. I'll be right there! I was expecting $450.00. An hour or so later, I still had a hard time believeing I had the right part, on my way home, and less than $50.00.

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"Like This

Subaru Scott's PhotoSubaru Scott

04 May 2018

Aaaand now their website is updated.

 

$141 for the y-pipe.

 

Out of stock.

Quote"

 

Excellent prices on out of stock products.

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