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Howdy, All.

 

I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next.  I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate.  No previous problems or symptoms.  Car turns over, just never starts. 

 

Note: The check engine light is not on.  I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes.

 

Here's what I've done:

 

* I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output).

* I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status.

* I took my ignitor and put it into another car.  Other car performed fine.

* I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them.  They appear to be functioning fine.

* I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status.

*** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not.  

 

Now, where do I go from here?  Timing?  

 

Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing.

 

Please help.

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broken timing belt.

 

Probably bent valves. 

 

Pull the outer timing covers and take a look.

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Thanks.  I'll take a look.  If obviously a broken belt, how likely is it that the valves bent?  

 

with the DOHC 2.5 almost a guaranty.  Especially with manual trans.

 

Sometimes with an Automatic, the engine will stop rotating while car rolls to stop, so slight chance on no damage.  

 

BUT.......since you've been cranking it over without checking belt either way likely all cyls have bent valves.

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So, I was only able to take off the two side timing covers (until I can get a 22 or 23 mm socket to get to the middle timing cover), but the belt appears to be intact.  It appears as though it may just be severely out of sync.  Could I have gotten lucky, and not bent any valves?

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7/8 th will work on the crank bolt.

  Sorry but if the belt slipped you bent valves.  You can pull spark plugs and check for compression or pull the valve covers and check for valve adjustment.  Or pull the covers confirm timing is off . .. order head gaskets, new valves and seals  and pull the motor.

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So, I was only able to take off the two side timing covers (until I can get a 22 or 23 mm socket to get to the middle timing cover), but the belt appears to be intact.  It appears as though it may just be severely out of sync.  Could I have gotten lucky, and not bent any valves?

 

If no individual cam is more than 3~4 teeth off, you might be lucky and have no damage.

 

You need to take off the covers, and reset the belt to correct position (inspect rollers and pump before this)  

 

Hang a belt on it and do a compression check or just try to fire it off......If it runs right, Order a new timing belt, rollers, and water pump and do the work.

 

22mm socket for the crank pulley.  You can stop engine from rotating by putting a large prybar or screwdriver through the flexpate (access hole under rubber cover at back of block)

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Thanks, Gloyale.  So, reset the belt and timing to correct positions (using the belt I have) and then do a compression test?  Sorry for being "green" at all of this.  But, I have the time to figure this all out.  If I do this, and compression is shot, I'll likely have a new/refurb engine put in.  If compression is good, put in a new timing belt and water pump, rollers and be good to go?  Thanks for your input.

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Just pull the valve covers and check the valve lash. If you have any bent valves it will show as excessively large valve lash. There's no need to go into the timing at all to do this and if they are bent the valve covers are coming off anyway.

 

GD

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Just pull the valve covers and check the valve lash. If you have any bent valves it will show as excessively large valve lash. There's no need to go into the timing at all to do this and if they are bent the valve covers are coming off anyway.

 

GD

 

Pulling timing covers is arguably easier than pulling valve covers in my opinion.  Plus it opens the Oil cavity and will then require new VC gaskets and tube seal.  Plus you gotta pull outer timing covers anyhow to see arrows to check valve lash. So I don't see how it saves work.  Crank pulley and 9 little 10mm bolts take about 10 mins to remove even without air tools.  Fewer bolts to remove and easier to get to vs. pulling valve covers (gotta remove battery, washer bottle, and airbox too )

 

Pulling DOHC covers and checking lash on all 16 valves with the engine in an outback (dropped craddle) is a PITA.  Takes half an hour or more just to get them off......then struggling to get a feeler up in there next to the rail.........Imean I have check clearances in DOHC motors in car, but it's not fun or practical just to see if the belt got off time.

 

If he pulls timing covers and finds the timing correct......then the issue may be something else like Crank sensor or???  At that point no chance of bent valves so no need to pull valve covers.

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I would pull the outer timing covers. If the belt is skipped or broken this would be immediately apparent. And then move directly to pulling the valve covers to check lash. Replacing the belt and the doing a compression check is unlikely to be successful and if the lash doesn't check out the engine is getting pulled anyway.

 

But there are many ways to approach it. I've seen plenty of higher mileage D's with valve lash problems anyway so it's good to check.

 

GD

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