Jump to content

Recommended Posts

You have to resolve all of the five variables.

 

1. Battery

2. Fusible links

3. Connecting wires

4. Fuse box

5. Ignition switch

 

-The battery, make sure you have good clean connections and cables are firmly connected and battery is charged.

 

-If the fusible links are dodgy, replace them.

 

-Disconnect the battery to check continuity in the wiring.

 

-Check for voltage at the fuse box.  Some fuses have voltage all the time,  the ones you mentioned at the first post that had power.  Others only have voltage when the key is in the on position. Replace any blown fuses.

 

-If all of the above check out then the problem is the ignition switch.  You can remove it and clean it or replace it.

 

At this point you should be able to have power to all the vehicle when the key is in the on position.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4 other electrical problem areas are:  1. the hot wire coming off of the alternator, can get brittle and lose it's conductivity right at the circular eye connector.  2.  the engine ground wire at the connecting to the body in front of the battery, 3.  the black wire coming off of the +positive battery wire that goes into the bottom of the fusible link box.  The wire gets brittle and loses it's conductivity at the battery connector end of the wire.  4. the distributor cap can crack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i feel like i looked everywhere i possibly can, im not great with electrical stuff. i had power to the fuses at one point after this happen then the next day it was gone. im thinking of pulling the fender to try and trace those wires going into the car. im close to giving up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you remove the fender - check [or double check] -

The fusible link box is mounted to the overflow tank. It comes off by pulling and wiggling.  Get it oriented so you can inspect the wires where they come out.  You don't want to see corrosion or burned / discolored insulation.

There are 4 wire on one side, and one wire on the other side.  The single wire is the connection to the battery.

While it is loose, get a meter probe on the contact for the heaviest white wire.  This is the feed for the always on fuses, and the alternator output terminal.  That should have 12V on it always.  If it doesn't, the problem is the link, one of the contacts, or the wire that goes to the battery.

 

The other 3 also should have 12 V on them always.

 

IF there is 12V on the 4 wires, and not on the fuses, I'd want to check the back of the fuse box, the big heavy white wire, before pulling the fender.

Don't know if you checked or anyone mentioned, but also a good idea to verify the 2 ground wires on the battery (-) terminal - the fat one to the starter mounting bolt, and the mid size one that goes to the body..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All of the grounds have 12 volts and the fat white wire and the single wire going to the battery have 12 volts. All links are also at 12 volts. There are 2 gay white wires behind the fuse box and neither have 12. I’m off today so I will double check all of that, I also tested all the the fat wires going to the starter and alternator all of them at 12 also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All of the grounds have 12 volts and the fat white wire and the single wire going to the battery have 12 volts. All links are also at 12 volts. There are 2 gay white wires behind the fuse box and neither have 12. I’m off today so I will double check all of that, I also tested all the the fat wires going to the starter and alternator all of them at 12 also

 

Grounds have 12v?  This is wrong.

 

Gay white wires?  I can tell you all of the large white wires in that car should have 12v to battery.....it's the same circuit as the charge wire at the ALT.

 

It is really sounding to me like the large white wire has corroded through where it's crimped/splits under the fender.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This car is going to be the dearth of me. Now I have no power at the links but I got power at the wires going into the links from the bottom, still no power at any fuses ......anyone please HELPPPPP

 

Just to clarify.  Power goes OUT on the links....not comes in.  12v from battery in on Large black wire from battery, through links, and out to systems in the car. 

 

You need to verify that the LARGE white wire at the links box, and the large white wires going into the back of the interior fuse box, have continuity.  These are all the same circuit.  It's the main supply to Ig. switch and Fuse box, as well as being the charge line for the ALT.

 

Check to make sure that black fusible link is in good shape and passing power through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK like I said I suck with electrical LOL, the reason I said the grounds have 12 V is because I’m putting the red multi meter on the battery and the black multi meter lead on the ground which I just realize it’s just testing the battery. Now for the gay wires I meant big wires going into the back of the fuse box both of them have no power which leads me to believe that somewhere from the fusible link that fat white wire coming out loses power before gets to the fuse box. . All the fusible links or 12 V I checked both sides the white wire at the bottom of the fusible link is 12 V I found that white wire a little bit further up in the harness and it doesn’t have 12 V

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok quick update.. I pulled the fender and traced the fat white wire and tested it in several different spots, it has 11.30 under the fender and 10 and change behind the fuse box if I test behind the fuses there is power bitnnothong on the actual fuses.... what do you guys think, and also my ignition is no longer chiming with the key in, I’m thinking maybe the switch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

if I test behind the fuses there is power bitnnothong on the actual fuses.

 

If you have power to the fuse box, but nothing in the fuse box, then the problem is the connection at the fuse box.  I would double check the connection and try to get power to the fuses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I have power in the fuse box and my chime is back. Traces the fat wire all the way back to fuse box and it’s fine, just nothing when key turns, has power everywhere but there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the always on power at the fuse box stay there while you are turning the key?

 

Yes, then trace towards the ignition switch.

 

No, look for a flakey connection back toward the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which fuses are the always on fuses

I doubt any body has a complete list but they are the safety type items, "horn, hazards and key in ignition chime" 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay I got it to run, took a wire and ran it from the battery to the white wire going into the fuse box. It’s crimped and splits into 2 wires about 8 inches before the box, that wire is only getting 6 and change in volts. When I put the wire from batt to that crimp all power came back and car started, so I ran a new wire from the link box to the fuse box and it didn’t work, so I’m guessing that white wire must split somewhere else in the harmess to power something else that’s keeping the car from starting..... Now what’s the best bet here? To regain proper voltage to the fuse box, somewhere along that run from the links to the split it loses half its volts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's losing voltage because it has high resistance somewhere between there and the battery, not because the power is splitting off to something else.

 

You have a bad connection, causing the high resistance. But, you have narrowed it down to one small section, so keep looking there and you will find it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuses fed by the heavy white wire -

 

Heater  |   Heater   |  Stop & Room & ECC    |   Position (= parking light switch )

 

Middle row is here, none on the white wire.

 

R-DEF   |   R-DEF

 

Those not listed are not on the white wire.

 

Try the rocker switch on the top of the steering column.  That is the parking light switch.  They should light even without the key in the ignition.  If they don't, continue tracing the white wire problem.  It is also good to put a load on circuits as part of testing - that is, say you have your voltmeter on the white wire, and it shows 12V.  put that switch on - does it stay?  Change a very small amount down?   Or drop to near zero?  [assuming the lights do light]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your 10:27 post tells a lot.  Look for a bad connection between the back of the fuse box and the battery.

 

Put the voltmeter on say the white wire on the fusible link box.  Turn on the parking light switch, as a test load.  Like I wrote above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there any way to post a pic in the chat

 

Yes. Right next to the "Post" button, click on "More Reply Options" button.  When the new screen appears scroll down to "Attach Files", click on "Browse" to select image from computer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only way I can test them is if I pot power from battery to where it splits before the fuse box, otherwise nothing goes on without that power

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×