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The joint in the picture looks good, nice and clean.  If things work with your "jumper wire" feeding that point, the problem is somewhere between that connection and the battery.

 

As things are now - without the added wire - does 12V show up at that joint?

Does it stay there if a load is applied?

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No I believe it was 9 or 8 I don’t remember the exact number. And in the behind the fender I poked it in 2 spots that were 11 and I believe the closer I got the the grommet where it goes in it got lower

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What I did was replace the white wire with another wire, I snipped right below the link box and right before the spot I showed and ran a new wire , and that didn’t work.

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The only way I can test them is if I pot power from battery to where it splits before the fuse box, otherwise nothing goes on without that power

 

So, then you know the problem is somewhere from that point to the battery. It's not that far, you'll know it when you see it. 

 

Look for discolored/burnt insulation at the connections. It won't be in a stretch of wire with no connections, unless someone has been butchering something.

 

90 percent, or more, of electrical problems on Subarus are from where someone has been in there monkeying around. Installing stereos and amps, trailer plugs, etc.

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What I did was replace the white wire with another wire, I snipped right below the link box and right before the spot I showed and ran a new wire , and that didn’t work.

 

DON'T start cutting wires until you have found the problem. You will probably only make things worse. 

 

Those big wires need quality connections. Not what you are likely to get with cheap auto parts store crimp ons.

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Getting voltage dropping on a wire that size implies a lot of current, which makes no sense, as the battery isn't dead - it would be long a go.

 

But if the battery reads 12V at the terminals, and the voltage at that joint is not the same, there is a high resistance somewhere between that joint and the battery.

Keeping the meter negative lead on one ground location for all test - don't move it.

 

Do a recheck of the (+) battery voltage, right on the lead post.. 

Can you get the meter connected to the white wire on the back of the fusible link box?  what is the voltage there?

As a test, any 12V light you have laying around connect to the white wire joint, and the other side of the bulb to ground - what does the voltage do?  Dose it light?

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-Now I have power in the fuse box and my chime is back. Traces the fat wire all the way back to fuse box and it’s fine, just nothing when key turns, has power everywhere but there
......
 
-When I put the wire from batt to that crimp all power came back and car started, so I ran a new wire from the link box to the fuse box and it didn’t work,

 

We're getting mixed test results.  At one point you have power to the fuse box, then later the power is gone for some reason, but restored with a jumper wire.  We need to get to some consistent test results to know what to fix.

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We're getting mixed test results.  At one point you have power to the fuse box, then later the power is gone for some reason, but restored with a jumper wire.  We need to get to some consistent test results to know what to fix.

 

The bad connection is giving the mixed results.

 

It will pass enough current to power the gauge on a test meter to show 12+v, but as soon as you throw a real load on the circuit, there is too much restriction at the fault.

 

It could also be that he's moving the component or wire around and temporarily making a better connection.

 

I'm betting it was just a fusible link all along...

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I'm betting it was just a fusible link all along...

 

Because a jumper wire from the battery to the back of the fuse box did restore power, a bad fusible link does make sense.  A continuity check on that big white wire would help to confirm.

Edited by Dee2

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I changed all the fusible links with temp homemade ones except for the black one that was still in good shape and the red one. I’m going to get all new ones ordered today, I went over that white wire pretty good and didn’t see any discoloration or signs of a burn or bad spot. I jade the fender of and took the wires out of the black tubing, nothing looked bad at all wires were all in great condition they looked brand new

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What I did was replace the white wire with another wire, I snipped right below the link box and right before the spot I showed and ran a new wire , and that didn’t work.

 

If you also bypassed the white wire and got no results then that also points back to the fusible links as the problem.

 

As Dave suggested, see if you get 12v coming out of the links box at the white wire.  That will help nail this problem down.

Edited by Dee2

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If it was the fusible link this whole time I would feel pretty damn stupid lol, yeah I already bypassed that white wire with a new wire from the link to the fuse box and it didn’t work so I figured maybe that white wire spits off to something else I couldn’t see and bypassing it caused it not to work. I’m going to take a half day tomorrow and see what I can come up with I’m just happy innow know something... THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INFO YOU GUYS BEEN SHARING, if it wasnt for you guys I deff would have given up already

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If you also bypassed the white wire and got no results then that also points back to the fusible links as the problem.

 

As Dave suggested, see if you get 12v coming out of the links box at the white wire. That will help nail this problem down.

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If you also bypassed the white wire and got no results then that also points back to the fusible links as the problem.

 

As Dave suggested, see if you get 12v coming out of the links box at the white wire. That will help nail this problem down.

 

The white wire did have 12 volts below the link box, it faded the further down the white wire I went with the lowest being right before the spot behind the fuse box

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The white wire did have 12 volts below the link box, it faded the further down the white wire I went with the lowest being right before the spot behind the fuse box

Unfortunately, that's another mixed result.  You have 12v at the start of the white wire coming out of the links box. But when you bypass the white wire from the same starting point, it didn't work. (?)

 

I don't know what to make of the fading issue.....

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Have the fusible links been replaced yet? They're that old it would be work replacing them just to rule them out.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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If you ran a wire from the white wire on the link box to the joint, and It made no difference, and when you ran a wire from the joint to the battery, and it worked, that narrows the problem down to the fusible link, one of the connections, or the wire that goes from the link box to the battery, or its connections.

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If I connect the new wire to the white wire below the link and than connect all the wires to the fuse box it works. That white wire has to power something else along the way

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Iirc, it has a junction to the alternator. Like the one in your picture for the fuse box. I want to check that next.

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If I connect the new wire to the white wire below the link and than connect all the wires to the fuse box it works. That white wire has to power something else along the way

 

Between the links box and the interior fuse box there are no lessd than 4 splits.

 

Wire splits and goes to :

 

Alternator, Ignition switch, fuse 1-4, and fuses 17-18.

 

Additionally, if you have a GL-10 there would be a split for the Sunroof relay, and Air suspension compressor.

 

My guess is when you cut the wire and ran jumper between links box and fuse box, you cut out the split that goes to the Ignition switch, and probably the ALT too.

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I have seen a wire break inside the insulation. It was very tricky to spot the break, just a little anomaly in the smoothness of the insulation. Almost has to be that kind of thing, or the crimp where the alternator ties in is bad. Bad crimp more likely, so look for that first.

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Can I wire it the way I have it? It works, I have it tied in after the link and before the fuse box. Can that cause any problems if it’s just an old wire issue?

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Broken wires,  cut wires, jumper wires, old links, patch links, new links......mixed test results.....no starts/starts....oooofffff!

 

OP knows what needs to be done.  Get 12v from the battery to the fuse box and he knows what lies in between so he should be able to proceed from here.

 

When everything is reassembled and if there is still a problem, then we can get a clear reference of where things currently stand and go from there, otherwise we're going in circles.

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