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Thought I'd mention this having driven the Al-Can twice.  There is next to nothing on the route. Something breaks and you will be stuck there for days, waiting for a part.  Treat yourself to a new fan belt, carry 10 gallons of extra fuel and never pass a refueling stop because you think there will another just down to road because there won't be.  Also, no radio reception. Expect to see bears, sheep, caribou and buffaloes here and there. 

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I was going to say do yourself a favour and get the O2 bung hole welded in before you pull the existing exhaust off the vehicle. But if my eyes see it correctly on my phone, it looks like you've already got one in there - winning!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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Well, it took some effort to get the old system off because it was all essentially welded together as one piece, but I punched out the rear tube of the muffler with a screwdriver and got the muffler off, then had to buy a small hacksaw and cut the two bolts connecting the front pipe and midpide. Now I've got the new system on, but I can't get the old O2 sensor out of the old y pipe. I don't have a 22mm wrench so I'm trying with a 7/8 and it's just barely not the right size, starting the strip the hex.

 

Anyway I've gone ahead and ordered a new sensor from a store in town (should have just got one from Rockauto and saved the $30 but hindsight is 20/20)

 

Once the new sensor is installed I'll warm it up to break in the catalytic converters like this page says to do

http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/proper-break-in-can-prevent-future-problems/

 

And then hopefully she starts and runs smoothly and quietly! I have a nagging nervous feeling that there still might be something off, so if there is at that point I'll check the CTS.

 

Also I plugged in the connectors to try and look for codes but couldn't figure it out, no lights were flashing anywhere. But maybe my test connectors are under the dash and not under the hood?

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If there are currently active codes, the LED will blink them without any diagnostic connectors connected.

 

The LED is viewable through a hole in the ECU. The plastic panel under the steering column must be removed to see the hole in the ECU.

 

I meant to mention that the O2 sensor would likely be very stuck.

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Test connectors will be above the drivers feet - you have to remove the kick panel to find them.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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If you were in deep water it is posable your timing belt sliped a tooth the belts arent real tight on the pullies so water can get between the pully and timing belt kinda like hydroplaning ive had that happen before its a easy fix if thats a issue

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