uniberp Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 (edited) 2008 Forester X. The drivers side valve cover, in fact, can be removed without jacking up the engine. The bottom rear bolt is a pain to get at: since I didn't have a 1/4 drive universal joint, I tied a string to the box end of the wrench because i kept dropping it. One flat at a time, it came undone. After removing the heavy steel cover, the fuel rail comes unclipped by pushing the 2 blue vertical slots on the connector through. Then the valve cover can then be rotated up and inward to be freed. Removing the battery helps get at everything. Now if I could find those plug wire clips that came off and fell somewhere, and not on the floor. One went on top of the squirt reservoir, but blast if I can find it. Edited May 23, 2018 by uniberp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Real fun isn't it... On a legacy the battery and the washer reservoir is removed but not the fuel rail. I forget which but one goes down to come out. Valve covers are one of the hardest things to do on a Subaru. Now you see why so many leak or even worse why you find broken bolts where they tried to just tighten it up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted May 23, 2018 Author Share Posted May 23, 2018 (edited) Real fun isn't it... On a legacy the battery and the washer reservoir is removed but not the fuel rail. I forget which but one goes down to come out. Valve covers are one of the hardest things to do on a Subaru. Now you see why so many leak or even worse why you find broken bolts where they tried to just tighten it up . This one (2008) uses shoulder bolts, that still leave what looks like about ~1mm of space between the surfaces, I guess to prevent overcrushing the gasket. Saves a dummy like me from trying to torque them accurately. M6 I think. 10mm head. A little concerned about dirt getting knocked down on the valve train, when the cover knocked loose, but It drains directly to the sump. I sprayed it out with some gas. Oil change when Im done. Edited May 23, 2018 by uniberp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 That bolt is the reason I bought a ratcheting wrench set years ago. haven’t done an 08 Forster, would they work on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 That bolt is the reason I bought a ratcheting wrench set years ago. haven’t done an 08 Forster, would they work on it? I assume so, 10mm., if it clears the cover bulge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 (edited) I spoke too soon. The other side (passenger) rear lower bolt was froze, and I thought I could feel it start to twist off, which would have been a disaster. (There are lots of threads on twisted-off Subaru valve cover bolts.) I drilled a tiny hole (3/32) through the side of the boss on the block until I reached the threads and sprayed PBlaster in it. It was still tight, but it cracked loose. Since the boss is threaded through, it seemed safe to try it. It seemed to relieve some pressure or allowed lubrication. I used a mirror to see where to drill. It's not visible directly (with engine in the car). And finding a 1/4 breaker bar was not as easy as I thought. Crescent makes a 6 and 9 inch. I got both for like $15 and the long one was better. Got them at Menards. Oh, and the plug clip was in a recess on top of the reservoir, but I had to pull away the air dam valance to even see it. That pi**ed me off more than any other part. And yes, I'm slow as heck. Edited May 31, 2018 by uniberp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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