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I’m working on an 83 DL wagon with front wheel drive. The service manual refers to the missing part as a helper, yet the more common term is bump stop. This car is missing the rubber cone part of the helper on the rear right side. I know there are options for universal part replacement or getting an oem through Subaru, however, I’m lost on the best way to remove the mounting plate that remains. The plate is an octagon, but it’s about an 1/8 inch thick at best.  Before I foul it up with what I think would be logical attempts, I think it’s best if I ask how do I get this out from those with more experience! Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

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I thought there might be access to a retention nut, but there are no holes or openings in the vicinity of this (after removing literally everything - seat, trim, side panels - everything!).  So I'm figuring it's a captive nut and perhaps the best way is to drill through the center of what's left and use a bolt extractor.  I'm just looking for any other suggestions from those with more experience before I create another problem.  Thanks so much!

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Forget the extractor.  Those only work for new clean bolts that snapped off.  Never for old rusted ones.

Penatrating oil, them try a pipe wrench, unless you are lucky enough to have an open end wrench that big.

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^What Dave said.

Also try a chisel on the edge of the hex plate. Tap it kind of moderately to get a decent groove cut, and then give it a good smack.

The "impacting" action is best for breaking loose rusty fasteners. And unless you have an impact wrench with a socket THAT big...

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MANY THANKS!  Seriously, I really appreciate the guidance. It was not easy or fun, but now I’m done. Used a dremel to cut notches into the plate (no room for anything else!). Chisled and chiseled. On the third rotation, the captive nut became “uncaptive” as in no longer welded to the frame. So I drilled a pilot hole to ensure the right spot to drill on the inside, then drilled a 1” access hole through the floor. Used an old broken long drill bit through the pilot hole of the plate and frame to lock the plate in place while undoing the nut with the impact wrench. The access hole, although annoying, validates using the $9 aftermarket bump stop/helper with a nylon lock nut versus the $60 OEM part. In reality, once I finish the moderate restoration, this will be a garage kept, good season, nice weather, weekend only car that won’t get more than a total of 1,000 miles during the next 60 or so years of my life... I’m 48 now, so yes, I’m definitely an optomist. :D

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I asked about this not long ago, now you have done it ! Do you know just what thread was used as the stud into the captive nut?

A small pilot hole above for lube spray may be a good move for anyone not having the access hole ;)

Shorter bump stops could be handy. A mate has admired a lower than mine Brumby. Close inspection revealed the factory bump stop clearance of 20 mm has been reduced to nothing. Might have something to do with its 900,000 km as a delivery vehicle

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Well, I’d like to give a clear answer, but the best I can do is say I’m sure that a 17mm socket was used on the nut. I think that means the bolt would be M10, but I’m not sure about the thread. If I find that nut again (still need to clean up the garage piles) I’ll try to find out for sure and post it. Thanks and stay well!

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