Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

problem assembling 5MT ....


Recommended Posts

As I tension up the first bolt of the two half cases the drive pinion starts to become notchy.as i turn it.

On first assembly with all locating pins and cross   case bolts in and torqued up the drive pinion was stuck fast.

I am thinking to remove front diff from equation, or try another rhs housing

Everything inside is snug, both halves fit nicely

This drive pinion needs to spin smoothly

Any experience?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cases are in pairs so don't swap them around. 

Make sure the pinion shaft bearing locating pin is locking in place correctly.

you may also have to recheck your diff backlash/preload settings. One trick could be backing the side bearing tensioners off a set amount and remember this to readjust properly once the cases are all bolted together up to spec.

All the best

Bennie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You answered one question there then Bennie.

 

The locating pin that doubles as reverse idler shaft retainer is called a straight pin in the manuals.

The straight pin for the pinion shaft is not protruding as much as expected nor the one above it.

Some background. I have had this box apart once before, cases together but could not sort the diff bearings out, so pull apart, add some seals for good measure.

 

Now , when the two cases went back together, there was an ever so slight rock centreing over the centre.

 

Torque the bolts fixed that, maybe in more ways than I care !

 

Its almost as if the straight pin was punched in too far.

 

I am have no choice but to swap the case pair from the 23 splines stubs donor box

This is awd dual range but it is not the usual 19 and 23 toothed cogs of the hi lo

 

Only 19 and 20 like later EJ low *cough* range

 

Bloody learning exercise I really don't want or need at the moment. I just wanna get this 12 year old idea done and dusted :(

 

Deal with locating pin first, then diff backlash

 

Thanks Bennie. I know you are a decade ahead of me on gearboxes and EJ conversions

 

EJ22 sits in a sealed box in a shed for old age I suspect

 

I may just have to find a , what was it Greg ? early 2.0 Foz box and give it some EA cases

 

Just pulled my first ex Disco, ex Subareck awd box's centre diff out as when I checked its specs it was nice n tight

Only when playing with latest did I suspect something wicked was on with my first awd centre diff

 

Toasted, rooted .....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

August this year is 10 years on my EJ conversion from memory. And five or six years with the modified AWD box. One year involved a rebuild where a few things changed and more learning occurred in the department of the subtle differences between the phase1 and phase2 gearboxes...

The L AWD box originally didn't come with the good 1.59:1 low range. I can't remember the teeth count on these gear sets.  These boxes only ever had the 1.19:1 low range from factory. Good for some street racing or rallying on tight courses I believe.

I hope it all goes back together properly for you. 

Cheers

Bennie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now, let's find that pic .....

See how that locating pin has nearly dropped out of sight?

I think I did that on assembly #2 where there was a slight rock of top casing and I figured the torque down would sort things

 

I am giving up on this case set and going to use the cases of the box that I sourced my 23 splined stubs from

 

Now, if anyone knows the length of this pin WOULD BE REALLY HELPFUL !! 

If I knew length I could borrow a right angled drill, get just under it with a screwdriver and push it back in correct position

IMG_20180614_162132.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I think this relates to your other thread here.

That pin has recessed into the hole where the selector shaft should be.  This means you should be able to get something that's hook like (or something with a U on the end) to push that pin back up where it should be to then pull it out.  I get this from the pic of mine below:

p7231370.jpg

You can see where a spring is in the hole for the selector shaft should be and the pin is still in it's original location.  All of this came out and was reassembled after drying off from the wash it copped.

I don't have a gearbox apart here, but I have a set of halves at m&d's that I could dig up next time I'm down there.

Cheers

Bennie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Bennie, I must have been too preoccupied with things to see this post of your industrial strength drying rack and notes. 

Now thatI have four or is it five? various boxes in bits about the place ( could be aasking for a really bad rebuild there :( ) i now have a LHS case i need not care about, 5R shift rod out - cannot see either a direct line from outside up into detent spring ball and plug hole to under the locating pin that has sunk into its safety bunker.

So some right angle drilling will likely take place.

 

BTW, i am writing in international English am i not? Was expecting input from oud host country ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its a blind hole drill a tiny hole at right angle to it approx where the bottom would be then use a rubber tipped airgun to blow it out. If air doesn't move it then hydraulic pressure with a grease gun could.

Did this to remove a broken cross pin bolt stub in a Chevy diff yrs ago - it works.

Edited by czny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep czny , precisely but still need the rare genius to come up with knowing where to drill said hole. So far nobody stating the length of this little sucker

 

I tried to order a new pin. No such part number.

Dealer says in the day if you ordered a new case get the pin already installed

 

I don't know, where have all the knowledgeable ones gone?

 

Edited by jono
Edit silly !
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jono said:

Yep czny , precisely but still need the rare genius to come up with knowing where to drill said hole. So far nobody stating the length of this little sucker

 

Page 1575 of 25th edition of Machinery Handbook states that:

"the general rule is to use dowel-pins of the same size as the screws for fastening the work. The length of the dowel-pin should be about one and one-half to two times its diameter in each plate or part to be doweled."

What dia. is that dowel? 5 or 6 mm? From the pic I'm guessing 6 mm. Common lengths at McMaster-Carr are here:https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-dowel-pins/=1dfabqo

Try feeling for the dowel end with a strong pickup magnet thru the brg web perhaps?

Only has to be light enough press fit to hold it firmly & this should allow air or grease/hydraulic action to push it out.

Edit:

Is it the pic or is there a small flat on that dowel? If so, air or grease won't get it. Back to your leverage ideas.

 

Edited by czny
Seeing things. (ha ha)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jono, not an industrial drying rack - an old ironing board without the cover, awesome for this type of work ;)

As for that little pin, it might be in there for good - if there's no access hole via the gear selector shaft's hole it's time for some right angled drilling (I just got one of these units from bunnings, good piece of kit to have but you will need to by hex ended drill bits :( )

If you've got five boxes in bits, why can't you pull one of these pins from one of those boxes to get it's size?  Are you sure you've put the correct pin in there to being with?

You could try putting this case half inside an oven (because I know you've got a big oven!) or on top of a decent wood heater (from cold then crank the heat to warm the case up slowly) to see if the expanding alloy case will let go of and drop the pin out for you - just make sure it's laying down so gravity will help the pin drop out ;)

Cheers

Bennie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guess what readers. The pin is 6.00mm diameter.

 

I don't think Fuji followed anyones rules ....

 

I have tried rare earth finger clanging magnets to no avail.

 

I did get the heat gun from its packaging and warmed up the casing , and figuring if you grabbed the metal pin with ice cold Vise Grips with really good teeth, it must shrink it enough to come out ...And I got the little sucker. Yee..bloody..HA !

 

Milwaukee'd the hole in the side, all on a spare gearbox casing 3/16 hole ....US not supply metric hex drive drill bits in Oz yet

 

My supply of grease nipples is pre metric, probably before Australian threads made a stand against Whitworth, so popped into SCA and found someone had pilfered one of two M6 nipples in a two pack. Suited me ..needed one...paid for just one :)

Giving credit to CZNY for this approach...it is a long time since I have used grease to hydraulic things out.

 

This little sucker is 8.00 mm long. In practice unit I marked out 10mm below surface and drilled the 3/16 and like any seasoned tunneler - came up at perfect spot, tearing the dimpled bottom out of the locating pins hole !!

 

More later, when things are done

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...