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Hello All

I changed the timing belt and screwed it up. I replaced all the idlers, the water pump and the tensioner.rotated the engine by hand numerous times to double check for interference and there is none. I failed to line up the cam marks correctly

I am ready to remove and reinstall the belt when I turn the crank so #1 is  at TDC the key way is not at 6 o’clock more like 3:30-4:00. I am using a chilton manual and the guide that came with the continental belt kit. It cautions against moving the cam pulleys. I will need to move them just slightly. 

From the photo can you tell me if the crank is in the correct position 

A4EC4AFD-E91F-4D61-9686-D594BECEDD5E.jpeg

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it needs to go about 5 teeth more clockwise.

 

there is a groove/dash/line on one of those tabs at the back of the sprocket - it should be aligned with the groove in the cast 'boss' right above where the crank pos, sensor is.

 

the 'triangle/arrow' will be at about 3 o'clock

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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more info on engine would help.

 

if you pulled the pin on the tensioner, re-compress it VERY slowly or seals inside can be damaged.

 

search on-line for pics of the front of your engine type for alignment details, maybe a youtube video even.

 

search also for the tooth count. After alignment and pulling the tensioner pin, rotate the crank sprocket with a wrench 2 times to bring the marks back around - do a tooth count to triple check before starting the car.

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Throw away that chilton's manual, they cause more grief than help .  Move the crank as Tex instructed.  The keyway should be down when lines on top are even .  Drivers side cam is under tension when properly lined up ... it will stay at just where it needs to be, with notch in plastic housing lining up with mark on cam gear. Pass. side cam is free floating when lined up with the crack in the case.  

When all three hash marks are lined up, leave the top pass side idler loose to help install belt. Now attempt to feed the belt on . Books say go counterclockwise I always go clockwise!  start at the crank pay absolutely no attention to the silly lines printed on the belt, proceed under the tensioner and around the drivers side cam gear follow around water pump idlers pass side cam gear and finally slip it under the loosened idler  (don't forget to tighten it up)  If all timing marks line up then books say to pull the pin ... I say hand roll the motor over 2 revolutions until marks come back in line ... IF  all three still are perfectly in line THEN pull the tensioner pin and hand rotate 2 more revolutions , Marks should all three still be perfect if so finish your installation if they are off AT ALL  START OVER ! 

(EDIT)   Didn't realize this is a ej25 D  motor

Edited by montana tom

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Thank you I am going to dive in right now and get back to you shortly

64DF494D-621E-4CA6-AB6D-C9891F6C6885.jpeg

Edited by WillRXsti

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well, belt needs to come off, leave the crank where it is, but re-position the cams , re-install the belt.

 

on my WRX, the DS intake cam REALLY wants to flip - it can be tricky and some folks have tried to use document clips and visegrip pliers, etc. to keep things in line.

 

there are several videos that give some pointers, here's one;

 

 

  • Sad 1

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You (or Chilton's) are over complicating this - focus entirely on the timing marks available to you that makes this *really really easy* and ignore everything else.  Throw away the Chilton's manual (the time spent getting it, turning the pages is life wasted and they're a liability as you can see here), forget the phrase "TDC" for this job, put the camera/cell phone away and use the marks on the crank sprocket and cam sprockets:

This is so, so, so, so easy - from where you are right now:

1. Line up crank mark
2. Remove belt
3. Line up cam marks
4. Install belt

Done

*If you're uncertain which marks to use - just google it and do an image search.  I've never done it but I can guarantee there's about 10 zillion hits. 

Steps 1-4 I can do from start to finish including all the serpentine belt, timing cover removal in 45 minutes.  Add a little for a first timer and it still probably doesn't take much longer than you've spent looking at Chilton's and taking pictures.  Focus entirely on the marks and just get them to line up before you install the belt.   For that matter instructions on doing the belt are everywhere as well. 

Once you install the belt - if the marks don't line up - wash-rinse-repeat and try again. 

I don't install the lower passengers side timing pulley until the belt is installed, it can be installed after the belt is on.  

  • Like 1

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Got the job done thank you all for your help. Now the temp gauge is pegging out hot. I didn’t notice that happening before. I’m going to burn the Chiltons at my next bonfire.

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It can be tricky to burp all the air out of a recently drained/filled soob cooling system.

did you replace the thermostat? it MUST be OEM-style (see pic below) jiggle pin at 12 o'clock.

get nose of car up on ramps/curb, squeeze hoses, confirm the rad is full with a good rad cap and the overflow tank is at proper level or a little above. Run car till fans come on, rev the car to get good flow,  let it cool for hours, check that rad is full,  top-off overflow, run again till fans come on, let it cool. Re-check overflow. The system 'should, be able to purge a small amount of air this way. If it still overheats, there is a problem. When the gauge maxed-out, was coolant pushed out of the overflow?

 

 

Thermostats%204%20sm.jpg

 

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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 I did replace the thermostat but I don’t remember what it looked like  if I don’t get the desired result by burping it I’ll pull the gooseneck off and take a look at it 

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did you remove the upper hose and pour coolant into the hose to fill the block? seems to help when I had this issue

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25D's are difficult to get the air out of. You have to pull the bleeder out of the passenger top of the radiator to let out the air as you fill. Then they typically work fine. You MUST use an OEM thermostat, and quality water pump that has close enough tolerances between blades and housing to efficiently clear the air pockets. Being this is a 96/97 25D there is also an extremely high head gasket failure rate and the more you mess around with it and overheat it, the more likely that becomes. 

It also helps, once you get it warmed up, to use a fill funnel to get the level higher than the engine bay, and then rev it up to 5k rpm repeatedly till the thermostat opens and the air pocket clears. Make sure you get the oil up to temp before you start revving the beans out of it. That's how we clear the air on all of them. 50% of the time it works 100% of the time. 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
  • Like 2

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