Wildem Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 When i changed my solenoid out for my MBC i changed all the lines just to have the new ones vs the old stiffer lines. When trying to dial in the mbc the car just would not boost. It would spit and sputter and go nowhere. So i decided to change back to the solenoid and again used new pieces of line ( i know, i know, i forgot about the restrictor pill)and it still ran the same until i put the line with the pill back on. My question is do i need to keep the line with the pill on even when the mbc is installed as well? Everything i have read says no. But it runs like dog s*** otherwise. Can anyone offer any advice on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) The advice is - DO NOT run a manual boost control on a Subaru. You can't increase the boost by doing this. The computer will shut off your fuel and throw a P0244 wastegate performance code. Your on a path of destruction here - without proper timing and fuel control you may get a little higher boost but you will squirt the rod bearings right out of that poor old abused 2 liter. Get a tactrix cable and tune the car properly. Manual Boost Controllers are for small block chevys and DSM's. Subaru's don't work this way. GD Edited July 22, 2018 by GeneralDisorder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 14 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: The advice is... Get a tactrix cable and tune the car properly. Manual Boost Controllers are for small block chevys and DSM's. 2002+ USDM turbo Subaru's don't work this way. GD Fixed it for you... (Currently running an electronic BCS on my V1 WRX swapped RX without issue, but at or below stock boost, for the time being.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 1 hour ago, carfreak85 said: Fixed it for you... (Currently running an electronic BCS on my V1 WRX swapped RX without issue, but at or below stock boost, for the time being.) There is no need to do that if you get ESL for it. Those older WRX systems had factory 3-port boost control like the 91-94 Legacy Turbo. We run 20G ECU's all the time and have yet to use a MBC or standalone EBCS on one. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 3 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: There is no need to do that if you get ESL for it. Those older WRX systems had factory 3-port boost control like the 91-94 Legacy Turbo. We run 20G ECU's all the time and have yet to use a MBC or standalone EBCS on one. GD I've got a RobTune'd ECU that I'm sitting on while I work through a high load/high rpm cutout issue, but I've been eyeing the ESL board. Who tunes your ESLs? I worry about buying a "standalone" that nobody has worked with before and having to pay for someone to teach themselves on my car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 High load/high rpm cutout is probably the ECU cutting off your fuel for bringing in too much boost with the MBC.... or it's bad coil packs. ESL isn't difficult to tune. It's basically just like an Access Port. Jarad (PDX Tuning) does our tuning if I don't do it personally. We will be getting a 2000 HP DynoJet in the Oct/Nov time frame from a well known shop that be phasing out full time operations. It will have its new home in bay #1 at my shop. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 18 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: High load/high rpm cutout is probably the ECU cutting off your fuel for bringing in too much boost with the MBC.... or it's bad coil packs. ESL isn't difficult to tune. It's basically just like an Access Port. Jarad (PDX Tuning) does our tuning if I don't do it personally. We will be getting a 2000 HP DynoJet in the Oct/Nov time frame from a well known shop that be phasing out full time operations. It will have its new home in bay #1 at my shop. GD Sort of off topic, but since we're on the subject: I just completed the EJ205 coil pack conversion on the EJ20G, but they might be STI coils in which case the boots are too short. It's also been suggested by SuberDave and others that I re-gap my plugs down to a maximum of 0.030 in. Stock boost is 14 psi on the V1 WRX Type RA ECU, I have the electronic boost controller's low boost setting dialed in to 10 psi and the high boost set at 14 psi. The engine cuts out at both boost levels. Sounds like I'll be making a trip down to you once I get an ESL board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Are you positive you don't have any boost creep? I would go one step colder on the plugs and gap them as suggested. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said: Are you positive you don't have any boost creep? I would go one step colder on the plugs and gap them as suggested. GD Pretty certain I don't have boost creep, I haven't noticed it creeping up during a pull, at either pressure. I should double check that again after I gap the plugs. Stock NGKs are platinum, heat range 6. I went with NGK iridium, heat range 7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hhhmmm - no codes from the ECU? Could be noise in the cam/crank sensor signals also. I've seen that a few times and being a swapped car the harness routing is always a question mark. And the older stuff had really bad shielding especially on the cam sensor. We see problems with cam sensors signals on the 02/03 WRX's and it's a real pain in the a$$ to troubleshoot and track down the source. Can be as simple as grounding or bad alternator diodes, or just random interference from solar flares and passing airliners. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Good looking out! I was told that the vehicle's check engine lamp was wired into the engine harness, so should light when there is a code. I have not seen it illuminate, but I've not asked the ECU if it has any stored codes. Something to do tonight, I guess. Good looking out on the cam sensor harness, I may just go throw some shielding on that harness spur, just for piece of mind. The wiring on the car was done by SuberDave and is actually pretty solid for being one of the first EJ-swaps in North America. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Check engine light should illuminate when the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. If you don't see that there's an issue with the check engine light. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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