3crows Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Bought an '86' Soob a few weeks ago with a weak clutch that was starting to slip. Drove it into the barn, pulled engine and trans, did the clutch, put it all back together, tried to start it, and nothing: no crank. Dash lights come on, headlights come on, just no crank. I've re checked to make sure I've got everything plugged in but maybe I've missed one.Checked continuity in fuseable links; OK. I didn't see anything in the inside fuse cluster that referred to anything regarding starting. So that's where I am so far. What I don't know is how the power gets from the key to engage the starter. I haven't done anything under the dash so the problem would seem to be in the engine compartment unless it's the starter relay that just happened to pick this time to die. Just scratching my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 On the back of the starter there is a small wire. Unplug it, and get 12v to the terminal on the starter, to verify that the starter cranks. These cars did not have a starter relay, and it is common for one of several connections or switches in the circuit that feeds the wire mentioned above to become high enough resistance to make the startery not engage. Although, this usually begins as an intermittent click no crank problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 It's either --a bad battery or --a loose connection meaning no power to starter, or --a bad starter, or --the engine can't rotate. If you have good strong headlights then the battery is likely good Check all connections, again, since the engine was out Check to see if the engine can rotate by manually turning the crank, also check oil If still no success then a likely problem is the starter itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Starter ground to bell housing? Maybe forgot to slide bolt thru the ground cable when finished with clutch job? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Battery just came off the charger and had no problem cranking before doing the clutch. There's not even a click. Engine turns by hand. It's grounded at the transmission to the firewall where the spare tire sits and near the radiator by the battery. How about a starter solenoid? Think I remember there being 4 solenoids behind the dash located in a place that's almost humanly impossible to reach if you're over 2 ' tall and have hands bigger than Barbie's.. I'll check the starter tomorrow. And thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Just had a similar intermittent no start on my 87 GL yesterday. Odd because batt is fully charged & starter works when jumped from sol conn to positive. Pulled steering column bottom cover to look at ign sw & behold if the stakes holding sw together had loosened. Removed sw from column lock, gently squeezed it together in a vise with leather glove to protect wires & solder joints. Staked sw back together with small chisel & light hammer. Put column back together after testing & all was good. Back in business! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 There is no relay in the starting circuit of these cars. The only solenoid is on the side of the starter motor, it throws the pinion gear forward to engage the flywheel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 And that's not happening. That's why I'm going to try to find which one of those solenoids operates the starter. I've salvaged a few from 'Pick A Part' for spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 There are no solenoids under the dash. Those are relays. NONE of them operate the starter. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Hmmmmmmm. Back to zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 2 hours ago, 3crows said: Hmmmmmmm. Back to zero. No, you need to check the starter. First find if the starter is getting 12 volts. There may be a damaged wire somewhere. If the starter is getting 12 volts but still not working then remove the starter and take it in to have it tested. If it needs new solenoid contacts they are easy to put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 5 hours ago, Dee2 said: No, you need to check the starter. First find if the starter is getting 12 volts. There may be a damaged wire somewhere. If the starter is getting 12 volts but still not working then remove the starter and take it in to have it tested. If it needs new solenoid contacts they are easy to put in. IF this is a EA82 SOHC then starter solenoid contacts are same as for 20R & 22R Toyota truck starter. Starter rotation direction is difference between the two brands Subaru & Toyota. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-REPAIR-KIT-TOYOTA-CRESSIDA-4RUNNER-CELICA-PICKUP-20R-22R-22RE/162732627329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Checking for power in & out at ign sw is easy with a test light. Just need to remove bottom column cover. What model is this 86 Sube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 The loose wire was in my head. Was thinking last night about what Dave said about the black wire. That's the one I overlooked. Hooked it up this morning and it turns over. Test drive is next. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Test drive: Started cutting out at about 2700 RPMs at 45mph. As far as I've read, this can be caused by timing, cracked distributor cap or worn distributor. Could I be a tooth off on my timing belt replacement? Next day noticed a puddle of antifreeze on the floor under driver side of engine. Was hoping to find a leak in the heater hoses but everything on top was dry. Head gasket? Anyone replace head gaskets without pulling the engine? Also noticed that the oil pressure was quit high. It runs at about 45# in my other two Soobs. This one could be 65# or more. It's about 2/3 the distance between the 45# and 85#. Good? Bad? I'm beginning to think I did something evil in a past life. A few more details about this car. Was advertised on craigslist as needing a clutch but that the owner would include a clutch kit. Said he didn't have a place to do the job. Car has 161K mi. Said it had a shimmy in the front end that he attributed to bad tires. It was about 60 mi. return trip to get it home, The shimmy was a wobble and I couldn't go faster than 45mph on the freeway. It was a long slow drive home. Put it up on stands and pulled the engine and trans. Split them and found that the clutch kit was the wrong one for this car( disc too small) . The source of the wobble was that the axle nuts were on hand tight after he or someone did the front brakes. At least the cotter pins were in or it could have gotten real ugly. Destroyed the front tires. Steel belting was showing in several places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 3 hours ago, 3crows said: Test drive: Started cutting out at about 2700 RPMs at 45mph. As far as I've read, this can be caused by timing, cracked distributor cap or worn distributor. Could I be a tooth off on my timing belt replacement? Next day noticed a puddle of antifreeze on the floor under driver side of engine. Was hoping to find a leak in the heater hoses but everything on top was dry. Head gasket? Anyone replace head gaskets without pulling the engine? Also noticed that the oil pressure was quit high. Some things you can do for diagnosing problems: -Check your vacuum lines for leaks. If you have a vacuum gauge run a test. If you have a fuel pressure gauge run a test. -Check your distributor cap for cracks -Check timing again.If your timing was off one tooth it would likely run bad all the time. - Check your oil/coolant levels to make sure they aren't over full. Keep checking for the source of the leak. Hard to replace head gaskets with engine in car although some have done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Also check the waterpump for a leaking shaft seal. its odd for a HG in the ea82 to externally leak coolant. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 14 hours ago, 3crows said: Test drive: Started cutting out at about 2700 RPMs at 45mph. As far as I've read, this can be caused by timing, cracked distributor cap or worn distributor. Could I be a tooth off on my timing belt replacement? Next day noticed a puddle of antifreeze on the floor under driver side of engine. Was hoping to find a leak in the heater hoses but everything on top was dry. Head gasket? Anyone replace head gaskets without pulling the engine? Also noticed that the oil pressure was quit high. It runs at about 45# in my other two Soobs. This one could be 65# or more. It's about 2/3 the distance between the 45# and 85#. Good? Bad? I'm beginning to think I did something evil in a past life. A few more details about this car. Was advertised on craigslist as needing a clutch but that the owner would include a clutch kit. Said he didn't have a place to do the job. Car has 161K mi. Said it had a shimmy in the front end that he attributed to bad tires. It was about 60 mi. return trip to get it home, The shimmy was a wobble and I couldn't go faster than 45mph on the freeway. It was a long slow drive home. Put it up on stands and pulled the engine and trans. Split them and found that the clutch kit was the wrong one for this car( disc too small) . The source of the wobble was that the axle nuts were on hand tight after he or someone did the front brakes. At least the cotter pins were in or it could have gotten real ugly. Destroyed the front tires. Steel belting was showing in several places. Hey ! You are guilty in first instance of not telling us you replaced timing belts in first blurb !! Well done on forgetting that starter solenoid wire That is the important one and the wire intercepted if you were to install a starter relay to take load off the poor old girls starter ignition switch. We also need to be careful in saying the car does not have starter relay as in 30 years it is quite possible someone (needed to ) install one. It must have had a FWD non turbo clutch and flywheel to be wrong/smaller one. Did you have to change the flywheel as well ? Can you advise what the engine combo is please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 I bought the correct clutch kit and installed it along with a new rear seal. No problems there. I looked at the water pump weep hole on the top of the pump. No leaking there. Been working on the backhoe project for the past few days so haven't gotten back to the Soob project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 There is also a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 OK, I'll check that also. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Make sure the heater circuit pipe work over the top of the engine isn't leaking. That little 90* bend from the top of the waterpump can fail as many people dot replace it since it's under the AC bracket (if equipped with it). This pipe work above the engine includes the little painful hoses to/from the throttle body area There are many small places in this area for a leak to develop. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 There are 7 coolant system hoses on the EA82 engine. Be sure they are all not ridiculously old, and in good condition, including the pipes they slide onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3crows Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 Worked on Soob tonight. Changed distributor cap and adjusted timing from 8 to 15 degrees. The other thing I neglected to mention was that it has a Weber carb but someone took the electric choke and choke butterflies out for some reason. I've got a complete Weber coming in a week to replace it. Maybe I'll find a carb body on ebay to fix this one. Ran the RPM's up to 4 grand with no cutout but that was sitting in the barn and not under a load. Found the coolant leak was from the radiator filler spout. It dripped on that flat sheet metal piece and then dripped onto the floor by the cross member. The edge had been bent down so that the cap couldn't seal. I bent it back and it seems to be sealing OK now. This car also has that flapping sound coming from the passenger side same as my other '86' Didn't notice it at first what with all the other stuff going on. It also has a glass pack muffler. I'm a teenager again! Varoooom! In the old days dealers would put glass packs on used cars to hide all the noises from other stuff that was wrong with the car. I'll take it out on the road tomorrow for another test drive. Nobody showing any concern about the high oil pressure? It was 45# warmed up at idle but goes up at higher RPMs. Is that normal? Seems reasonable to me but I never noticed it before on my other Subaru's. Found that the clutch kit is for a fwd, not a 4wd. It's a15001. Only thing missing was the throughout bearing but still useless to me. Don't know why anyone would own a Subaru that wasn't 4WD. Another thing I didn't mention was that it had power steering and AC, both of which I eliminated. I had an alternator bracket in my spare parts stock made up of unsuccessful Subaru projects. Off topic again. Any of you folks had any luck replacing the windshield in one of these guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 glad you found your leak check your oil level, maybe bad oil filter ? have a glass shop do windshield - they are done in 30 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 I have done a windshield or 2. Also had one of the places that comes to the car do it. Getting the old one out is the hard part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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