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2003 Outback rear brake estimate


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I would call around for how much parts are and then get the shop estimate hours.  I know a couple local shops that charge around $75 an hour, maybe a little better on cash and let you bring the parts.  Rock Auto and Advance may not have OE quality but it is worth checking what their near OE parts would cost.  

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Definitely get more quotes.  Chain places will probably be similar, a local suby specialist will likely be your best choice.

For example Rock Auto has the following parts/prices

PowerStop Caliper/Rotor/Pad Kit $185  (minus $43 core charge on the Calipers)

Raybestos Coated Rotors $15 each (coated to resist rust)
Raybestos Coated Calipers $75 each minus $30 each core charge (you get $60 back when you return both old ones) Coated to reduce rust
Akebono Ceramic Pads (OEM supplier) $43

Above does not include taxes or shipping

When asking for quotes ask about part brands, where they get parts.  Chain auto stores usually don't have coated rotors or Calipers in stock and some places may use the uncoated versions.  Personally I won't put any uncoated brake parts on any of my cars now.

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Could be competitive.

Book time is 3.2 Hours. Average private shop rate is usually $50-$75 = ~$200 in Labor

 

Here's the deal with parts. If the shop buys the parts from a local parts store, and installs them, and something fails, the shop will (almost always) do the legwork and the parts store will cover the parts and labor cost (meaning you bring them the car, they fix it, and charge you nothing). The shop will mark up the parts on the original purchase for that service.

Decent loaded rear calipers are probably about $100ea over the counter at the store, so figure $150ish through the shop (these are pretty loose numbers and dependent on individual shops/suppliers, but probably within $30 or so). So you're touching $300 in calipers. Depending on how extensive their inspection was, they might be guessing that the calipers will be seized, and it's completely possible that once they get in there, they might find that the old ones are fine.

$150 for pads, rotors, brake fluid, maybe shop supplies. That may or may not include tax....not completely unreasonable.

 

 

Keep in mind, when you buy parts, you're buying the warranty. You can always find a cheaper source, but they might not stand behind the part. You could buy it down the street yourself and bring it to the shop, but they're not going to replace them for free if the part fails, and the parts store isn't going to cover labor on an over-the-counter sale, and you'll probably have to re-buy the replacement part and return the defective part for a refund.

If you're prepared to take that risk/hassle, you can certainly save a bunch of money, even if you have the same shop do the labor.

 

Edited by Numbchux
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I think that is too much for that job as well.  Shop around. Also, why do you need new calipers?  My shop usually takes them off and either repairs,or cleans them , lubricates and reinstall them if they are safe.

 

 

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On 8/18/2018 at 5:38 PM, 3Pin said:

I think that is too much for that job as well.  Shop around. Also, why do you need new calipers?  My shop usually takes them off and either repairs,or cleans them , lubricates and reinstall them if they are safe.

 

 

3Pin, my calipers are locked. Not sure they are salvageable.

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9 hours ago, JoJay said:

3Pin, my calipers are locked. Not sure they are salvageable.

The calipers are *not* locked, it is all but impossible. The *slide pins* are locked. There is a difference, that's just how mechanics distill it for public consumption. It's a market driven price - priced right around the sweet spot of shops making easy money with repeatable results, happy customers, and consumers not wanting to deal with  options.

That price is about right - Very roughly it's $50 caliper, $50 rotor, $50 pads = $150 + $150 labor = $300 per side.   You want to make sure the shop is using sil glyde or some other high quality cailper grease.  the traditional old style grease causes the pin bushings (which subarus and other cars never used to have) to swell and is low grade stuff anyway, but there are still people using it.  

You could get this repaired this for about $300-$400 by replacing the slides and pads.  This is what I would do and so I'd have you're entire car fixed for $50 in parts (free labor).  Here's what you need to repair the "stuck" caliper, buy these and find a mechanic who will install them:

$16 for two of these:  
https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-14149/dp/B000C00XI2/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-7&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit

$7 for one of these (this set is for both rear sides): 
https://smile.amazon.com/Carlson-Quality-Brake-Parts-16083/dp/B000ZN3GNK/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534858754&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-4&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+pin+kit&dpID=41khsjLQ5%2BL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Any average shop in the northeast has to have a torch to function so they have the tooling to remove even a terribly stuck slide pin, you just need to find one that will do it. 

If you want - you can even buy new caliper brackets - they're like $20 each, here's one for $25, then there's absolutely no question since no torch or time is needed to free the stuck slides:

https://smile.amazon.com/Cardone-14-1605-Remanufactured-Caliper-Bracket/dp/B003PINW7C/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534859313&vehicle=2002-13-66-162--1-6-6-204-108-1-1-2601--6-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aoutback&keywords=caliper+brackets&dpID=4179Sj5u1ZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You spend $25-$100 in getting the right parts and a shop charges $300 labor - and they're making the same amount of labor doing this rather than replacing the calipers. 

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