Naked Buell Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 Hey everyone. So I have been dealing with this Weber problem for some time. I have an 88 Rx that of course the Ea82T is junk and I got rid of it. I put a completely rebuilt Ea-81 into just for the reliability of having it run like all the Ea-81's. But with the Weber, every time I shut her off for more than say 10-15 minutes, she is hard to start and you have to be precise with your foot and the gas to get her to start. Once started she is fine. Well, I found some info online today that I wanted to share. One guy I found, FINALLY, had the same issues I was having, yet it was on a Mazda truck that had the weber. He would drive 5 miles down the road to the parts store and if he was in the store for more that 10-15 minutes, it was hard to start. Well, he found out, while experimenting, that the intake was getting so hot that it was transferring to the carb and atomizing the fuel while the car was off, and basically flooding it. They make a spacer made out of Phenolic/ Bakelite that is like $30 with the shipping that keeps the carb cooler. It fixed his problem and he even gained a little from having more space to atomize the fuel before ignition. Before he said he couldn't touch the carb it was so hot, but now, it keeps it way cooler, to even touch after a long drive. So I ordered one today. I wanted to share with you guys. I have been dealing with this for some time. I hope this fixes my problem. I will post what comes of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 That was a common problem on old carby rigs than ran pot metal carbs instead of aluminum if they got really hot. The pot metal doesn't dissipate heat as well as aluminum does so it would boil the fuel. It's called vapor lock. The old Rottenchesters (Rochester) & 'stock' Holley carbs used to do it. IIRC, the DGAV was cast aluminum though so I'm not sure why it would do that. Smaller engine compartment, less free air space and a coolant passage right under the carb might have something to do with it I suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 did the weber ever get jetted or float adjusted is it electric pump if the pump is running can you see gas going into the carb with out cranking the engine or touching the gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Yes it did have the float adjusted. That was the first thing I thought of. Everything seemed fine, other than, with the car off, you could see the fuel still dripping into the carb, which, after investigating, found that it was vapor locking. I just got the phenolic spacer, will let everyone know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagons Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 I have a few questions for the OP. Did you buy this as a kit from Redline Weber? Do you have a fuel return? How old is this Weber? What is fuel psi and how is it regulated? Is the carb set up designed for a Subaru? I had your exact problems, spacer didn't do anything. So here what I did, I rebuilt the carb, not just gaskets and the float, I mean the whole thing. I had oversized emulsion tubes, too small of jets, in short a jacked up carb not designed for a Subaru lol. Make sure it is jetted, emulsion tubes and so on are the same as the ones Weber uses in their kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 R you serious? That is not what I wanted to hear. I have not put the spacer on yet, as it looks as if I will need to get longer studs for the carb. I tore the whole thing apart, checked and rechecked the float level before only to have it do the same thing. I have put the pressure regulator on it, it did nothing, I have the stock brat fuel pump on it, not sure what you mean for the fuel return. I have the stock fuel filter set up where it can bleed off what it doesn't use. It just isn't right, if you know what I mean. I did buy it from Redline Weber for the Subaru, 32/36 DGAV. I am really disappointed with it. I regret changing it from the Hitachi. It ran so smooth with the Hitachi. I listened to everyone else say they are crap and changed it, and it has been a struggle ever since. I would love to see some pics of what you did. I really appreciate the info. Let's keep this conversation going. Tell me your numbers for the tubes and jets please and I will compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 (edited) When you did the swap did you plug the water Inlet on the manifold anybody's done to 3236 loves it over the crapTachi that's the first thing I do when I get a Subaru take carb off and swap it trans dapt 2107 is the one peice adaptor plates for the 32/36 you just need the smaller air filter Edited September 12, 2018 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wclarkson Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 My Weber 32/36 had a second threaded and capped off hole on other side of the protrusion where the fuel supply goes in. I found that the brass fitting from the Hitachi's fuel return threads right in. It looks the same as the brass fitting for the fuel supply but smaller in diameter on the hose end and has only a small pin-sized orifice in the end. I had to bend it a bit for the hose to clear the AC compressor. I've seen mixed information about whether it makes a difference to have the fuel return hooked up for the Weber but it's worth a try if you still have the fuel return hose sitting in the engine bay and the fitting from the Weber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbilt Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 (edited) I never have the return line hooked up on my Weber's they all run fine if you have the hookup though it doesn't hurt to hook it up what about the coolant passage on the intake manifold did you ever seal that when you put the Weber on mine are welded shut but people do it with a piece of screen and JB Weld also Edited September 12, 2018 by pbilt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.