Manisfive Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 (edited) Hi All, I'm looking into purchasing a 97 impreza outback sport with 207000 miles on it. The dealer is asking $2450. I don't know the first thing about these. The only thing I know is I like AMC eagle wagons and I like this specific body style. I might go test drive it this weekend. Any advice on what to look out for and what expect would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Edited August 29, 2018 by Manisfive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Subaru dealer? in a new thread, you could aask for a shop suggestion near your city - someone may know of a Subaru-friendly independent mechanic. Talk to them about a pre-purchase inspection. Use any serious issues as a reason to either walk away, or get a lower price. At minimum, you waant to drive on-off the freeway after warm-up and watch the temp gauge and maybe look at the overflow bottle for excess fluid or bubbles. Drive in tight circles on dry pavement - should be no grabbing/bucking. Tires need to be IDENTICAL - not just same size - same brand and model too. If they cannot prove unequivocally that a PROPER timing belt system service was done, assume you need to have that done at least. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 Thanks. This is not a Subaru dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Relatively simple car without any major common problems. 2.2l engine wasn't plagued with headgasket problems like the 2.5. Probably rear drum brakes (lasts longer than disc, but can be more labor intensive to service). Look under the car just behind the right rear wheel for the fuel filler neck (2"+ metal tube, mostly covered by plastic sheilding) and look for rust on it. That's about $100-200 in parts and a few hours labor to replace if it rusts through. Most other rust would probably only be cosmetic (unless it's REALLY bad). Agreed to ask for Timing belt service history. IIRC Subaru recommends every 60k on those. '97 is almost definitely interference, so if the timing belt breaks while it's running, it will do internal engine damage. Not a big job to do preventatively, though. Probably a competitive dealer price, but be aware you're paying a premium for that dealer convenience. That's probably a $1500 car in a private party sale. So do the research on the dealer, and make sure it's worth it to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 So the 2.2L H4 SOHC 16V is an interference engine, I assume. I was planning on offering a pretty low number to start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 12 hours ago, Manisfive said: So the 2.2L H4 SOHC 16V is an interference engine, I assume. I was planning on offering a pretty low number to start. yes, a 97 will be interference. A proper timing service means not just the belt, but all roller pulleys, tensioner and water pump as well, and ideally, cam and crank oil seals - especially at that mileage. the 2.2 is a very good engine and will give years & many miles of trouble free service IF it is properly taken care of, but neglect it and it will bite you. While test driving - as already mentioned - keep an eye on the temp gauge. It should sit steady at just under the halfway mark. if it is fluctuating, there is a reason for it.. and it is not usually good. make sure both the heat and AC work properly, and all other accessories are functional - wipers & washers (front & rear), radio, all lights, windows, power mirrors, etc. Tires should match all around, same brand, size & tread wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 You're right at the tail end of a great time to buy - you should be able to wheel and deal, i'd do it sooner rather than later. I got a 97 OBS years ago for my wifes car specifically because of how great of a platform they are. Easy to maintain and they run forever. Rust would be a huge determining factor for me - it's such a time, energy, problem, and resource sucker over time. Yes Interference - give it a complete timing belt kit when you buy it. Even if the belt has been replaced they won't replace the pulleys and they are the frequent failure points, not the belt. So a belt replacement is quite literally worthless statistically speaking. While doing the belt it's wise to also replace the crank seal, cam seals, cam cap orings, and reseal the oil pump. That looks like a long list but it's just a few $3 parts and not much extra time. The timing belt has to come off to replace any of those so it's wise to do them all at the same time. Those older seals will be prone to leak by this age/mileage anyway. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryl Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 One thing about buying a car that's been a trade in to a different dealership is that they'd really like it off their lot, so the deals can be much better. Most running cars are worth at least $1500 unless there's any major work to be done, ie, engine, transmission. The dealership is selling the car at a higher price than you can get from a local seller, yet there should be some warranty at the dealership verses none when you buy it from someone else. In Canada, there's a 30 day warranty on all used cars sold from a dealership and IMO it's well worth a bit extra to have that peace of mind. That said, I also bought my Subaru from a Toyota dealership and have since learned a few things that I would now do in the future since there were dropped leads and head gasket problems that cropped up after. I would offer a close price for the car that they are asking, and I'd have them do an engine analysis and a 100 point check for leaks, brake/tire wear, etc, etc, etc. Costs them really nothing to do this (the techs are all there), yet they would be obligated to tell you of anything that they found and any dealership isn't going to risk reputation for not disclosing something for a car of this price. It would make more sense if the car was of higher value to take it elsewhere to have things checked out, but IMO not in this case because it will cost you for the full analysis of it. Take the car out on a test drive and check out the things others have said on this thread as a final decision and negotiate further depending on what's found. As just mentioned...rust would also be a big deal breaker for me too. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Thanks guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 This car fell through. The dealer couldn't come up the title. I did find a 2005 outback xt limited with 191000 miles at a different dealer. It was a fleet vehicle. It looks clean under the hood and nice enough on the inside. It drove nice as well. The dealer was asking 4652. I offered 2500. He countered for 3800. I got up to walk out and he said the lowest he could go was 3500. I'm suppose to go back Tuesday to finalize it if I decide to do it. They were closing when I got there. Do you guys think that's worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 05 OBXT is an enormous money pit. VF40 turbo failures are not just common but virtually guaranteed. Bottom end failures often accompany. Turbo/bottom end failures are usually around $6,000 to $10,000 to repair on these. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 hmmmm....wonder if 'not finding the title' was how they told you 'no, deal is off' .? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 3 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: hmmmm....wonder if 'not finding the title' was how they told you 'no, deal is off' .? What deal? I didn't make an offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manisfive Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 15 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: 05 OBXT is an enormous money pit. VF40 turbo failures are not just common but virtually guaranteed. Bottom end failures often accompany. Turbo/bottom end failures are usually around $6,000 to $10,000 to repair on these. GD Which Subaru's had this design flow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Manisfive said: What deal? I didn't make an offer. just guessing, did you see the car on the lot? I'm sure if the title can't be found, they can get a replacement. But, sometimes, excuses are made for other reasons. I once had a lot try to scare me off by saying an advertised car wasn't on the lot because it was being repaired. I said, that's cool, when is it gonna be back for a test drive, some other guy came out and said it had a bad headgasket - I said, that might not be show stopper, can you call me when it's available? The first guy said yeah, we'll def. do that. I gave them my number, never got a call. Always wondered if it was some kind of bait and switch thing or what was really going on. Edited September 2, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 11 hours ago, Manisfive said: Which Subaru's had this design flow? VF40 turbo models are the worst. 05-07 Legacy and Outback turbo models use the VF40. None of the turbo models are a good idea really. They are all maintenance intensive when old. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 wh....what's in my 06 WRX ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 13 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: wh....what's in my 06 WRX ? Stock it would have the Mitsubishi TD04H. The IHI VF40 was only used on 05-07 LGT, and OBXT. In 2007 or 2008 they switched to the VF46. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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