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All 36 mm hub nuts same torque?


jono
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not got access to manuals ATM so asking if hubs nuts at rear get same sub 200 ft/ lbs as front drive shafts?

i swapped in my "Portland" disc rear this morning and now swear I have an unhappy bearing noise

if I had a torque wrench rated up to is it 196? I would use it

i just use a pipe 15" long sleeved over 450 long breaker bar and give it some and then a tad more to get split pin alignment.

 

i am the last one who tensioned this nut before and it seemed too easy compared to front CV shaft nuts

Surely FWD tears not so tight?

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49 minutes ago, el_freddo said:

I've always done the front and rear up the same.

No torque wrench used, just a 3/4 inch breaker bar and "some body weight" ;)

Cheers

Bennie

What he said. Torque wrench isn’t necessary if you’ve done a bunch of Subaru work. Since you presumably staked it you’ll know if you left it too loose when you go to tighten it and it turns too easily. 

  I have a heavy duty long 3/4” socket wrench and slide a 2 foot pipe over it and give it some hefty heaves, that’s my torque wrench. Front and rear. Never had a failed bearing. I wouldn’t do this on an SVX rear.

But I’ve probably only tightened like 50 or maybe 100 Subaru axle nuts. 

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Probably done about fifty myself using body weight for fronts. Rears somehow seem easier using raw muscle.

Gregory's manual and L books say 196 but my 83 fsmFSM says 145 which maxes my torque wtenwrench so going that way first time ever. FWD rears are different again

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Plus up to 30° for split pin hole alignment.

Just checked one and did not take any more to set off torque wrench

Will mark noisy side for reference

After 20 years of these I now know my toyque wrench has the scope

Edit. Next side was about 4 mm off what I did by feel. Who knows how tight that made it. Both now at spec. Still a noise but may not be bearing....

Edited by jono
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