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I got a 93 4wd loyale that needs front left axle replaced. New to Subaru’s what’s the best method? Should I change all of them or just that one? Also how to stop cat from burning the boot? Thanks in advance 

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3 hours ago, 4wd93loyale said:

I got a 93 4wd loyale that needs front left axle replaced. 

It probably doesn't.  Just clean it and reboot it.  Aftermarket subaru axles are a waste of time, just clean and reboot the one you have.

3 hours ago, 4wd93loyale said:

Should I change all of them or just that one? Also how to stop cat from burning the boot? Thanks in advance 

Change all of them?  no way.  subaru OEM axles last the life of the vehicle, you might be throwing away great life long axles and installing crap aftermarket that definitely won't last the life of the vehicle consistently.   just reboot them when the boots break. 

Use Subaru OEM boots for longevity.  check mounts and make sure the engine/trans aren't rocking too much and stressing the CV boots more.

if it's a lifted vehicle it might just go through CV boots quicker. 

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If it's only the boot, clean, re grease & reboot.
Even if it makes a little clicking on sharp turns, you are better off doing the same.
OEM are NLA , but keep your eyes open for used OEM ones.  The ends are painted dark green.

Aftermarket are junk, don't waste your time.

More parts for these models are NLA also, so be ready to be creative / stock up on parts when you come across them / have a backup car.

The link below is not a direct answer to reducing the heat from the cat - it is a side effect of my redesigned exhaust system, however.

http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

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I was under the impression that once they start clicking they are done. Also I think the previous owner might have already replaced the front passenger side one, i have never rebooted an axle I always replaced them on my other cars. Does anybody have a link for the process? 

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If it's clicking slightly you could try swapping sides. Axles obviously wear more going forward than backward, so changing what side they're on lets the axle wear in the "reverse" direction. I've done this in the past on cars that have unobtanium axles with good results.

 

I haven't seen an answer as to the best method, you have two options. Which one you chose depends on how badly things are rusted in your car.

Remove the cotter pin and the 36mm axle nut. Remove the washer that looks flat. It really isn't, make sure to put it back on the same way it came off (convex side toward the hub). Remove the conical washer with the slit. Remove the axle roll pin on the inside. Since the parking brake is on the front wheels I usually set the parking brake to hold the rotor/hub in place while the axle is out. You may have to unbolt the hub from the rotor to get the new axle in, but at least the rotor will stay locked in place by the parking brake.

Now comes the point where you have to make a decision. you can either remove the balljoint pinch bolt and drop the balljoint out of the knuckle. That will allow the knuckle to swing outward and let the axle come off the transmission splines. If your balljoint is firmly rusted in place and you don't feel like fighting that fight, you can remove the swaybar endlink and the inner control arm bolt. Turn the steering wheel all the way to that side and the whole assembly should swing out far enough to remove the axle off the transmission. You might have to also unbolt the radius rod from the control arm, but shouldn't have to.

Do not hit the axle with a steel hammer to remove it from the knuckle!!!! You will mushroom the end and the nut won't go back on until you file it out. If you must hammer the axle out of the knuckle use either a brass hammer or a brass drift.

When re-installing the axle, put anti-seize on the splines so the next time you have to take it apart it comes apart. Then make sure the shaft where the conical washer seats is perfectly clean. Make sure the taper in the hub where the conical washer seats is perfectly clean. And I mean SPOTLESS. Devoid of oil, grease or dirt. This is a mechanical shaft lock, if it's not clean you'll ruin your hub.

Just a note on the inner roll pin, the axle only goes on the transmission one way. If you have it 180 degrees out the pin won't quite go in, don't force it, just spin the axle 180 degrees. If your roll pin toll doesn't go through the hole, the roll pin won't.

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36 minutes ago, rdweninger said:

Wait a minute ... the concave side of washer goes toward the hub.  The convex side goes to the axle nut.

You're right!! Good catch, I'm super dyslexic and apparently got that backwards.

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On 9/13/2018 at 8:13 AM, 4wd93loyale said:

I was under the impression that once they start clicking they are done. Also I think the previous owner might have already replaced the front passenger side one, i have never rebooted an axle I always replaced them on my other cars. Does anybody have a link for the process? 

that's standard practice, and happens for a reason, but it is by no means "true".  regreasing it may or may not help.  a shop doesn't make money testing or trying so they just have one size fits all solutions that aren't accurate but they work and happen for a reason.  This doesn't mean they're based on actual physical, mechanical data. shops need easy repeatable and scalable one-size-fits-all solutions.  you're not a shop, with a little data driven brain work you've got more options than the average shop if you're DIY.

1. stuff some grease in the joint REALLY GOOD by hand - stuff it and stuff it and stuff it some more.  work it all up in the joint.  if it gets quieter after that - then you know the joint will respond well to a regrease/reboot.  this is a sort of "test" you can do.  it's worked every time i've done it (and it makes total sense - see explanation below).  *Keep in mind the grease will fling out within like 100 miles and you'll be back to where you are - as i said this is a test, not a good option for even a temporary repair.

2. if it's an OEM axle and they're hard to find - i would attempt to regrease it before installing an inferior aftermarket axle that definitely won't last.

3. if it's an aftermarket axle then yeah it's not worth saving or their such trash there's no way to compare "old noisy axle that previously had no issues" to a "brand new unknown POS aftermarket axle".  not worth the time trying to salvage or determine which of those two is the trashiest.

you don't replace door hinges in your home when they start getting squeaky - you oil them.  you don't need to replace bike chains when they're dry, rusty, and creaking, you lubricate them.  the noise does not indicate that any significant damage has been done. same thing here - the noise is symptomatic of a lack of grease, not a failing part.  now...it very well may be that it's gone too long or had abrasive sand/coal throw up in it and it is in poor shape.  and that's where shops can't guess or waste time particularly considering the wide range of clientele they have.

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As a shop, I will typically not replace the EA axles if I can reboot them due to the extremely poor quality of Chinese aftermarket replacements. And for newer cars we get the remanufactured axles from the dealer or we get used ones. Occasionally we will reboot them also. For other-than-Subaru applications we will usually get aftermarket replacements though there are times (Nissan Juke Turbo comes to mind) where brand new OEM ($675) is the only option.

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Yea, I've run into reman axles for older cars being piles of junk. I put a reman on my Mercedes and it lasted a couple weeks, another one lasted about as long. It's a really annoying process to change them, too, a solid hour. Finally I found a good original axle, rebooted it, and it's been fine for 3 years.

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