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EA82 oil pressure wire color

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I picked up an 87 GL 10 with SPFI EA82.  So many issues with this car, the previous mechanic was an idiot kinda guy that should have all his tools taken away to save the rest of us headaches.  Any ways the last few issues I cant sort out come down to 3 things I can not sort out.  1 What color is the wire for the oil pressure sender? I have a big oil pressure unit on the oil pump but the connector was broken off when I bought it.  There is a black and yellow wire hanging out of the wiring harness under in the intake same bundle that goes to the purge valve.  The wire is cut right to the harness so no idea where it should go to.  The other two issue are what on my newer EJ motors would have been a brass port for the PCV system but it has been crimped shut and rolled over.  Then right in front of that is a sensor that was cut off and capped with epoxy no clue what its for.  I have looked through my shop manual and can not find a wire diagram to match the cut wire or that caped of sensor.   Any idea what they may be?

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should be the Yellow that connects to the giant oil pressure sending unit on the oil pump, wrap it around the oil dipstick so that the crank doesn't snatch it or rub the wire.

just be aware that most of those have all broken by now, a replacement of one is a hefty $50, not sure why. but if yours still works, great!

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I think your block may be from a MPFI car.

MPFIs vent the crankcase there and the sensor looks like the remnants of a knock sensor.

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The broken green sensor is not a part for a SPFI or carburetor EA82.
I never had a MPFI, so I can't say much about that.
The oil pressure sender looks like a normal EA82 SPFI / carb gauge sender.  The single wire that connects to it is yellow with a black sripe.

That cut wire seems to be in about the right place

 

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Interesting it's definitely a spfi car the test plugs are under the hood, the seller never mentioned a motor swap. The snipped wire is yellow black so that's the winner. Now to sort the timing out and figure out why the purge valve solenoid is still setting off the light. I have replaced all the vacuum lines save for a tiny piece on the anti backfire valve that I just remembered as I type, it's the tiny piece held in the spring clip. The purge valve was broken apart and the clip melted so I got a new unit still throws a code. Today I'm going to clean every connection and ground under the hood I can find and go from there. The TPS connector was horribly corroded and setting a code for that originally luckily I don't need that $300 part.  My timing is at 18 degrees and the distributor is fully advanced. Spec is 20 degrees -+ 2. I double checked the timing marks they look good. It's been 15 years since my dad showed me how to work on my blazers distributor so I'm not exactly skilled with them. But if I rotate the motor to TDC on 1 I can then pull the distributor turn it a tooth clockwise put it back and have room to adjust correct?

Thank you for the help identifying those parts.

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When you try to check timing with a light, you have to connect the green test connectors. 

There is a ground to check on a bolt near the thermostat housing. 

Did you double check the timing belts?

 

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I had the green connectors connected reads 18, disconnected it jumps to 20.

I'll look for the ground thank you. 

Yes I did. Rotated to the center of the three timing marks drivers cam mark lined up on the valve cover top passengers side bottom looks good to me.

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it's possible someone installed the disty off a tooth.  If it won't get to 20 with the green connectors connected, this may be the cause.

The ECU adjusts the timing when the connectors are open, so readings don't reflect what you want to measure.

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Thank you all for the help I almost got it passed emissions today but it failed on the evap pressure test. So time to make a smoke can to test it.

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