mickytrus Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 (edited) Hello, I just went and looked at a 2003 Outback that is for sale.... 163,000 miles 2.5L five speed. I would like to know what I should be looking out for........ LIKE what ghosts may lurk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Recent Repairs:::::::: New rotors and pads on the front ... new pads on the rear Rear Sway bar links Rear Exhaust after Cat is new..... O2 sensors (because there was a light on) An oil change..... I wonder about the antifreeze(???????????????) It looks brand new......... he didn't mention anything about the antifreeze....... HERE IS THE STORY Car was acquired due to some kind of business arrangement....(this is what I was told anyway) Honestly, I feel spooked a little by this........ Supposedly....... The sellers Son acquired the vehicle...... They made these fixes to it.... But, they are selling it?????? It is being sold locally and privately. Not by a dealer...... Just sitting out in the front of someones yard for sale...(though) not the address/owner of the vehicle..... So, it seems weird ..... why dump the money into these couple of repairs..... and then sell the car? It currently is not registered..... though there are stickers on the window. Which I should take a closer look at...... Asking price is like 1800.00 or best offer... definitely needs a set of tires...... I was figuring that I would probably have to put a timing belt in..... (as a good preventative) What is the timing belt intervals? Is it 100k out of first belt then 60K there after ? OR is it 60k for Timing belts whether or not OEM....??? He said, the oil was changed.. Well, I checked... yeah, It looks like it was changed but, it was low on the dip stick..... I was thinking I should start it up with the radiator cap off......( the coolant over flow looks pretty clean) not oily AND.... Overall the car is really really clean... doesn't even stink inside car.. Typical subie rust on rear wheel wells. Even the engine compartment is really really clean (almost too clean) but, it doesn't really look like someone went in and cleaned it....... I have not driven it yet..... Technically, it is not on the road....... but, It must be driven........... I started it up...... It has a little bit of an initial Subie knock to it that goes away quickly..... and the clutch seemed pretty good. Please give a good read to what I have written... And let me know what you think........... And let me know what I should BEWARE of and look out for Thanks, MIcky Edited November 6, 2018 by mickytrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Head Gaskets can leak oil or coolant at the split seam. Biggest problem with these. If you don't feel good walk away. There area always more to pick from. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted November 6, 2018 Author Share Posted November 6, 2018 Quote SO like They are leakers? Like Serious Drippers Gushers???? Anything like the old 1.8L from the GL DL Loyale era? Leaking like MAD! What about Internal Leaks???? Into the Like oil into the coolant... OOOORRRR Coolant getting burned in combustion chamber..... I forgot to mention..... That the Coolant OverFlow was filled above the line..... (It was higher that what is should be) Meaning - looked like it was overfilled recently...... Yeah, I am being paranoid........ But, Seems good reason to be............ Last year... I was able to get a 1998..... that needed work.... for about $400.00 I don't mind doing headgaskets but, I would have to get the car for almost nothing to make it worth my while............ He said he would let me Jack it up. to look under it.......... HEY, what about cracked heads..... are these motors inclined to stuff like that? If I have to walk away from the car...... I don't mind...... I wasn't really looking for a car... This just sorta appeared in my view....... But, yeah, If you's can give me specifics on this vehicle..... maybe, I can get it for next to nothing.... or just walk away.............. or find that is sits for three months and then get it for nothing... THanks, MIcky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Head gasket. You really need a solid test drive of 30 to 60 minutes. Need the engine at temp for an extended period of time. At that mileage expect and add in HG failure into you price 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Sounds to me like he is a flipper. Buy a car cheap, put a little $ into it flip it. No record of the sale, he doesn't register or pay taxes. Feels like a weird transaction at this distance to me. I agree with msmithmmx, you need a test drive and long enough to get it good an up to temp. I also think you should take it to a mechanic you trust and put it up in the air. Rear sub frame can be in a problem in ice/snow salt country, axles, wheel bearings, check it all. Head gaskets & rear main for sure need to be checked. Steering rack if it is leaking is a pain in the rump roast to swap out for a new one. When was the timing belt done last. You seem pretty knowledgeable and sound like you can do lots yourself, but you don't want to be upside down on this one. Do all the windows, ac work, Cruise control.....HEATED SEATS IMPORTANT!!!!! LOL You get the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted November 6, 2018 Author Share Posted November 6, 2018 Yeah, Very True. I hate being compromised.... Like having to freakin' drive it around....... All under the cover........ Really, feeling like I should let it sit there and see if it.......(sits there)....... there are lot's of deals out there.... I especially like them for nothing...... and at price like what he is asking.... I need to give it a run for it's money...(It's a $400.00 car) Not up some backroad and to the turn around and back...... Yeah, I think I will wait this one out... see what happens.... **** In terms of the era of 2.5L motors in these Outbacks..... When did Third Generation Start? Anything after (year) 2000? And in terms of Leaking head gaskets???? or leaks in general on The Third Gens.... are we just seeing External leaks...(not Internal) Thanks , Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 (edited) you said they were worn but, are all 4 tires identical? brand/model/size? If not, red flag. as said, make sure the car is warmed up fully when you test drive, and after it's warm, take it to flat dry pavement and see if it smoothly does tight circles at idle or just above - any jerking grabbing is likely center diff binding, manuals may not show a problem when cold. - red flag never trust the o'flow bottle to reflect cooling system volume, look in the radiator. And, if it has a typical parts store rad cap instead of Japanese, that could be an issue - maybe the thermostat isn't OEM either. everyone expects a car to have working brakes, but flipped cars often have the cheapest pads on them. expect them to be poor performing or, at best, they will wear-out quickly. Timing Belt systems service schedule is 105monts or 105K miles w'ever comes first. Toothed idler is the weak spot but tensioner can be problematic too. Belts hardly ever break unless something else fails first. if you have a soob-friendly independent shop near your city, consider paying them for a prepurchase inspection. Edited November 6, 2018 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Too many red flags... I would walk away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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