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There must be some good ones of these improved aftermarket ones floating about wrecking yards or Subject enthusiasts no longer loved or cared for.

Just the module no need for the entire dizzy

contact me or my also known as Jono

 

IMG_20190112_095823.jpg

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Oh, good luck.  I've been looking for the four-pin EA81T version for the last 4 years.  All I ever see is the two-pin carby versions...

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1982-83 Nissan 200SX, (maybe?):

These cross over to 88921540 not 88921685. who knows but the pinout may be in different order(?)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49874&cc=1208562&jsn=942

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,200sx,2.2l+l4,1208573,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

1984 & up NA & turbo Nissan 200sx is same module as optical EA82, Std Prod #LX653.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1206-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-4L-L4-/123276988099?hash=item1cb3e18ec3

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1217-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-0L-L4-/263839904510?hash=item3d6e1572fe

Maybe go look into the NGK/NTK search for crossover to 88921653...

Edited by czny
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Those Nissan modules support dual plug heads,not knock control.They are like 2 modules in one.

I doubt the aftermarket modules are any more robust anyway.Just beware loose plug wires.

Edited by naru2

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28 minutes ago, naru2 said:

Those Nissan modules support dual plug heads,not knock control.They are like 2 modules in one.

I doubt the aftermarket modules are any more robust anyway.Just beware loose plug wires.

Show us all your documentation if you really want to help. I say to you Naru - prove it!

 

Until then here's more info for you Jono:

https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11184923/airtex-6h1250.html#interchange

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You have the right modules this time,

Notice the difference in the Airtex part nos. Correct  one is 1250,Nissan one is 1206.

I don`t need to prove anything.Waste your time if you like.

I say to you-Take a look at the distributor caps that go w/your Nissan modules,The extra pins on the Nissan module are to support a second coil,not a phase correction signal from the knock control computer.

Connections on the nissan module are: Power,intake coil,exhaust coil, and exhaust coil cutoff switch.

You may even damage your knock control computer by trying to use the nissan module.

I had one of those elderly nissans,There was no knock sensor

Edited by naru2

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Naru,

You're right about those distrib caps for Nissan. What a cluster F of coil buttons etc inside. 8 plugs to foul & wires to go bad on an L4.

Was wasting my time waiting for freight delivery of a new hood & rear bumper for my 73 Chevy Nova.

Steptoe,

Might be easier to find a later distrib to mod for that EA81T knock control(?)

Those Subaru modules might be NOS somewhere......only a maybe.

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On 1/14/2019 at 11:05 AM, naru2 said:

Those Nissan modules support dual plug heads,not knock control.They are like 2 modules in one.

 

My ea82t acts wonks under full boost at times. I suspect fuel pressure, but i also plan on bypassing the knock sensor. Good info on the nissan parts

@jono i have two dizzys I'll look at the modules but i can get my sorry as$ moving on my ej swap you got dibs on the modules.

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14 hours ago, sparkyboy said:

I also plan on bypassing the knock sensor....

And this is a good idea on an old, tired, turbocharged car at altitude because?....

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3 hours ago, carfreak85 said:

And this is a good idea on an old, tired, turbocharged car at altitude because?....

Well, unless the intermittent issue of the car feeling like she hit a wall under high boost and going into limp mode is caused by something else like insufficient fuel pressure.

And the knock sensor in the car has been messed with, someone rewired a new one in and i can't confirm if it works by hitting the engine with a hammer.

Besides if i break something its ej time:lol: she does only have a little over 100,000 miles but she has had a rough life so far.

Edited by sparkyboy

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I don't have 1st hand experience with this,  but have read a number of threads - knocking in ea82T is quick death..

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Sounds like you're overboosting and hitting the fuel cut, which on the '87+ chassis with the hot wire MAF is only like 8 psi.

Verify you don't have any vacuum leaks (rubber intake boot where it clamps onto the turbo is a common one, look for cracks), inspect all the rubber hoses, etc.  Replace the knock sensor, then see if you're still having the problem.

Do you have an FSM yet?

Edited by carfreak85

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Right. Thanks for the tips boys!

Mine is the 85 with the flapper style maf and i tested the two i have for resistance. I did suspect the maf, and i jb welded little cracks. I guess the loyale turbo and xt have a way different intake since the loyale is the hot wire maf. But i will test with a smoke machine before moving forward.

I do have the pressure release (bov?) venting to atmosphere instead of back in because I love the psssh sound. Will am aftermarket bov make it extra loud? He hee. 

This is my first turbo project and would love to boost my ej22 for my xt so i can start wrecking transmissions :lol:. Might as well find some turbo pistons lol oh and an lsd or two. I want to slam and autocross my xt on the 13s.

But please offer any advice you have to a boost rookie. And i have the fsm, it tells you to "apply shock to the engine" which means smacking with a hammer to test the knock sensor! 

Edited by sparkyboy

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4 minutes ago, sparkyboy said:

I do have the pressure release (bov?) venting to atmosphere instead of back in because I love the psssh sound. Will am aftermarket bov make it extra loud? He hee.

Ahhh, I don't think 85/86 even had a boost cut, so that's probably not your issue.  Do you have an FSM yet and have you looked up the troubleshooting tree for your condition?

I have no idea what you've disconnected, but our cars never had a blowoff valve.  The EA81Ts had a "pop off" valve that protected the engine from overboosting, but I'm not sure if EA82Ts had that as well.

I wouldn't worry about a vent-to-atmosphere bov, it's not going to help anything and may hurt drivability somewhat.  Get the engine in a good state of tune, then add an intercooler.

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49 minutes ago, carfreak85 said:

Ahhh, I don't think 85/86 even had a boost cut, so that's probably not your issue.  Do you have an FSM yet and have you looked up the troubleshooting tree for your condition?

I wouldn't worry about a vent-to-atmosphere bov, it's not going to help anything and may hurt drivability somewhat.  Get the engine in a good state of tune, then add an intercooler.

I suspect the fuel pump is an spfi or something, i had it on a cheap gauge and it read around 36 psi under boost. and i understand she needs around 43.5 (!?) Psi at full boost. My next step would be to get a real boost gauge.

Why is it a pain to spool up the turbo with no load? (In n?) That's how i read fuel pressure but i need to tape it to the windshield and recreate the issue and see what the gauge does...

Good times man. 

But i am keeping the flat hood hopefully i can get a bumper mount a t a intercooler! Na ej22 makes more power anyway and i can take my swap stuff off my gl for a quick and dirty swap :P

1543547326_shit2008.thumb.jpg.d55a08828928083e01a53a35682c56db.jpg

WP_20160808_001.thumb.jpg.7d5ef50634a880291cb1e88665c01002.jpg

Edited by sparkyboy

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Do you have a factory service manual?  This will help you immeasurably, even if you swap the engine in the future.

Start by looking for the vacuum leaks, then look at your air filter.  Then go for spark plugs (check that gap!), plug wires/cap/rotor.  This is a new-to-you car, so before you start throwing money at it do some quick inspections to see how the consumable components look at this age.

EA turbos never ran modern fuel pressures, I think the max they hit is 36 psi (modern port injected systems run the 43 psi, while direct injection can be in the hundreds and diesel in the thousands).  You could try replacing the fuel filter and rubber fuel hoses.

You don't see boost in neutral because the engine isn't under load, so not enough airflow to produce boost.  A permanently mounted boost gauge is a must for any turbo car.

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On 1/15/2019 at 5:44 AM, czny said:

Show us all your documentation if you really want to help. I say to you Naru - prove it!

 

Until then here's more info for you Jono:

https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11184923/airtex-6h1250.html#interchange

Thanks CZ, have seen this before and as soon as I see it fits Brats and Brumbies I suspect they have it wrong. But OK maybe turbo brat.

I have been in touch with both Standard Motor Products and AirtexWells - both were suppliers of this module but no longer. Both companies were good enough to reply

 

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On 1/16/2019 at 1:54 AM, czny said:

Naru,

You're right about those distrib caps for Nissan. What a cluster F of coil buttons etc inside. 8 plugs to foul & wires to go bad on an L4.

Was wasting my time waiting for freight delivery of a new hood & rear bumper for my 73 Chevy Nova.

Steptoe,

Might be easier to find a later distrib to mod for that EA81T knock control(?)

Those Subaru modules might be NOS somewhere......only a maybe.

I am hoping someone finds that haul of NOS or someone bought spare by Airtex and never installed

 

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22 hours ago, sparkyboy said:

My ea82t acts wonks under full boost at times. I suspect fuel pressure, but i also plan on bypassing the knock sensor. Good info on the nissan parts

@jono i have two dizzys I'll look at the modules but i can get my sorry as$ moving on my ej swap you got dibs on the modules.

That's what I like to hear ! There is enough hatred towards these old EA82 turbos someone must have bits they will never use and likely Chuck. I had mine fail and lucky Ausubaru92 parted with one of his and dispatched very quickly to get me rolling again

To have a spare onboard could be a life saver. Embarassing to be taken home on an all up lift tow truck. Lucky the ' hood was quiet at the time. Snuck the Brum into the shed quickly

Edited by Steptoe

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1 hour ago, carfreak85 said:

Do you have a factory service manual?  This will help you immeasurably, even if you swap the engine in the future.

Start by looking for the vacuum leaks, then look at your air filter.  Then go for spark plugs (check that gap!), plug wires/cap/rotor.  This is a new-to-you car, so before you start throwing money at it do some quick inspections to see how the consumable components look at this age.

EA turbos never ran modern fuel pressures, I think the max they hit is 36 psi (modern port injected systems run the 43 psi, while direct injection can be in the hundreds and diesel in the thousands).  You could try replacing the fuel filter and rubber fuel hoses.

You don't see boost in neutral because the engine isn't under load, so not enough airflow to produce boost.  A permanently mounted boost gauge is a must for any turbo car.

Both EA81Ts and EA82Ts run 43psi at full boost.

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4 hours ago, sparkyboy said:

Well, unless the intermittent issue of the car feeling like she hit a wall under high boost and going into limp mode is caused by something else like insufficient fuel pressure.

And the knock sensor in the car has been messed with, someone rewired a new one in and i can't confirm if it works by hitting the engine with a hammer.

Besides if i break something its ej time:lol: she does only have a little over 100,000 miles but she has had a rough life so far.

I have done this test just using ten inches of 1/2" extension socket to block. There is a single white connector female spade inside near coil. Black wire white trace. I used to have an LCD display in my GLTA where clock used to live. It was independent ly powered by SLA battery in glovebox and able to read as low as 1 Volt

Just ignition on should be 5V then engine running sits at 1.7V until knocks send reading up to 4.5V

Unsure what or if steps of Voltage are but have seen a few. As soon as Volts presented at this line end test connector I saw timing marks step back from 20 to 10 then once stopped induced knock seemed to quickly step back to 20 in 2 degree steps

I fitted new timing belts that sort of set timing off the scale by a few degrees. I already had it at 26°btdc so think I had 30?

Roadworks 40 kph speed zone and inconsiderate a flying past me so when it upped to 80 I was in second and stood on it getting there quick enough then pinged like nuts until I heard it, backed off and saw this big puff off smoke out tail pipe

 

I have since reset to 20° and no more ping. It never feels sluggish when knock Volts showed on Volt read out in dash

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5 minutes ago, naru2 said:

Both EA81Ts and EA82Ts run 43psi at full boost.

I thought fpralways kept pressures at 36 psi. Only once had gauge on when I suspected fuel pump. Idled at 36 but as soon as asked for boost it faltered and gauge read 10 psi going back to 36 at idle immediately. New pump resolved problem. Common problem for us not to diagnose when things are healthy  :)

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2 hours ago, carfreak85 said:

Ahhh, I don't think 85/86 even had a boost cut, so that's probably not your issue.  Do you have an FSM yet and have you looked up the troubleshooting tree for your condition?

I have no idea what you've disconnected, but our cars never had a blowoff valve.  The EA81Ts had a "pop off" valve that protected the engine from overboosting, but I'm not sure if EA82Ts had that as well.

I wouldn't worry about a vent-to-atmosphere bov, it's not going to help anything and may hurt drivability somewhat.  Get the engine in a good state of tune, then add an intercooler.

My Ausdm GLTA build date Sept 85 had a pair of solenoids right strut tower. One for green boosting now light in dash, other for over boost injector cut

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1 hour ago, sparkyboy said:

I suspect the fuel pump is an spfi or something, i had it on a cheap gauge and it read around 36 psi under boost. and i understand she needs around 43.5 (!?) Psi at full boost. My next step would be to get a real boost gauge.

Why is it a pain to spool up the turbo with no load? (In n?) That's how i read fuel pressure but i need to tape it to the windshield and recreate the issue and see what the gauge does...

Good times man. 

But i am keeping the flat hood hopefully i can get a bumper mount a t a intercooler! Na ej22 makes more power anyway and i can take my swap stuff off my gl for a quick and dirty swap :P

You don`t need to run your car at boost to check fuel pressure at boost.

I use a tire pump and an old subaru check valve to put 7 psi (full boost) on the pressure regulator vacuum line.Fuel pressure should then be 43psi.

Volume is important too.For a quick check,I remove the return line and measure the volume.

I think a fuel pressure gauge is more important than a boost gauge.I use an onboard  oil pressure gauge for fuel pressure

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14 minutes ago, Steptoe said:

I thought fpralways kept pressures at 36 psi. Only once had gauge on when I suspected fuel pump. Idled at 36 but as soon as asked for boost it faltered and gauge read 10 psi going back to 36 at idle immediately. New pump resolved problem. Common problem for us not to diagnose when things are healthy  :)

That is 36psi above intake pressue so about 28 at idle.36 not running and 43(36 +7) at full boost.

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