cfleckenstein Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I am in desperate need of a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 Wiring Harness and ECU in order to do a Volkswagen Vanagon Engine Swap. I have a custom made conversion kit through Kennedy Automotive out of Palmdale California that is made specifically for a 1985 Automatic Volkswagen Vanagon and a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 engine. I have the transmission conversion kit and the engine and everything else that came with the cutom conversion kit except for the wiring harness. Any help in locating the part would be MUCH appreciated. I am willing to pay for shipping handling and labor if anyone can find one in decent condition. I can't find any junkyards within hundreds of miles of my location that have this car in their yards. I need this specific engine wiring harness because the conversion company has a deal with the state of California that allows instant smog certification on these specific engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) Pick-n-Pull is my go-to yard because they have two locations here in Calgary. But they're California-based, and do an excellent job with their online database. Right now, they have six (6) 1994 EJ22 Legacys listed within not-unreasonable driving distance (250-350 mi) of you. Not close, but if you need it that badly, probably close enough - as in, you'll spend a day getting there, pulling it, and getting home. One car each in Modesto, Carson City, and Sparks. Three in Rancho Cordova. Unfortunately, no indication whether they're turbo or not (perhaps you can suss that from the VINs - I've never tried). Like any self-serve yard, time is of the essence, and how much of it you have depends on the yard. Here, the big yard (Barlow Trail) moves volume, so you have a couple of weeks to get what you want before the carcass gets crushed. The smaller one (52nd St) will keep a car in the yard much longer. If you're considering any of these, best to call ahead, confirm they still have the car, and find out what their particular TTL (time-to-live) policy is. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Zip=93535&Make=226&Model=4157&Year=1994&Distance=500 Edited January 22, 2019 by jonathan909 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Just found out that my parts car still has its harness. It might be a 1993 but to most of us here it’s got to be the same as the 1994. EJ22 Automatic Wagon AWD N/A Harness and engine still in car. It’s freezing here now so I know I’m not rushing up 90 miles to do this BUT if you can wait until I get a warm day and time to run up there I’ll help you out. ECU also still there. Car ran fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) Correct me if i am wrong here, but won't any 90-94 wiring harness work? The pinout says 90-94, and turbo car shouldn't matter. You can just add or subtract (or ground) pins as needed like for at/mt trans, turbo, or Calif. ID. Do it while trimming. Anyway cheers man! These swaps are fun! I have an ej22 (obd2) in my 86 GL and doing the swap again on my 85 xt, that wiring harness is obd1. It's oddly therapeutic to step away from part of a project like body, suspension, or engine work and sit down with with a pinout and wiring diagram, some wire cutters and a knife, good tunes and some brews. A little 420 if you are like me. I just cut my obd1 harness last weekend because i needed a break from body and interior work on my camaro. I am sure that you are familiar with busarus youtube channel, but he has links to loads of pinouts. I would love to put an ej22 in a bug or westy, in fact i almost bought a bettle for my extra ej22, (dune buggy!) but my xt came my way instead. Edited January 23, 2019 by sparkyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 18 hours ago, sparkyboy said: Correct me if i am wrong here, but won't any 90-94 wiring harness work? The pinout says 90-94, and turbo car shouldn't matter. 90 ECU for manual trans really needs to see the 2 pin IAC valve at the intake, rather than the 3 pin like all later. Auto is the 3 pin. Aside from that ECU's will work from 90-94 with any full harness from 90-94. The catch being, that 90,91 are 3 plug at engine.. 92-94 use 2 large connectors at the engine. So you're intake wiring needs to match the rest of the loom. Turbo vs. non-turbo the pin differences are in the position of the + and - wires to the Cam and Crank sensors So cannot use ECU from one with the other.....UNLESS.......You can swap the pins at the Cam or Crank sensor connector under throttle body to swap between turbo /non-turbo ecus. In theory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 (edited) 22 hours ago, FerGloyale said: 90 ECU for manual trans really needs to see the 2 pin IAC valve at the intake, rather than the 3 pin like all later. Auto is the 3 pin. Aside from that ECU's will work from 90-94 with any full harness from 90-94. The catch being, that 90,91 are 3 plug at engine.. 92-94 use 2 large connectors at the engine. So you're intake wiring needs to match the rest of the loom. Turbo vs. non-turbo the pin differences are in the position of the + and - wires to the Cam and Crank sensors So cannot use ECU from one with the other.....UNLESS.......You can swap the pins at the Cam or Crank sensor connector under throttle body to swap between turbo /non-turbo ecus. In theory. Good info there @fergloyale I have an ecu from a 99 forester that i compared to my 95 and the pin locations on the ecus are completely different, but the connectors are the same with the exception of color. If it were an emergency and i needed to match the connections with the proper pin so i could use the forester ecu with my 95 leggo harness, i would have some work to do, but it's possible to remove or add whatever you need. If something is screwy or acting weird you can take the little rubber piece out and connect the pin to the wire that way so there is no doubt. Sometimes there is corrosion you can't see, but this is rare with an ecu since its under the carpet. But if you happen to run into a problem where the headlights hi and low beam, running lamps don't work at all, but the passing light (pull back on the combo switch for hi and low beam) DOES work, don't pull out any relays, combo switches, hair, guns, liquor or hammers to start smashing s**t there is a white connector by the clutch that is exposed to a lot more corrosive effects and will not appear to have any problems, but it is just one pin at the corner that fails and you can't see it unless you look really close. I have seen it happen the exact same way twice. That's just an example of wiring wackiness to be aware of with our wacky rides. Another reason i have found the 90-94 harness a bit more straightforward because it is separated into four sections but it's mostly reading a pinout, labeling a wire, then trimming the fat. If you run into any nonsense with the two wire start/ three connector end you can just add the third wire and run it with the sheilded to the engine, and removing one almost always means grounded. Like the CA id for example is grounded everywhere else Oh one more thing, do not lose the brown double diode on the alternator pigtail, if you hook it back up backwards or without one, you will have spark but out of phase or something silly like that so the engine won't start, but will have all 3 things needed to run but won't, so save you a little confusion if you were unaware. Obd2 does not have that diode, and it's the only one on the entire obd1 car. Happy wrenching! And cutting, cursing, and taping. And smiling ear to ear like an idiot once the old vw starts purring with wiring all over the damn place and using two batteries! I love a vw with a ej. I almost bought a beetle for my swap but some stars out there aligned and an xt came my way Edited January 25, 2019 by sparkyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 2 hours ago, sparkyboy said: Happy wrenching! And cutting, cursing, and taping. It's a small point, but one that separates the knuckle-draggers from the pros: Do not use tape. Just don't. It's amateur and ugly and in time the adhesive turns to goo and you (or the person who deals with it later) will be filled with hate. Use heat-shrink tubing, and the clear stuff so you can see what's underneath. Your work will look like a million bucks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 (edited) On 1/24/2019 at 7:44 PM, jonathan909 said: It's a small point, but one that separates the knuckle-draggers from the pros: Do not use tape. Just don't. It's amateur and ugly and in time the adhesive turns to goo and you (or the person who deals with it later) will be filled with hate. Use heat-shrink tubing, and the clear stuff so you can see what's underneath. Your work will look like a million bucks. Right, i don't even use soldier and a failed butt joint caused me to lose ALL the electrical in my Camaro. Luckily I was in a safe place and found the problem at a trailhead in boulder. That butt joint was on there for at least 23 years cause I didn't do that! Haha Anyway 3m makes this neat electrical tape without adhesive so you can make sure everything is in order before shrink wrapping. And I just reuse the factory plastic looms and that rubber grommet fits perfect on the L body at least. That's the only place I use the sticky electrical tape, at the end of the looms but a nice metal zip toe would set her off! Cheers man, i didn't know they made clear shrink wrap! Edited January 27, 2019 by sparkyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Crimp butt splices are okay in a pinch, but they really don't have any place in building a proper harness. The tape you're talking about is self-fusing butyl rubber (same sort of stuff used for sealing windshields). You stretch it, then wrap it over itself, and it fuses into a single piece of rubber. I'm pretty fond of it because it doesn't leave any adhesive residue. The downside is that it's very soft and easy to chafe through, so you have to careful where you use it. And one of my earliest tool investments was a Panduit wire tie gun - it tensions the wire tie, then cuts it off cleanly, all in one pull of the trigger. You don't have to use one, but if you don't you'd better have a very good pair of flush cutters for cutting the free end off. There's a special place in hell reserved for people who don't, and instead leave sharp little stubs sticking out of the wire ties to lacerate the wrists of those who come later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Haha! Yea good times man! Oh and if i do zip toe em' up only my wrists will be cut, she's my first! (Ej swap project that is) so she'll be sticking around. Haha! Just more blood, sweat, and tears for the baby lion. I still remember how intimidated I was, I learned about efi was I went along basically, but at a show this guy was geeked on how nice she looked and wanted to know where the ecu was, well right here in the glove box! A fantastic place for an ecu, my bros e30 with s52 swap is the same way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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