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Just got a working cyclops 3rd eye setup for my 83 Brat GL. Have the original switch, but missing the original relay pcb. Also don't have the original 82 grille that matches the cyclops. Purchased a set of 87a relays and have read posts here how to wire these up using the original switch. Can someone please reply with a working, known to be good spec for getting this setup working? Also would be very interested in purchasing an original cyclops front grille. Thanks! 

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http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/3rdEye/using_center_light_w.htm

That should take care of your wiring.

What does your original grill look like?  I have the honeycomb grill and if you carve out the center you can get it to fit the center lamp really well, it's already the correct shape.

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On 1/23/2019 at 10:15 AM, carfreak85 said:

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/3rdEye/using_center_light_w.htm

That should take care of your wiring.

What does your original grill look like?  I have the honeycomb grill and if you carve out the center you can get it to fit the center lamp really well, it's already the correct shape.

Thanks for your help! I got a set of 87a relays from Amazon that are five pole can I use those or do you want me to get this relay? If so what is the part and where can I get one? I would rather use the "Center Light" original switch if I can rather than a dpdt switch. 

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1 minute ago, divinicus said:

Thanks for your help! I got a set of 87a relays from Amazon that are five pole can I use those or do you want me to get this relay? If so what is the part and where can I get one? I would rather use the "Center Light" original switch if I can rather than a dpdt switch. 

What do you want for the original honeycomb grill with shipping to 10301? Thanks! I should mention I have the original untouched slatted grill, see attached of original 82 grille designed for cyclops (pic is upside down, lol). 

20190123_084452.jpg

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Update I ordered an 8-pole dpdt relay like the one you pictured. Also just tested my unit with bench top dc power supply. Both the motor, acuator arm and even the original light work! I noticed the motor runs continually and assume the relay will tell it to cycle when the switch calls for power, raising the door, and when I power it off with the switch, that the motor will cycle to close the door. Really excited with the progress and thanks for the help! 

Edited by divinicus
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The motor contains the door park switch, IIRC, so once you get it wired in properly, the motor will tell the relay when to break the circuit, stopping the door.

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21 minutes ago, carfreak85 said:

The motor contains the door park switch, IIRC, so once you get it wired in properly, the motor will tell the relay when to break the circuit, stopping the door.

Thanks a lot for that info! BTW, I'm planning to use 18ga stranded hookup wire for this job, just got a special automotive crimping tool to get it heatshrinked together. I'll take some pics and post when it's finished up. 

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Here's 2 ways to do it.

No need for some fancy relay.

Simple, "anytime" setup.  Makes it so light can be operated at any time, regardless of Ig. or Lights.

25041691787_d7a5318c50_b.jpg02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

 

 

Here's a bit more complicated.  This setup would be only operational with Ig. key on.   The SPDT switch allows the lamp to be set to be open and on whenever lo beams are on, or to be on constantly whenever at least the marker lights are on.  

25041691447_26705e5b7b_b.jpg02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Edited by FerGloyale
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I saw those schematics, thanks! I could actually go either way being that I have both kinds of relays, but it seems to me the easiest way is with Chris' plan which seems like the easiest wiring job. Also it appears with his the cyclops can be used with either high or low beams, no need for a second auxiliary switch. Since I have an 83 Brat GL with four headlamps, I pity the poor driver in the opposite lane when the highs and cyclops are on together, lol! 

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6 minutes ago, carfreak85 said:

I wired my center lamp direct to the battery.

I hope with a fuse. lol

That's how the top diagram of mine would work.  Light can be on anytime.  Of course this means it could be left on and drain battery.

The second diagram more like how it would be from factory.  To go on with LO and off with HI beams. with the addition though of a SPDT switch to override and turn on Center lamp anytime.

 

FWIW, I don't think the it's legal to use the Center lamp as a "supplemental" lamp while HI beams are on.  Although it's painfully dim so it probably doesn't matter.

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1 hour ago, FerGloyale said:

I hope with a fuse. lol

That's how the top diagram of mine would work.  Light can be on anytime.  Of course this means it could be left on and drain battery.

The second diagram more like how it would be from factory.  To go on with LO and off with HI beams. with the addition though of a SPDT switch to override and turn on Center lamp anytime.

 

FWIW, I don't think the it's legal to use the Center lamp as a "supplemental" lamp while HI beams are on.  Although it's painfully dim so it probably doesn't matter.

I honestly don't remember if it's got a fuse, I wired it in over 15 years ago!

I could care less what the law says about forward lighting.  I'm much more conscious about blinding other motorists than the average driver.

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On 1/23/2019 at 10:15 AM, carfreak85 said:

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf

http://www.indysworld.com/subaru/general/USRM/3rdEye/using_center_light_w.htm

That should take care of your wiring.

What does your original grill look like?  I have the honeycomb grill and if you carve out the center you can get it to fit the center lamp really well, it's already the correct shape.

Chris, I just got the 8 pole relay and everything I need to start the hookup. I'm confused about three of the wires in the harness coming out of the cyclops, see attached and thanks! 

20190127_094637.jpg

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3 hours ago, divinicus said:

Chris, I just got the 8 pole relay and everything I need to start the hookup. I'm confused about three of the wires in the harness coming out of the cyclops, see attached and thanks! 

20190127_094637.jpg

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch.  One for open, one for close.  when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door.  when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops.

Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+.  I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving.  But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red.

I would ditch the 8 pole relay.  Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed.  is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay?  

Anyway, 1 or 2,  87A relays would be enough.  1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram.  The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.

 

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19 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch.  One for open, one for close.  when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door.  when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops.

Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+.  I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving.  But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red.

I would ditch the 8 pole relay.  Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed.  is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay?  

Anyway, 1 or 2,  87A relays would be enough.  1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram.  The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.

 

Thanks for your help, again! As I wrote earlier in this thread, I have both types of relays. According to Chris' DPDT Relay plan, he calls for the use of an 8-pole relay. I purchased two and they are very easy to source. 

For clarity's sake, I'm going to draw a schematic of my own, which follows the 8-pole DPDT Relay, the original wiring harness and the original "Center Lamp" switch. This way hopefully everything will be laid out for other folks to follow if, like me, they have the switch and the cyclops light but are missing the original factory relay PCB.

UPDATE: A friend offered to send me his original 82 Cyclops Front Grille! So as the job progresses I will upload photos and I hope this helps the group!

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40 minutes ago, divinicus said:

 

For clarity's sake, I'm going to draw a schematic of my own, which follows the 8-pole DPDT Relay, the original wiring harness and the original "Center Lamp" switch. This way hopefully everything will be laid out for other folks to follow if, like me, they have the switch and the cyclops light but are missing the original factory relay PCB.

 

 

There is not an 8 pole relay in the factory setup.  It's 5 pole IIRC, SPDT,  basically a japanese version of the 87A relay.  they were big and silver ovals like a small weird snuff can.  I don't bother using them when I find them.  

I cannot fathom why the heck you need 8 pins.  DPDT.....just not needed.  A single DT relay or even switch would work.

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30 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:

 

There is not an 8 pole relay in the factory setup.  It's 5 pole IIRC, SPDT,  basically a japanese version of the 87A relay.  they were big and silver ovals like a small weird snuff can.  I don't bother using them when I find them.  

I cannot fathom why the heck you need 8 pins.  DPDT.....just not needed.  A single DT relay or even switch would work.

Look at Chris' links near the top of this thread, there are two schematics and instructions for using the DPDT relay. Luckily I have a bench top 12v power supply to test everything before it is installed in my Brat. Will share my experiences as I go! 

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On 1/27/2019 at 1:34 PM, FerGloyale said:

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch.  One for open, one for close.  when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door.  when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops.

Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+.  I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving.  But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red.

I would ditch the 8 pole relay.  Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed.  is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay?  

Anyway, 1 or 2,  87A relays would be enough.  1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram.  The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.

 

Here is my drawing of proposed wiring for Cyclops, 8 pole DPDT relay and original switch. 

I made one mistake in the drawing, Black/red and Green/red wires in the harness are looped together. 

Please check over and let me know if all is correct. Thanks a lot! 

20190128_172534.jpg

Edited by divinicus
Mistake

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I think you mean 8 pin relay?.....  because a 2 pole double throw would need 8 pins, 2 for the coil, and 6 for the contacts. 

I have been thinking wtf does such a simple thing need an 8 pole Double Throw relay for.  For a few days...   8 pole refers to a switch or relay with 8 seprate sets of contacts.  Double Throw refers to a common terminal, and a normally closed and a normally open contact.  Also, an 8 pole relay is not a common thing, it would be really pricy. 

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3 hours ago, DaveT said:

I think you mean 8 pin relay?.....  because a 2 pole double throw would need 8 pins, 2 for the coil, and 6 for the contacts. 

I have been thinking wtf does such a simple thing need an 8 pole Double Throw relay for.  For a few days...   8 pole refers to a switch or relay with 8 seprate sets of contacts.  Double Throw refers to a common terminal, and a normally closed and a normally open contact.  Also, an 8 pole relay is not a common thing, it would be really pricy. 

Yes, two for the coil at the bottom and six contacts above it, one pair N.O., one pair N.C.,and 12v fed to top contacts. $12 for a pair of 'em with base disconnects in case it fails. And yes it is a 12v relay. 

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On 1/28/2019 at 10:12 AM, FerGloyale said:

 

There is not an 8 pole relay in the factory setup.  It's 5 pole IIRC, SPDT,  basically a japanese version of the 87A relay.  they were big and silver ovals like a small weird snuff can.  I don't bother using them when I find them.  

I cannot fathom why the heck you need 8 pins.  DPDT.....just not needed.  A single DT relay or even switch would work.

OK, I'm going to try your setup with 87a relay it seems simpler to me. 

I'll post again soon after I have the test wiring setup working - thanks again for your help! 

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On 1/27/2019 at 1:34 PM, FerGloyale said:

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch.  One for open, one for close.  when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door.  when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops.

Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+.  I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving.  But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red.

I would ditch the 8 pole relay.  Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed.  is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay?  

Anyway, 1 or 2,  87A relays would be enough.  1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram.  The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.

 

I finished the wiring job. When I powered up the relay the first time, the door opened and locked open, does that mean I have to reverse the green and green white wires? Thanks for all the help! 

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7 minutes ago, divinicus said:

I finished the wiring job. When I powered up the relay the first time, the door opened and locked open, does that mean I have to reverse the green and green white wires? Thanks for all the help! 

Yes.  The "close" wire,  Green/white, should go to the normally closed, or 87a terminal.  

Green wire should get power from 87 terminal when relay is activated by dash switch.

Edited by FerGloyale

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