tropicalfrost Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Hi everyone! Long time reader, first time poster. New owner of an '83 BRAT! I'm not a mechanic so please bear with me and try not to judge me too much over here! Got this truck recently and a mechanic friend suggested I switch out the ignition coil for a newer one. There was nothing wrong with the one it had, but he said it looked old and was basically a "why not" kind of thing, and simple to do myself. I followed advice from another post on here by someone with an '84 BRAT. Two yellow wires to negative, three black wires to positive. Found that post because i could have sworn there were only 4 wires there when I started! I only unhooked positive side of the battery, and disconnected the plug and wires for the coil. When trying to loosen the lower bolt for the strap that is around the coil, the other end of the wrench also touched positive battery terminal. It sparked, I jumped back. Finished up with the whole battery removed. When I tried to start it, it sounded normal for half a second then just clicked. Lights still work, no fuses blown (I only looked at the ones inside by the steering wheel, if there are more please let me know,) but now it just clicks once per attempt, no sound like it's about to start. Did I damage the battery by shorting it? Everything I've searched so far makes it sound like the wrench didn't have long enough contact for that to be the case, and when my battery has died on past cars the symptoms were different. I'd try jumping it but am being wary in case there's something else I did wrong, possibly with the ignition coil or another part becoming damaged when I shorted it? Do I feel so dumb? Yes. From now on i'm going to be following some good advice I already knew: If it aint broke, dont break it! I appreciate any help with this. Thanks for a great forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Test the battery with a voltmeter to see if it's dead. May need to recharge it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 A general thing - when you want to disconnect the battery, ALWAYS disconnect the negative first, and move the wire away from the battery. The reason is that if you slip with the wrench, the only thing that is dangerous to hit is the positive terminal. IF you remove the positive first, Every piece of metal nearby is a possible short waiting to happen. Your spark sounds like it happened the other way around, but if the negative had been disconnected, you could hit the positive all day to the car body and nothing would happen. Just another piece of basic info - the big terminal on the back of the alternator is almost as dangerous as the positive battery terminal, so if you ever have to do anything with that, again, disconnect the negative battery post, and you are safe. I quick short circuit / spark probably didn't hurt the battery. If it was old and iffy, maybe - I just had one die when I tried to start my car. It will light the lights and stuff, but starter it can't handle. It's a good idea to draw little sketches [and / or take pictures] of things like this before you disconnect the wires, especially if you don't have a second identical car to check for reference... Someone on here with a Brat will likely be able to help sort out the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 one day I am going to insulate a 13 mm open end spanner for this job. You aren't the first nor last to do this.Fusible links are found just a few inches from battery in a black plastic holder screwed to inside of engine bay near edge. They are a master fuse originally red or green silicone like coloured fabric loops. Check them for integrity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Zhiemer Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Volt meter won't necessarily show a dead battery, it may still show that the battery is holding 12 volts but won't tell you if the battery has a collapsed cell. Best way to really tell is to have your battery load tested. Recharge your battery and then take it down to an automotive electrician and get them to test it, this will show whether or not the battery is holding enough charge to start your car. More than likely, when you shorted the battery it has discharged it and all it needs is a good charge and see how it goes. Cheers, Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George1943 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Sounds like you need to clean your battery posts. Also, I agree with DaveT, always disconnect the negative first and if both are disconnected, connect the negative last. I learned that lesson by experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 +1 Nothing blew. You have a bad battery connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropicalfrost Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) I just had the battery tested and it's at 100%. It's a pretty new battery so I was being hopeful that it had drained. What would I look for to see if the fusible links are blown? The fabric casings look undamaged, the ends looked slightly discolored perhaps. Someone else suggested I check the starter relay with a multimeter so I'll do that next as well. Thanks for all the responses! Edited January 31, 2019 by tropicalfrost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropicalfrost Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 Just noticed when I turn the key to power (just the lights, not to start the car) there is a pretty steady buzzing noise from under the hood. I cant really determine where it's coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiBrumby Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 On 1/31/2019 at 4:07 AM, naru2 said: +1 Nothing blew. You have a bad battery connection. My bet would be that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropicalfrost Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Seems to be fixed! Fusible links and starter. After pulling back the housing on the fusible links I could see all three were blackened somewhat, the red one closest to battery being the worst, and the gray plastic cover for them had a blackened ring around the inside. They arent entirely broken as far as I can tell, but if theyre not the problem they dont look good enough to keep, either. Since fusible links dont seem to be sold anymore, I used instructions from another thread (link below) and switched them out for 30A (substitute for red fusible links) and 20A (sub for green) cartridge fuses. People in that thread are talking about snagging these from the junk yard, so I'll also mention that at the store they told me I could use wire to connect Female Quick Disconnects (same ends that are on the fusible links) to 30 and 20 regular fuses same as what's inside the car. That could be nice because then the original cover would still fit. It doesnt fit over the cartridge fuses I bought, but I'll keep them as is for now. After switching these out the starter was still just clicking, and there was still buzzing coming from there when the key is in the headlights position. Wacking the starter with a hammer while attempting to start the engine got it trying to turn, which is how we diagnosed the bad starter. I dont understand how it got damaged all the way down there with positive battery and ignition coil disconnected, but replacing it did the trick. The buzzing under the hood near starter is still there when key is in headlight position. Thanks for all the responses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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