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MAF OEM vs Aftermarket 93 legacy ls 2.2 auto

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Apologies if this is already somewhere... couldn't find any info.

Having MAF symptoms on my subievan (and it's one of the few parts that were not replaced w new during swap).

Been trying to navigate the bewildering options out there in the retail world, and anticipate that anything for $20 is a bad idea. Ha-Ha "lifetime" warranty right. you spend a lifetime trying to get a replacement when it fails?

Are reman units any good? if so, whose? There are many New from the $79.00- $400 range. Delphi, Cardone, Hitachi, etc. 

I know pick a part is a favorite source for users, but the failed part was essentially from a junker, and it lasted 6000 miles. I want a part that will last  and work optimally. 

Are there any suggestions, comments, warnings to consider in this purchase? 

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Subaru is so finicky with the MAF sensors that a junkyard replacement is the most cost effective since they rarely go bad. Aftermarkets often do not work at all and OEM Subaru is really expensive.

If you have an oiled cone filter on your engine that may have led the faliure

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Guise, Thanks for your insights and offer.

 

Matt, I'm using the paper element from Kennedy, and yeah, agree that K&N would be a poor usage, adjacent to the MAF.

 Used K&N with a pair of Webers on my D.D. for many years, but that's a totally different (caveman) approach....

3Pin, What's your price for a good used part? It would help to confirm my diagnosis and be a good spare even if I do decide to buy a new one later.

General Dis, Yeah, that's my tendency. Get 'em while they're available.  They are spendy, but wondering Is Hitachi Japan a workable MAP, or also crap?

                        It's also nice to know there are other workable options should push come to shove. 

 

Thanks Again!

 

NL

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I went speed density on my Trans Am precisely because you can't find decent MAF's for it anymore. And the MAP sensor is like a $10 part available everywhere. Same with the IAT. Also you remove one more restriction from the intake, and simplify the plumbing. It's a no brainer to go with the 20G and ESL if you are looking at spending hundreds on a MAF. Just delete the silly thing and get full tuneability for any future upgrades.

GD

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It's pretty much a plug and play - you will have to swap the cam and crank sensor pins, and merge a ground for one of the temp sensors that's shared on the 20G ECU. I think the ESL board and cable/software is around $550 from the UK, and then you can use any 20G ECU - even from an automatic car. You can usually get the job done yourself for around $700 with an ECU. Then you can either tune it yourself or hire someone with a dyno, etc. 

http://www.enduringsolutions.com/

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder

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