ABS VDC light on dash, when brake is pushed....

[BabyFace Fitz]

I've done some searching but kind find the trick.  My dash is ABS and VDC light on, no codes.  I found on the 1157 double filament bulb was toast  and the 10 amp fuse for the TAIL-ClEARANCE blown.  Replaced fuse and bulb.  The driver side bulb  will illuminate the driving light but when the brake pedal is pressed, that one filament goes out.  The passenger 1157 bulb works fine.  Fuse stays good.  I switched out bulbs and it's the socket.  thanks in advance.

[nipper]

Sockets do go bad with time. 

 

I am guessing your cruise control may be angry too. A wheel speed sensor s not happy. Either a broken tone ring or bad sensor, A broken tone ring wont throw a code. Also those codes are not part of the OBDII system so it wont throw any code with a regular reader. Its a common fault mode.

[BabyFace Fitz]

Thank you Nipper, I'll check to see what mood my cruise control is in tmr.  I'll see if my friend that works at a stealership has a more detailed reader, and I plan to replace the bulb socket.

 

[FerGloyale]

11 hours ago, BabyFace Fitz said:

Thank you Nipper, I'll check to see what mood my cruise control is in tmr.  I'll see if my friend that works at a stealership has a more detailed reader, and I plan to replace the bulb socket.

 

What you are seeing is the ground wire for that socket is not connecting well to the bulb.  With just the amps of a single, low watt filament being pulled, it cn complete the path (tail light works)  But then when you ask it to conduct the amps of BOTH filaments pulling, it fails (both lights go out) 

usually pulling the socket apart, and cleaning the tab that grounds the bulb to the wire, is sufficient.  Sometimes bending that contact tab out a hair does the trick.

I wouldn't replace the socket unless it's very rusty.

 

[BabyFace Fitz]

The cruise works.  The bulb socket had a little road salt but looked good. I cleaned and bent the socket, still running light goes out with brake pushed on, and then comes back. I switched wires from driver/passenger and it still has the issue.  I checked the wires and they look good. With my multimeter and narrowed it down to the spot where the wire should contact the socket, the wire is not connected fully to the socket.  I considered trying to solder the wire to the socket. I think I'll go to junk yard and get another set. thanks Nipper and FerGloyale.

[BabyFace Fitz]

Well the bulbs work, but the ABS and VDC light is still on. 

Cut just a bit of the plastic out of the way and with a couple of soldering attempts, and eventually got electrical continuity. 

How do I get the ABS/VDC lights off.  Is that a sign I have another issue?

 

Edited March 28, 2019 by BabyFace Fitz
The ABS/VDC lights are still on. more info has been added.

[Mike104]

Probably means there is an ABS fault code stored in the ABS control unit.  Since your year and model aren't listed I can't tell you how to pull the code from the ABS unit

You can check this thread out

 

Edited March 29, 2019 by Mike104

[BabyFace Fitz]

thanks Mike, it's a 2001 OBW H6.

 

[nipper]

 

[BabyFace Fitz]

Thanks guys, it will be a couple of days before I can go dash swimming.

[BabyFace Fitz]

Found the wires, it took a couple of tries.  The green unplugged helped me find the bundle. From the factory those wires are bound tight to the wire group.  I'd want help confirming the count. I am unsure if a count every flash.    The pattern repeats, and is made of long flashes (I) and short ones (i) and spaces..   Here's my break down. Long one, short one, space, , 7 long, 1short, space,  7long, 4 short, space,  four long, 9 short then quickly repeat.  If I count all of them I get 34,  Front left outlet valve?