POR 15 - what it can not, and can do...?

[idosubaru]

I'm not looking for blanket statements or anecdotes - I understand restoration guys hate POR 15 because rust has one solution - cut it out - I get that for their line of work.  But they say it's terrible, so clearly it's not the magic in a can that some people profess. All of which is no shock. 

So what's a healthy understanding of what POR 15 can, and can not do, for us practical folks daily driving Subaru's for a few decades?  I don't want to avoid it if it can help sometimes but I don't want to waste time either for a "maybe"

[1 Lucky Texan]

not sure about that product specifically, but I think the idea behind the chemistry is to create a layer of iron phosphate.

 

there's this; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_converter

 

i dunno anything else, lurking for opportunity to learn.....

 

Edited April 9, 2019 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Numbchux]

This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, but it's fantastic stuff. I always keep it around (it doesn't store well, but you can buy 6-packs of little 4oz cans), and I use it on almost everything I take apart (brake calipers, control arms, etc.), remove loose stuff with a wire wheel on a grinder, and then use their cleaning and prep chemicals. 2 years ago I used an HVLP gun to spray it on the frame of my old 4Runner.

 

2 hours ago, idosubaru said:

I understand restoration guys hate POR 15

 

Not necessarily. What really convinced me, is there's a company up in Canada that does fiberglass restoration panels for old Toyota trucks (www.toyotafiberglass.com , not the greatest website). He posts progress pictures on a lot of his jobs on yotatech, and he's using POR15 CONSTANTLY.

Here's a relatively recent one. Rear quarter panels on a 4Runner. Here's what he found when the original quarters were peeled off:

And here's after POR15 on all that inner structure:

He gets good money for these jobs, and is booked out YEARS. 

 

 

Here's his show truck, 83 Trekker with a supercharged Tacoma 3.4, and the frame and all running gear in POR15:

Edited April 9, 2019 by Numbchux

[DaveT]

I use por15.  Used it on the bead area on steel rims.  Only have to add air a couple times a year now.

Use it on steel parts that can be entirely encapsulated by it.  

It is incredibly tough.  I used some on my loader backhoe.   As a base to tie to the rust.  Then their tie coat primer to the final top coat color.  Follow ALL of the instructions - get the printable ones from the website.  I have bumped / nudged big logs (like half a tree ) with a painted area on the side of the loader bucket, and the color layer and prime rubbed off, but the underlying por15 is undamaged.  The force involved would have caved in a body panel on a car.

 

I have used it on rust spots on my loyales.  So far so good.  But also key in this, is using Waxoyl on the inside of the areas.  Have to stop the moisture from getting in from both sides.

[BEECHBM69]

Having used both POR15 and just good quality rattle can paint over a number of years on a truck I drive on the beach all the time, I can say: My personal experience is the POR15 doesn't hold up any longer than the primer/ paint, and is a hell of a lot more expensive. 

I won't be buying it again. 

Dan

[idosubaru]

3 hours ago, Numbchux said:

This might fall in the category of anecdote more than you were looking for, 

 

you're good, I know you can think and dialogue through things and have gobs of experience

interesting.  makes sense - prep is critical and variables are many. 

[Numbchux]

17 hours ago, idosubaru said:

prep is critical and variables are many. 

Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).

[andrsn]

I've used a lot of different methods for rust removal. Mostly for smaller parts and motorcycle gas tanks. I have to agree in saying that if you follow the instructions you can get great results. I also use vinegar and electrolysis for rust removal, both of which take a bit longer but can be just as effective. But typically when I'm doing rust removal I do the following:

1. brush/scrape/sand off rust as best as possible

2. use a rust remover - POR15, vinegar bath or electrolysis for as long as necessary

3. use an etching product to prep surface for paint or sealers depending on the method used to de-rust (POR15 Metal Prep is usually what I use)

4. apply primer/sealer etc...

Other products to check out that I've found nice to have on hand over the years:

RedKote - I have found it to be far far far superior to all other tank sealing products. Kreem is the absolute worst, POR15 is ok, but ReKote works soooo much better. Don't waste your time with the other brands, just not worth the headache that can ensue if every step isn't 100% perfectly executed. 

Penetrol - This is a paint additive (thinner/reducer/sealer) and a favorite of mine. On its own, it is a great clear sealer. I've used it on all kinds of outdoor metal project that I want to keep from rusting or stop rusting where it is and keep a 'patina'. It takes forever to dry but dries smooth and hard. Its also great in its intended use as a paint additive, I've had excellent luck getting decent looking and durable brush paint jobs on metal.

Japan Drier - This is great for expediting drying times of oil based paints, can be used in conjunction with Penetrol but it still seems to take forever to dry.

Rustoleum oil based metal primer/paints - These are compatible with the above items and are great to have around when you just want something to be kinda close in color but mostly just don't want it to rust again. I keep a can of primer around and a can of each Yellow/Blue/Red so I can mix stuff to get whatever color I need. 

 

***Above all, read all product directions and product compatibility