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carfreak85

EA82 HVAC Fan Dies When Ignition Turned Off

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A little background:

My RX has no A/C.  The passenger's side window wiring is damaged and sometimes doesn't like to roll back up, so I don't use it.  In the heat we're starting to get around Seattle this means driving with the HVAC fan on high with the driver's side window open to stay cool.

Last week I noticed that after parking for a quick errand, when I got back in and restarted the car, the blower fan simply refused to turn on.  Fan speed doesn't matter, HVAC mode doesn't matter, HVAC temperature doesn't matter.

It seems that if I leave the car sitting the fan will eventually come back to life, but there is nothing you can do in the meantime (once it took a full day to come back, just yesterday it only took an hour).

I did some research, found this thread, but was wondering if anyone has experienced this issue in the past and could save me some troubleshooting time.

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Your title sounds a little deceptive to me....sounds like you are saying it will not blow in ACC key position. Am I reading correct that once you switch running engine ignition switch to off and likely pull keys out...when go to restart engine the blower fan not work until later, when possibly it has cooled down?

It is old and wearing, but not worn out? My RX had in its past life leaks below front windscreen rusty holes or maybe water entering the fan motor via air ducting and would blow fuses and just die. The water used to get at it by the cooling air rubber elbow at the low end. I risked not getting that cooling tube directing air at the brushes? to allow any moisture just drain to the carpet if ever. No more problems.

If you suspected other wirrres or switches maybe bypass everything and power direct at full blast temporarily?

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If I've been driving with the fan on for an extended period, then stop the car and shut off the engine, when I get back in the car the fan will not work in any key position.

Not sure about water intrusion on the windscreen, I'll have to look for evidence of leaks, but I don't expect that to be the problem.

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Maybe that little rubber elbow that looks to be diverting some air from the fan to the brushes of the fan motor - check is still there, connected and free from internal blockage. 

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I'm not sure what you're referencing, but I'll have to take a look.  Temps are starting to climb around here and that car would be miserable without at least a fan...

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Either the brushes are going or you have a dead spot on one of the poles of the windings. It heats up while running and opens. The inertia of the motor will keep it running until you shut it down and then it won't run again until it cools down. I've seen this many times before with all types of blower motors. You could also have a blower resistor that's going bad or the connector at the resistor. Check power and and at the motor when it happens. If you've got both, bad motor.

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But if only the resistor was going bad, it would still run on speed 4, right?

What's a good way to test/inspect the motor and brushes?

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True, it should still work on high. You really can't inspect them short of tearing it apart and I've never done one so I don't know if it's possible without ruining it. The next time it dies on you, jumper 12v right to it and see if it comes back on.

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