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Jack Stand Location UPDATE [see 9th post]


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I would like to lift the 2014 from the jack point in the picture, and then put a Jack Stand under the pinch point.  I need to lift 3 3/4 inches.  Do you think that this lift point would support the car without deforming?   The jack would be right on bolt head shown in picture.  The photo is taken looking toward the front of the car. 

Outback Jack point.jpg

Edited by mikec03
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11 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Do NOT use a jack stand on the pinch weld. You will collapse it. Use the jack on the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the frame rail. 

GD

+1

the scissor jack is made to fit over that pinch weld.  That's what the slot is for.  

Although, since I see you are in Wisconsin, lifting from the pinch may be risky.  Don't know how much rust yer car has.

you should get a good floor jack, and lift from the center of the front crossmember, then put your jack stands at the point you have pictured above.

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11 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Do NOT use a jack stand on the pinch weld. You will collapse it. Use the jack on the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the frame rail. 

GD

yup, seems that i always have to grab a pair of channel locks and bend the pinchweld all along the side of the car on both sides whenever i buy another vehicle, not just Subaru's.

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Quote

Do NOT use a jack stand on the pinch weld. You will collapse it. Use the jack on the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the frame rail. 

I'm sorry that I didn't explain in my original post.  My jack stands have hard rubber adaptors that I bought so that they fit the pinch points better then the scissor jack.

The problem with the floor jack is that the cheap ones [less then $100] are designed for a lift to only 13 inches which is hardly enough,  and there are questions on the internet if they actually can get that high and hold the height long enough to get a floor jack under the car.  And anyway, in the case of using the floor jack on the front crossmember, where would the floor jacks be positioned?  Is the position that I show the frame rail?

While it's not totally relevant to this discussion, is everyone aware that the dealership is using the pinch points to lift the cars without special adaptors?  Of course these are nearly new cars but still?

Edited by mikec03
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When you use an actual lift, the lift arms have rubber pads that spread the load on the pinch across about a 5" length. These pads have to be replaced periodically as the pinch welds from hundreds of cars eventually cut through them. Ask my ebay account - I have bought about 50 of them for my lifts. I own 5 - used to own 6 but ripped one out for a 2000 HP chassis dyno. I might know what I'm talking about BTW.

I would not trust a rubber pad perched atop a jack stand. That's suicidally stupid. 

The scissor jack is really for emergency use to change the tire - is only designed to lift the car till the tire clears the ground. It is not a service tool, and will not hold up to that use. After a few dozen uses you will wear it out. 

The floor jack goes on the "Jacking Plate" that is designed expressly for this purpose. It is located directly aft of the oil pan. 

You have a 2014 - buy a proper jack ya cheapskate! 

Or - there's about 3000 lbs of DEATH awaiting you. Please film it for YouTube. 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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4 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

 

The floor jack goes on the "Jacking Plate" that is designed expressly for this purpose. It is located directly aft of the oil pan. 

 

 

Exactly.  And in the rear it goes under the rear diff.

 

7 hours ago, mikec03 said:

 

The problem with the floor jack is that the cheap ones [less then $100] are designed for a lift to only 13 inches which is hardly enough,  and there are questions on the internet if they actually can get that high and hold the height long enough to get a floor jack under the car.  And anyway, in the case of using the floor jack on the front crossmember, where would the floor jacks be positioned?  Is the position that I show the frame rail?

 

 

IDK, what you are talking about here.  Floor jacks are way more reliable, stronger, and safer than the scissor jack.  GD is right.  scissor jacks are for emergency use, a few times.

Get yourself a floor jack.  one like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-64260.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTg3OTgzOTciLCJza3UiOiI2NDI2MCIsImlzIjoiNzQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMTI5ODAifQ%3D%3D

or even better, this ..... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916440

I've got 1 of each, and one more older 3-ton "CarQuest" that's basically like the Harbor frieight above, but a little better quality.

Any one of them is far safer than the scissor jack.  And all of them can lift to 16+ inches.  And if that isn't high enough just slap a chunk of 2x6 or 4x6 ontop of the jack before lifting.  But seriously, I can lift my EA81 wheeler with 31s" on it with the Carlyle jack no probs.

Edited by FerGloyale
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Do yourself a ffavor and buy one of these: Arcan Jack on Amazon.   The long reach makes it MUCH easier to use.  Yes, it costs more than a basic jack, but it makes reaching the under-body lift points much easier and the 24" lift makes it easy to get some room to work underneath.  Once you try one, you'll be spoiled for life and curse yourself for not having ought it sooner.

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we have one of the harbor freight floor jacks and it will lift your car plenty high enough.

It will even lift our dodge 4x4 pu high enough to take a wheel off, and you can get under that on a creeper without lifting it on a jack at all.. only need the jack to pull a wheel.

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Thanks for the replies.  I especially appreciate FerGloyale who corrected my understanding and also provided a link.  And wonders of wonders, Harbor Freight accepted the print out of the link that FerGloyale provided, so I could buy the floor lift at a sale price.  Thank you.

So I put new pads on the front of my 2014 subaru.  I'm still a little curious of where people put the jack stands, but in my case i use the pinch welds with a hard rubber insert on the jack stand as shown on the attached photo.  It works great and is very stable.  It doesn't do the pinch weld any harm.

IMG_20190605_130508546 (3).jpg

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the jackstand should go under the subframe. using the pinchweld area where the emergency jack is used is never a good idea - even with the blocks.

You want the jackstand positioned in a solid area that will support the weight of the vehicle - the pinchweld is not designed for that.

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The frame rail is a rectangular tube of unibody that runs from front to back.  Shown roughly mid picture.  There are two.  Runs parallel to the pinch weld.  I have used both with jackstands.  Always give the car a good shake before crawling under.  Just my ritual.  For rust belt cars I place a block of dense hardwood under the frame rail to spread out the load.

IMG_20190609_145841024.jpg

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