EJ22 rebuild

[ClassySoob]

Hey guys,

Ive got an up coming rebuild on my EJ22 engine. I bought the engine and swapped it in with I think 170k miles. Once it was all running, I noticed it burns oil and blows bluish sliver smoke out the exhaust sometimes (especially coasting downhill in gear, then acclerating is when it blows smoke the most). But I've drove it to get me by, but now I want to address the issue. I think it may be bad rings or valve steam seals. Doesn't really feel like it has any loose of compression. This will be my first 2.2 rebuild, so I'm looking for any advise. What should I looks for while tearing down this engine? How are the cylinder walls and pistons usually? When I did the rebuild on my old EA82 with over 200k miles, the cylinders were still in excellent condition with the factory cross hatching still visible. I hoping to get by with out having to reboar the cylinders to a bigger size. Any advise would help greatly. Thank you for reading!!!

[el_freddo]

You’ll see the same cross hatching in your EJ engine. 

Probably best to post in the EJ to present models subforum for best results with answers. 

Most will probably tell you to get a good second hand unit. But they’re easy enough to work on. 

Provided you haven’t broken any rings or ring landings, the bores should be fine. 

You could also try replacing the PCV valve so see if that changes the oil burning. 

Also do a compression check, why repalce rings etc if it’s just valve stem seals? This could be done without removing the heads with the right tools too. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[idosubaru]

Ideally you diagnose first. It’s almost always rings before valve stem seals. But a swapped engine with unknown history can surprise anyone  

Rering it, don’t hone or touch the cylinders and don’t split the block. 

[ClassySoob]

35 minutes ago, el_freddo said:

You’ll see the same cross hatching in your EJ engine. 

Probably best to post in the EJ to present models subforum for best results with answers. 

Most will probably tell you to get a good second hand unit. But they’re easy enough to work on. 

Provided you haven’t broken any rings or ring landings, the bores should be fine. 

You could also try replacing the PCV valve so see if that changes the oil burning. 

Also do a compression check, why repalce rings etc if it’s just valve stem seals? This could be done without removing the heads with the right tools too. 

Cheers 

Bennie

Okay, I'll test the compression first. I compared the weight of the legacy outback and the GL, the GL is almost 1000 pounds lighter than the legacy. So I might not be able to tell a lose of compression, so I'll have to rent a compression tool and test them out. Thanks!!!

[el_freddo]

WEight has nothing to do with engine compression testing. You need a compression gauge for sure. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[88SubGL]

You said you see some smoke coasting and then see more smoke when you accelerate after you were coasting? If that’s correct, then it’s valve related. When you’re coasting the engine creates more vacuum, pulling oil by the valves and into the cylinder, then when you accelerate you burn the excess oil and you see it more out your tailpipe. You may also see smoke when you first start it up in the morning. If it’s rings, you will see smoke every time you accelerate from a stop sign or traffic light. 

[ClassySoob]

56 minutes ago, 88SubGL said:

You said you see some smoke coasting and then see more smoke when you accelerate after you were coasting? If that’s correct, then it’s valve related. When you’re coasting the engine creates more vacuum, pulling oil by the valves and into the cylinder, then when you accelerate you burn the excess oil and you see it more out your tailpipe. You may also see smoke when you first start it up in the morning. If it’s rings, you will see smoke every time you accelerate from a stop sign or traffic light. 

I don't really see it while coasting downhill only  when I press on the gas after. It's does puff some smoke when I start it up sometimes (not all the time) but usually that one puff is all and it stops. 

[ClassySoob]

I Posted this same post in the 90s to Present page, but they have yet to answer me. 

[88SubGL]

It’s valves not rings. Do a valve job and call it good. Unless you’re just wanting to rebuild it. Like you found in the EA82, the cylinders don’t seem to wear bad in Subaru’s.

[idosubaru]

If it's the valves can he drop the exhaust headers down and look for oil in the exhaust ports for an easy test/diagnosis?  Subaru valves don't seem to loose much oil very often so I'd be hesitant to just dive into a headjob without diagnosing it.

I assume this is an older 1998 or earlier EJ22 - if so those heads are insanely easy to swap in the vehicle.  All the head bolts are external, it's about the easiest Subaru head job ever.   Isolate which head is bad and you can just do that one side.   remove, resurface, repair valves/stem seals, clean up block and install a Subaru gasket. 

 

[FerGloyale]

Replace the rings while the heads are off.

Otherwise, you will do a valve job and then be pissed when the engine still smokes.

Don't hone the cyls.  Don't split the block.

 

[ClassySoob]

So I compression tested each cylinder today. I went  7 strokes on each cylinder a couple times each. On the first stroke each cylinder started at around 100psi, then went up to the peak numbers. Here are my results 

Cyl #1: 150psi

Cyl #2: 153psi

Cyl #3: was low first test, about 125 psi then went up to 140 psi on previous test.

Cyl#4: 155 psi.

My book says that the compression should be in between 156psi and 185 psi. So these numbers are lower. I inspected the spark plugs and all looked like normal oxidization, but #3 was a lil more corroded then the rest. 

23 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:

Replace the rings while the heads are off.

Otherwise, you will do a valve job and then be pissed when the engine still smokes.

Don't hone the cyls.  Don't split the block.

I'll have to inspect the bearings while I'm in there. If there is any wear on them I might as well replace them while I'm this far. How easy is it to remove the pistons without splitting the block?

 

[idosubaru]

150 is indeterminate with all 3 of them being the same - that's excellent consistency.  compression is a function of RPM and often you can't control for that or even know what it is while cranking.  throttle plate needs propped open, battery needs to be strong and fire that thing around like a beast, does that EJ22 have HLA's..etc.  

I would assume those three are fine, or indeterminate  - and the 3rd one is the problem child.  Sure - maybe do additional tests on those 3 or try to test it again with wide open air flow/throttle and extra battery juice from a jump starter, but that's not immediately shocking without additional tests.  The consistency of 3 may be more telling than the singular number due to environmental/testing variations. 

as for swapping piston rings - two shops owners on here do it plenty.  these guys know their stuff and are into these exact motors multiple times a month year after year. GD says don't split the block and usually has really good, data driven reasons for his choices.  what's he's said in this regard makes sense.  

[el_freddo]

If it’s not knocking don’t “inspect” the bearings. 

Piston heads come out by pulling the gudgeon pins out through the side access hole. This leaves the conrod on the crank and the bottom end intact. 

8 hours ago, 88SubGL said:

You said you see some smoke coasting and then see more smoke when you accelerate after you were coasting? If that’s correct, then it’s valve related. When you’re coasting the engine creates more vacuum, pulling oil by the valves and into the cylinder, then when you accelerate you burn the excess oil and you see it more out your tailpipe. You may also see smoke when you first start it up in the morning. If it’s rings, you will see smoke every time you accelerate from a stop sign or traffic light. 

I had this same thing on an EA82 ages ago, but no smoke when usually driving or coasting. But throttling on after coasting down a decent hill created a serious smoke screen. The engine was pulled down years after it was swapped out - we found failed ring landings and cracked rings on at least one cylinder. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Steptoe]

3 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

Replace the rings while the heads are off.

Otherwise, you will do a valve job and then be pissed when the engine still smokes.

Don't hone the cyls.  Don't split the block.

 

Read this don't hone , before. How come?

[el_freddo]

24 minutes ago, Steptoe said:

Read this don't hone , before. How come?

 http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm 

If you want more information I reckon General Disorder sums it up here quite well:

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited August 15, 2019 by el_freddo