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Rock hard clutch (SOLVED: Pedal box)


fuji4x4
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Alright guys, I've been trying to figure out this issue on my own as well as help from several mechanic friends and TONS of research on the forums but it's finally requiring me to make a post. 

I have an 84 EA81 4wd GL. Came to me completely stock.

Once clutch was replaced the clutch cable snapped (old cable what ever) I replaced the cable and it was still hard but shifted... For almost 300 miles. For those 300 miles I kept having to adjust it closer and closer until the TOB has to be grinding on the flywheel to get enough leverage to push the PP in.

I thought maybe it was a malfunctioning PP I got so I bought an all new nicer clutch kit.   

STILL ROCK HARD CLUTCH

I've read hundreds of threads searching the replies for my golden ticket as to why my clutch is hard as rock to push in.

I've gone through and tested each component independently. 

Pedal>Cable>Fork>TOB>PP>Disk>Flywheel

Cable routed correctly, no pressure unless trying to actuate clutch.

Pressure plate just too hard to actuate!

Only thing I can think of is something wrong with the fork or TOB (which is new and properly greased)

My entire body weight pressing against the clutch pedal is ALMOST enough to actuate the clutch. 

There's got to be something simple I'm skipping over 

Out of the hundreds of threads I've had to of read by now, my issue seems to mirror the one found unresolved in this thread https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138371-hard-clutch-pedal/?tab=comments#comment-1164388

 

Edited by fuji4x4
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Better give us the part number of the clutch kit for knowledgables to compare

You get quicker at pulling the clutch out don't you?

Compared each part old with new?

The size hole where all fingers meet same?

And where TOB contacts fingers? Same spot close to end of fingers?

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Difference between EA81 and EA82 is a 2 mm difference in the step machined into the flywheel, so a corresponding difference must be in the pressure plate. An EA82 friction plate won't fit an EA81 4 sp 4WD, so I am stumped

Must've why it was sold

Clutch fork black or blue?

Look ok? Not cracked or holed?

Might crack after this

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Probably not the Pedal Box Issue but sounds like you should check it off the list anyways.

Get down there and depress the clutch pedal as you look closely at the clutch side of the pedal box. On the first Gen cars this is super common. The pivot of the clutch pedal tends to bind over time and cause the sheet metal of the pedal box to flex and crack. Look close and then check it off the list if I’m wrong.

 

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2 minutes ago, moosens said:

Probably not the Pedal Box Issue but sounds like you should check it off the list anyways.

Get down there and depress the clutch pedal as you look closely at the clutch side of the pedal box. On the first Gen cars this is super common. The pivot of the clutch pedal tends to bind over time and cause the sheet metal of the pedal box to flex and crack. Look close and then check it off the list if I’m wrong.

 

YES it does bend but I thought that was a reaction to pressure. Not the reason for pressure!

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What brand of clutch cable did you get? 

It sounds like it’s stretched beyond being useful and it could possibly be chewing itself out from the inside. 

It would be worth pulling the cable out and check how hard it is to pull/push through the outer casing. You should be able to do this by hand. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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6 hours ago, el_freddo said:

What brand of clutch cable did you get? 

It sounds like it’s stretched beyond being useful and it could possibly be chewing itself out from the inside. 

It would be worth pulling the cable out and check how hard it is to pull/push through the outer casing. You should be able to do this by hand. 

Cheers 

Bennie

Cable works great. Very smooth. The pedal box is very bendy so I wonder if that's it.

EDIT:

Got new cable from dealership. The "new" one that I put on already has bent washers.. it was from oreillys. And taking the PB to my buddy's shop to have reinforced. We shall see if this fixes the issue.

Edited by fuji4x4
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Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable. The one thing I learned from this is BUY QUALITY PARTS. Man the difference between the oriellys cable and the genuine Subaru cable is insane.

Can you guess who is who? 

IMG_20190926_181826615.jpg

Edited by fuji4x4
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4 hours ago, fuji4x4 said:

Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable.

 

Do you mean PP: pressure plate, or PB: Pedal Box?   

What makes you think it was both and not one of them?  Seems like one of them would probably be the main cause of the majority of the issue. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

When you suggest it is the PP...is that because you think the PP is worn beyond recommended limits. (excuse my ignorance)?

I was looking at this thread, because my clutch cable is broken. I need to replace it, and was looking here for information. It is a tricky thing for an ignorant Backyard mechanic to fix. Should I take / undo the whole pedal to replace the cable? or is there another more practical way.? i can barely see under the dash let alone get my hands in there. I am thinking best to remove my seat so I can get a better view and access to the pedal system. Any tidbits of help would be appreciated.

Here in Australia a new part is hard to get but I would like a new cable if possible. When I phoned an auto parts chain they said they could only get one custom made for $380. A wrecker I could get a used one for $70. ...(but how worn) A nearby Subaru dealership sent me a parts list for the cable. Said the cable did not come with all the parts, and I had to pin - point which part is broken. Well it is the cable...(broken at the pedal / firewall area.that should be simple enough to purchase.....but not so simple to purchase. subar dealer contacted Subaru , who said they don't have OR MAKE that part anymore

anyway, any and all comments welcomed

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Remove kick panel for better access. From memory the last time I did a cable swap I didn’t remove the clutch pedal (I could be wrong though - I removed the pedal for the L cable recently), the driver’s seat certainly did not move out of the vehicle. 

Use a torch or some sort of light to brighten up that dark space - it’ll make work so much easier! 

Cheers 

Bennie

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In Australia the steering shaft is right between and over the clutch and brake pedal.  Tricky tricky.  but i like the idea that a plate could be on the inside of the engine compartment and have it removeable. They should do that for all cars....or at least make is so it can be loose and hands can get in from the other side.  Must write Subaru

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