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Front, replacing axle shafts, etc. Should I replace wheel bearings?


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I need to replace the front axle shafts.  The seriously "clunk clunk"

I plan to replace a lot of other stuff while I am at it, such as tie rod ends, ball joint.

I have new wheel bearings and seals.  The ones on the car seem to be holding up just fine.  Replace them, or not?

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Are the bearings OEM?  How many miles?  I've driven many past 200K miles without failure.

Are the seals clean and flexible?  If they are original, they are probably worn out.

I don't replace the bearings, unless there is some good reason, like contamination, and cleaning them out reveals clicky sounds.  And that has been extremely rare, considering I have been running 2 of these cars since 1988.

Axles - used OEM, clean and regrease reboot.  Aftermarket are junk.

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If it's just a little bit, I'd try it.  I have one I'm running that had just started  clicking because the boot was torn, so I took it apart, cleaned it good, and reassembled.   So far so good.  It might make a soft click on tight manuvers once ona while, but nothing like when dry with open boot.  If the bearing surfaces are nice and shiny,  ok.  All torn up, I'd scrap.

I used the block of 2x6 with a hole in it, axle clamped in a vise to get the CVJ to pop off.  Hit the block with a 1 to 2 lb hammer, 1 moderate hit should pop it off.  Put something softish to catch it when it drops.

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Thanks for the advice. 

I brought the axle shaft/ bearing housing to a place that has a press, and they acted like it is a big risk to pop the axle shaft off.  The tech said the axle shaft might be destroyed.  

I am looking at another option...

Same old CVJ and bearings, new outer boot, but new DOJs and boots.  

The mechanics here have me spooked about removing the axle shaft.  Where would I buy another bearing housing?  

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How I get the axle out of the hub-  Remove the thin sheet metal brake shield.  2) 12mm head bolts.

A BIG 2 arm gear puller can just get a hold on the housing in one position, and push on the end of the axle.  That usually does it.  Some are looser, and hammering on a block of 2x4 wood against the axle end will push it out.  Do not use a hammer directly on the axle.

Another thing, based on comments you made -
the CVJ clicking can be on acceleration or heavy engine braking, and is usually affected by sharp turns.  It's a crunchy clicky sound.  Also, it goes along with a torn boot that has been open long enough to fling the grease out, and get crud in.

A clunking - much heavier sound than clicking CJVs - that only occurs during engine braking /letting off the gas and the engine actually starts to slow the car down, that is different.  I had one automatic transmission where the front differential ran dry of gear oil.  The pinion bearing eventually failed, and the pinion would move forward and contact the differential carrier housing while engine braking.  Ran fine under load or acceleration.  If it is this, it should clunk twice per wheel revolution.  Won't be affected by steering input.  Will get worse until it's scary, making the car jumpy even.


I have not seen a failure of the DOJs [the ones right on the transmission] in all of the time I've run Subarus, which goes back to the 1980s.  The only thing I ever had to service on those was the boots, which would break and spew grease all over that side of the engine compartment.

 

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