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scalman

outback 2005 , 3.0 VDC 180kw project

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trying to figure out still how to align that rear wheel as those 3 links there making so much changes in angles and pulls as they move, now i lifted it another 2cm to 7cm and rear wheels went to positive camber , but both sides are not same, somehow passenger side in rear its way more positive camber then driver side. what could it be , old bushings somewhere, maybe main arm bushing. i just changed bottom adjustment links bushings there and all other bushings are old so not sure in what state they are there, but could they make so much difference in wheel camber . ??

so now because top link stays same as we cannot just change it as it is bump stop as well, and because with lift now rear wheels started to go even more on positive camber, and then cv axle doesnt let it drop all the way down because it reaces its limits, its too long. so just make longer lower links doesnt work there and makes that camber even worse so i need make them shorter to make camber back good again, or somehow make top link longer or adjusted. but i cannot make lower links shorter because then cv axle wont have any room at all. 

in perfect world i would need all 3 links longer and adjustable there , so i could push that arm outside , and like a lot outside , maybe some 2-3 cm outside more then it is now, just then that cv axle would work again normaly. 

i think top link would need to be that much longer to make all back to normal there

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but thats not possible without too much modification and i want to solve all just by custom or adjustable links.

found that mazda 6 have lower link adjustable similar to my lower link there

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so front reached its limits on stock parts with 7cm lift and rear is just some mess that moves up and down in weird ways changes angles , twists bushings , why they couldnt make it more like forester ? simple straigh links , 2 links same lenght and its fine , but now they needed to make all those angles here so when rear wheel drops down it turns too to back it forced to turn and twist there. its so easy to lift forester in rear compare to this haha.

but ok i duno if anyone did 7cm lift just on struts on those models, its fun to me to see how all works and what works and what doesnt there.

Edited by scalman

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so mazdas adjustable link is too short for subaru. and trick that was working on 2001 outback for rear to put shorter cv axles and with that to have more travel down is not working on this model too, all real suspension stayed the same from previous models yes, but cv that goes into wheels changed they now have ring for ABS sensor and not teath like it was on older ones. and that new cv now has different kind of connection that wont fit from older model too. so now way to put shorter axle from older models. for that i needed to buy actual axles to try and see that they wont work. 

so what could be done then ? well if all links in rear all 3 i mean would be longer like 1-3cm longer then cv axle would have more space to move there and wheel could drop more , but that top link im nto sure what you can do to adjust that, just to adjust  holes themselfs that it goes into. 

you cannot do much with that link there sadly

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only if make bump stop rubber on some other place not on link itself . and those adjustable bushings that are made to adjust some its not enough there, not for my situation at least. but im still will keep trying to find some solution that its easy and its not modifying a lot subframe as later i will need to put back all oem parts and pass MOT 

so why go to so much trouble , well i like it , to solve problems or at least try to solve something and find solutions, which i did at least for wheel alignment after 7cm lift on spacers. not camber just alignment for now. front camber is almost ok too, and rear camber cant be changed so much i think . 

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one thing that is bad there , they should not be straight spacers anymore, because that strut now going more back and its not meeting bottom mounting place , i need to push that strut to cars front just to atach it now at bottom, so if spacer would be on angle that would help that strut i think. but for now it is what it is. 

 

so whats for rear alignment, well to put rear wheel on same line as front wheels that adjustable link must have even more adjustment there, so i made it and now its working fine. n41oxCyl.jpg

 

so thats how much in rear strut still need to be compressed because wheel doesnt drop anymore with all those links connected there, and cv axle hits its limits too

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so everytime i need to like do something in rear on links , first i need to dissconect that rear strut, and then put it back i need to compress it that much just to reach that hole. its pain. i did solved this problem on 2001 by puting shorter cv axle in rear , but not here anymore it doesnt fit. 

 

so what i have now is this. 7cm lift on spacers only. 12' under rear diff , front is less , but reaches 30cm still, rear is like 33cm. its good height now for my own height, comfy to do something in trunk , comfy to get in car and out. good height. 

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and wheels still flexing there, im surprised that rear wheel with all that 7cm lift on spacer , that wheel still going inside there, i was thinking it wouldnt anymore .

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and nice surprise that front sway bar still can be connected there and wheel still flexing there with it. it wouldnt work same on 2001 , thats why i removed sway bar on that one, but on this one somehow its fine, and that front suspension reaches its limits as cv axles almost reaches that control arm. so nowhere more to go there

so thats it , limit in front for how much you could push on strut there. and i dont even need more. 

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Edited by scalman

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and VDC still works great with 7cm lift, cv axles doesnt bind or anything there on maxed flex

 

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wonder who can make that sound clicking like metal for sure, but from what ?

 

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muffler delete. about 20 min job just cutting it just before it goes to split into two. so will be easy job later to connect it back when needed.

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and now it sound much better, and not too loud at all.

 

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so as i neded up having just now main error cyl 2 missfire comes up now everytime. 

changed plugs to new NGK iridium ones 

changed that cyl coil couple times allready to used on but good from running car. nothing changing

intake leaks? vacum bad. catalyst clogged , fuel not coming enough ? not sure , but some raw data from troque app maybe would help find some bad stuff.. 

well strange how that STFT1 values jumping so much from negative to zero and such.. 

thats just driving around with error on board.

 

 

then i tried to remove that resonator maybe its clogged and reseted error codes. while driving very loud without resonator errors didint came up. but that was for short time only so it doesnt saying much i guess. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMeyZy_QFZ4&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ&index=1

 

and thats how it shows vacum while driving

 

Edited by scalman

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my exhaust mod for loud mode or silent mode when i want , first i did rear muffler delete mode but then i thought its not nice for passengers , so i made then option

 

 

still going on 7cm spacers , still holding all stuff works just rear cv axles suffer as they reaching they drop limit with lenght limit , thats not problem for older forester to lift but with those outbacks in rear is just not good , i would need shorter axles now with this lift without subframe lift but as car sists on wheels on its weight its fine but when rear wheels going into air those axles reaching its limit to compress and they stoping rear drop , if i would have shorter rear axles it could drop some more , but on this model i cant put those shorter axles from older subaru models as i did on 2001 outback, its not fits anymore because different teaths. it was no problem on 2001 outback but now it is. so rear cant drop as much as it could there, but its still ok as VDC works and TC works 

Edited by scalman

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what could make this sound ? its loudest when i turn engine off. not there when i drive, all gears works as before fine, gearbox oil good level and good color. so whats that?

 

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I gave some very wild ideas on the other forum but here, I wonder if the 'dogbone'/pitch stop bushings could do that?

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On 9/1/2020 at 9:12 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said:

I gave some very wild ideas on the other forum but here, I wonder if the 'dogbone'/pitch stop bushings could do that?

that sounds changes when i switch between gears like from P to R to N and to D it makes different sound as i switch between them, and then when that ABS light comes up and solenoid D error i can feel kick in gearbox to wheels and with that error on car drives very slow and just bad. so that must be same problem then i guess sound and errors 

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On 9/4/2020 at 8:06 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said:

is it better after a battery disconnect 'reset' ?

no its not better really car  feels much better and drives better even with getting all those missfire erorrors, its getting worse after i deleting errors rly ... i kinda drives then in limp mode ... not good launch no good nothing ... and lots more errros now for me like gear box solenoid D erros thats it direct clutch solenoid .. .so guess gearbox can make all car just being slug too. changed oil in gearbox still that solenoid error but now not so fast as before... 

 

trying some MT used tires and 15 rims size ... i know its not fit on those models but with 25,, wheel spacers its allmost good fit .. just need little grind there . its 235/75R15

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it still too close to brake calippers i guess but for today thats all..  will try to grind it next day and see how it will go ... 

its shame my gearbox wont let me try those wheels properly it goes into that limp mode now again after 2 days. i mean i drain some oil from gearbox then it lwt me drive for like 2 days and then it goes again into that limp mode where i cannot drive normal. still i use car as i need it ... but feels just bad to do it torture it . but then when it lets me drive normal it launches like champ there ... for 1-2 days though not more . that weird , why oil drain from gearbox then fixes that direct clutch solenoid error for couple days . then it goes again to error. 

Edited by scalman

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so now its almost off road ready car with proper MT tires, at least i can fit 15 rims there so more choice for tires on those rims. just my gearbox save some solenoid problems still but i will try fix that change solenoid soon and then test maybe more 

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was even thinking can i put some manual dual range with this engine, from same year manual models that have dual range , but i dont think my ECU would work with that so then more modifications and maybe even reflashing ECU must be done that this engine would work with manual loose all VDC stuff then .. hope my 5EAT can be fixed still there

hi lift jack works fine as before ... but now i put back those black winter tires because those MT are too loud to drive daily 

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did some more grinding on brake calipers but it was allmost no needed rly

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i still think this gearbox can be really good if it will work ok , with proper MT tires aired down it could drive pretty good. and most foresters here dont do more then 5cm lift so i have pretty good clearance too there. still driving with my 7cm spacers lift without any other spacers, just made longer rear bottom link to make wheels about right camber . all other just standard. 

Edited by scalman

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DIY tow hitch spare tire carier. just holes and bolts missing from pics.its folding back, when its folded back have idea to make then table on top of that so you can sit inside trunk and have table there or sit on sides in chairs. but that will add later. 

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tire carier done. looks strong , feels strong as well, folds down in 2 positions , fully or just enough to open trunk like in places where is not much space maybe, well just option that could be done easy so why not. 

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small tires 225/50R17 , enjoying forest in this years amazing winter

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why i never found this info before from anyone ? SH9 forester front struts are about 2cm longer or more even and they fit bolt on for 3.0/2.0D BP outback models, so you get free lift , more travel for same price. rear ones could be adapted too , they just need bottom bushing changed i think. but for now i put SH9 forester struts in front with 5cm spacers, in all i got 7cm lift or some more there

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Since when subaru's got this bad? Did cvt killed it? 

 

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