dirtyloyalemobbin Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Verify timing belts are intact. Check the CTS. It can fail in ways that don't throw a code, but still make the engine run all kinds of bad. The coolant temperature sensor is the 2 wire bolt in near the thermostat, on the intake manifold. The single wire one is for the dash gauge. There should be a ground wire from the transmission to the body, the engine to the body. (near the alternator - one end is ona tab on the coolant pipe from the water pump) They are there to ensure complete circuits for many of the sensors and solenoids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm2 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 +1 for the timing belts. Even if they look intact, there may be stripped teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 check for disty rotor attached....no lost screw. and then timing belts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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