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Can someone tell me where I can get a ignition transistor or is it possible to bye pass it. On a 90 Loyale


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I have a new coil new disrupters, router.   I haven’t checked then theming belt buts it’s fairly new so I don’t think it’s that but.  I will make sure the coil bracket is against the car 

I still also need transistor because I broke it 

 

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22 hours ago, Cormfra said:

I have a no start I thinks it’s from my Ignition coil transistor but I’m not sure can someone tell me where I can buy one

What exactly are you referring to as the ignition coil transistor? Within the distributor? If it's what I think you are referring to, check this out.

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Edited by loyalematt
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No, you cannot bypass it. The transistor in the control unit will not handle the current of the coil.

How many wires on it and is it grounded to the coil bracket?

To act as a transistor power switch for the coil it would have a signal input, a ground and an output to the coil. What it does is, take the high current load of the coil away from the SPFI Control Unit, or ECU or ECM in later models. It is the same process as produced by using a relay. A small current can control a large current. Transistors can switch on and off really fast like millions of times per second.

I was looking at wiring diagrams and you may be able to wire in a later model Igniter in place of the Power Transistor. The Igniter is basically the same thing, only it is built to run two coils in a pack instead of one coil. I looked at the 95 and 97 Legacy because we have them.

Remove one of the two wires on the coil terminals. With the key on, there should be battery voltage on one of the two wires. The one that does not show voltage goes to the Power Transistor. Remember which one that is.

To test the coil hook up a spark plug wire to the coil and a spark plug. Ground the spark plug body somewhere on the engine. Turn the key on and take a wire grounded on one end and tap the other end on the coil terminal that goes to the Transistor. Do not hold it on the terminal, just tap it. There should be a spark when you remove the wire from the terminal. When the wire touches the terminal the coil generates a magnetic field. When the wire is removed that magnetic field collapses and produces a spark.

The input wire to the Power Transistor should show a low voltage pulse on a volt meter when cranking the engine.

What I don't know is the impedance (electrical resistance at certain frequencies) of the old coil compared to the newer coils. There will be a capacitor (or condenser) either external or built into the Power Transistor. That capacitor is used to complete the coil circuit to ground when the transistor switches off and the magnetic field collapses and produces current in the high voltage winding of the ignition coil.

If you decide to try wiring in the Igniter, the following is how to wire it. Go to a yard and get the Igniter and plug. Cut the wire harness long, so you have wires to work with. You can trim off the wires later. It is mounted at the center of the firewall on the bracket for the support that goes to the top of the bellhousing.

Remove the Power Transistor.

On the Igniter connector there are 6 terminals but only 5 Pins are used. Pin 3 has a black wire, so you can easily decode the other pins.

Wire colors. First letter is wire color. Second letter is the stripe color.

Black, Green, Lavender, Red, Yellow, Violet.

Pin # and Wire color.

Pins 1 YL & 2 YV - connect the wires together and they go to the signal Input wire that originally went to the Power Transistor.

Pins 5 L & 6 RG - connect the wires together and they go to the coil terminal.

Pin 3 B - goes to a GOOD ground.

I wish I had something to try this on, but I don't. Connecting the wires together hooks the two transistors in parallel so the coil current is divided between them. What I do not know is what the combined input load will put on the computer signal. It depends on the resistor circuit for the transistors built into the Igniter. We may have to break it down to just one circuit.

Let us know if you try it and how it works out.

Edited by Rampage
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1990 Subaru Loyale
Coil/Igniter

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1994
Ignition Coil
Subaru Loyale
  A K05748 $35 Gerry's Foreign Auto Parts USA-WA(Kittitas) Request_Quote 1-800-848-5578 Request_Insurance_Quote
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1992
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2834_15209_01_thumb.jpg1.8L,CK-OK,4/18,ON FENDER A 052E $35 Whiteys Wrecking USA-WA(Spokane) Request_Quote 1-800-735-2376 Request_Insurance_Quote
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1991
Ignition Coil
Subaru Loyale
1.8,5SPD   N10258 $25 All West Coast Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Shelton) Request_Quote 1-800-720-4599 Request_Insurance_Quote
1991
Ignition Coil
Subaru Loyale
1.8,5SP   N8843 $25 All West Coast Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Shelton) Request_Quote 1-800-720-4599 Request_Insurance_Quote
1988
Ignition Coil
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  A 6333 $25 97 Auto Wrecking Shull's Towing USA-WA(Brewster) E-mail 1-800-822-5761
1992
Ignition Coil
Subaru Loyale
ON SHELF GOOD UNIT A 230903 $25 Black Diamond Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Black-Diamond) Request_Quote 1-877-809-8809 Request_Insurance_Quote
1993
Ignition Coil
Subaru Loyale
    150348 $Call Nisqually Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Lacey) Request_Quote 360-456-6222 Request_Insurance_Quote
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When you turn the ignition switch key to ON, one of the two eyelets will show 12 volts and that one goes to the coil positive terminal.

The other eyelet goes to the coil negative terminal. That wire actually goes to the transistor.

The transistor should be grounded through the coil bracket.

The third connection for the transistor is the wire that comes from the SPFI module that carries the pulses to make the transistor switch on and off to produce spark from the coil.

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