idosubaru Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 On 3/3/2020 at 11:46 AM, tjet said: How much more cooling capacity does it need? This is a swap project, and I can install a large radiator and an oil cooler if needed. What sealant do you need to use? Anaerobic, it won’t dry in the oil supply. applied carfully anything else works fine. The Right Stuff is excellent for some applications, people. It’s very good at sealing and drying consistently and isn’t very picky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjet Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thanks. I think I have some loctite 518 in the garage somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 On 4/3/2020 at 3:41 PM, tjet said: Stock below. Something is quite wrong with this graph (I understand it is a simulation) because magmatically the horsepower and torque curves MUST cross at 5252 rpm. This chart cannot be compared to any other run-of-the-mill dyno graph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjet Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 (edited) Yeah, you are correct. That Desktop dyno simulation is way off and is not a good way to determine HP of an engine. I was using it to see what mods would bring up the HP level from 150 to around 200. I saw that the HP & TQ didnt cross over where they should. Good catc Edited April 7, 2020 by tjet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjet Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 (edited) On 4/4/2020 at 9:16 AM, tjet said: I found a list of compatible injectors (I think - don't quote me until I confirm). They all have the same prefix # of 195500-xxxx, which is a Denso O-Ring top-feed. The part # is on the top side of the injector on the plastic part. They are in order of flow: Stock ER27: 195500-1330, 188cc @ 3 BAR, yellow top, 13.5 Ω (170 HP max). [=] -1900, 208cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω [=] -2190, 210cc @ 3 BAR, red top, 13.6Ω (=) -1480, 212cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω [=] -1970, 212cc @ 3 BAR, blue top, 13.8Ω (=) -1980, 214cc @ 3 BAR, green top, 13.6Ω (=) -1960, 226cc @ 3 BAR, pink top, 13.6Ω (200+HP) (=) I found a used set of the -1980 cheap out of a 1989-98 Madza MPV with a 3.0 L six cyl, 200 HP . I'm going to send these to the injector rebuilder and confirm if they are a direct swap and get them rebuilt and flowed. Per the info above, they flow slightly less than the 220 needed (214cc), but I'd rather error on the cautious side. The injector flow #'s jumped up after the -1960 @ 226 cc to up in the 240cc+ range. The Mazda injectors were also way cheaper than all of the other injectors. I need to make a correction to the above p/n's. Even though they are all Denso 0-ring top feed, the connector plug on the original fuel injector is square, and some of the ones I listed have the newer style oval connector. Duh. I'm going to put an [=] for the "EV1" square plugs, and a (=) for the "Denso" oval plugs. Of course I didnt notice that important detail until after I bought a set of used injectors - dam it Here is where I found the injector data https://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php Important note, the injectors listed above are known as Hi-Z or high impedance fuel injectors (around 13-14 Ohm). Do not install low impedance 1-4 Ohm old style injectors with a high impedance ECU. The factory manual will tell you what style injectors you have. Most newer cars run high impedance. What's better? I cant answer that. Edited April 6, 2020 by tjet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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