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(UPDATED pics and vid) Help! Newbie with 1994 EJ22 in van. Won't start. Skipped a tooth??


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Subaru parts only.  Bare minimum relate that tensioner because it’s failed and the lower toothed pulley, that’s the most prone failure item by a long shot and they’re only $35 each.  I’d just replace it all - al pulleys, tensioner and belt and water pump with OEM. 

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22 hours ago, lmdew said:

I'd stay with the old style.  I have never seen one fail like that.  I pull spares out of the yard when I see them exposed by other pulling parts already.

As others have said compress slowly!

I reckon that particular tensioner is not a genuine item. I’d be very surprised if it is. 

If genuine, you should see the Fuji Heavy Industries logo cast into the side of it. It’s a boomerang looking logo (did I get that right @Steptoe :P

I’ve compressed them using a G clamp as previously mentioned, always on their side. An Allen key or a nail/pop rivet (used pin or new unit) works a treat to hold the tension!

Cheers 

Bennie

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The tensioner def. does not have anything stamped on it. China for sure! I just ordered a new one today at the Subaru dealer. They said it will be a couple days and its $150!! It was a pain since he wanted a VIN. Without a VIN, he had three part numbers all for pre '94 2.2's. He got a service manager to make a solid guess so Im hoping for the best. I may get that lower toothed pulley too but I'm out of money plus all of this stuff has 10K miles on it since the full reman so I think the rest is ok. It's all NSK Japan. The belt seems perfect so I'm leaving it in.

I noticed an issue with keeping things lined up today while cleaning things up. I'm confused about how to keep the timing perfect when putting the belt in. I understand that you count the teeth but exactly what tooth to start and end on is unclear when looking it in real life. I did look at the diagram but when actually doing it, I get .5 or 1 tooth either way depending on how the belt lands and then, for example, the left cam moves super easy so that will screw me up. Also, after rotating with the belt on, the right cam wheel ended up one tooth off from where it was before. It's like the tension on the belt changes how the cams line up slightly from where I had them to begin with.

Edited by SubVAN
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any of the 90 to 94 tensioners will be fine. that part did not actually change during those years. in fact, it did not change until 96 i think..possibly later. the 95 i had a few years ago had the exact same style.

it should come pre-compressed and held with a pin. do not pull that pin until belt is installed properly and the tensioner is bolted in place - pulling the pin is the last thing you do.

one of the counts is actually a half tooth.. it is 44 and 40.5 (go back to first page and find Rampage's post with the counts shown)

on rotation, yes it will change.. all that matters is that things are properly lined up when initially setting it.

 

Edited by heartless
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Yeah but have you tried telling a parts counter guy that? :unsure: They only want to come back at you and tell you that they have different parts listed and then demand a VIN. I felt lucky to even get him to agree to order anything. The service guy saved my day.

Let me get this straight... so even if I set the marks like shown, get the belt on and tensioner, etc., start it with everything lined up perfectly, THEN if I check it again after it runs, the cams can be off from the crank marks this time??

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I have not ever counted teeth on the belt. Waste of time! 

Line up the lines on each of the wheels with the corresponding marks on the cam covers and crank angle sensor mount. Install belt (May have to rotate one cam slightly to allow for slack in the belt AND keep the correct alignment). 

Once everything is lined up and belt installed, pull the magic pin. Rotate crank twice, lining up the crank mark. Both cam wheel lines should be within a mm or two of the cam cover marks if they’re not bang on. 

If they’re more than this, do it again! If it’s consistently off (with adjustments in your figment  method) I’d recommend changing the belt for a genuine new unit. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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5 hours ago, el_freddo said:

I have not ever counted teeth on the belt. Waste of time! 

Line up the lines on each of the wheels with the corresponding marks on the cam covers and crank angle sensor mount. Install belt (May have to rotate one cam slightly to allow for slack in the belt AND keep the correct alignment). 

Once everything is lined up and belt installed, pull the magic pin. Rotate crank twice, lining up the crank mark. Both cam wheel lines should be within a mm or two of the cam cover marks if they’re not bang on. 

If they’re more than this, do it again! If it’s consistently off (with adjustments in your figment  method) I’d recommend changing the belt for a genuine new unit. 

Cheers 

Bennie

to be clear, he is talking about the cam markings - not the belt markings - the belt markings take a LOT more rotations to line up again.

belt markings are there for convenience during installation only - so you don't have to count teeth.

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I realize why the marks are confusing me after trying to get it perfect again today. It has to do with tension on the belt. If it's loose on the bottom, for example, when everything rotates on startup the unequal tension between the top and bottom sort of equalizes things and the cams/crank positions end up where they will. I don't feel like its possible to get it 100% perfectly set unless its by luck.

Got the new tensioner from Subaru directly today. It is definitely different than what came out of there. $160 with tax but I feel better about it now, compared to ordering another off-brand from the net. It's marked with the Aisin brand by the way which I've seen for sale, even at Amazon, but I don't trust anybody but the dealer for this kind of thing.

 

IMG_2959.jpg

IMG_2958.jpg

Edited by SubVAN
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17 hours ago, heartless said:

to be clear, he is talking about the cam markings - not the belt markings - the belt markings take a LOT more rotations to line up again.

Yes, the cam markings that are lines. I wanted to be specific about this as the arrow on the cam wheel is used to indicate which cylinder is at top dead centre. 

Some people use this arrow to line up their timing and wonder why the engine won’t run - then wonder why the arrow is there! 

Cheers 

Bennie

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To update, It's running great! I did the belt/tooth marking technique just to make extra sure. Its such a huge pain to get my covers off so I went far to make sure it was perfect. It started up like new! Thanks for the advice. I'll be back for more but hopefully not soon. :D

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