Rafavidmess Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Hello, I just bought a 1991 Brat, this was a daily driver, quite neglected, but complete and only with little rust. luckily I also found an 83 wagon which I got almost for free, full of animals and rust, but after some cleaning it showed to be in a decent shape... besides the rust. At a first look, Inwould like to make the following swaps, all from the wagon to the brat: Install the 5 gear gearbox Install power steering install Ac install some minor gadgets like power windows and power mirrors The first two issues look (from my ignorance) just bolt-ons, any advice about the problems I may found would be truly thanked. also a wish list of upgrades: FI Better brakes about 10-20 more horsepower...but keeping reliability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 - 5 speed box is either front wheel drive only or a conversion from an L series that retains 4wd. - power steering is a direct swap over - AC a direct swap over - power windows need some mods for the window to go all the way down. I’ve done it before. - power windows - I didn’t know these were an option!! That or it doesn’t have any. Power steering: a good time to put new boots, new rack ends and tie rod ends on the rack while it’s out. The gearbox swap should be straight forward. Fuel injection, you’ll need a later model L series SPFI unless you can dig up the rare EA81 turbo and fit that (L series turbo management will run it no worries). Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Zhiemer Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 (edited) I'm pretty sure the sub-frame for the power steering is different isn't it? Thought I had read somewhere that there was a slight difference between the two, something to do with where one of the power steering hoses need to run? I do believe you can modify the manual steer sub-frame to work with power steering though. Out of precaution I just swapped over the complete sub-frame. Still an easy thing to do but without an engine crane I think it would be an engine out conversion. Someone will correct me. You will also need to make sure you get the thermostate housing as well, its a different unit. I followed Wikiel-freddo's guide to doing the power window swap, pretty straight forward. Can be a pretty big job to accomplish though, depending on how far down that rabbit hole you want to go. Over here is Aus, most of the wagons that came with the electric windows, also cam with a 6 gauge instrument cluster or a crap digital unit. Its a completely different dash and so is the centre console, me being anal and like everything looking factory and in its place, it was almost a complete interior removal and reinstall by the time I swapped out the dash, centre console and removed the seats to run the wiring to the center console for the master control switches for the windows. Its a big mission but well worth it to keep that factory finish look about it. I will add, this is also a good time to add remote central looking into the old girl as well, everything is already removed and out of your way. While you are down this rabbit hole, you may as well do the air conditioning as well because its a complete dash out job. Thankfully mine already had the air conditioning but still easily achievable. Hardest part of the whole freaking job is getting the three screws out on top of the dash. 20 - 30 more HP... Hhmmmm... Only way to see those sort of improvements these days is with a full engine rebuild, weber carbie, exhaust and cams. As much as I HATE saying this because I love my little EA81, going the EJ conversion is really the way to go to see any sort of real world benefit, even a good running EJ18/20 is going to give you far more bang for your buck. Parts availablity for one, better fuel economy, more HP and more torque and all the benefits that come with running a reasonably modern engine and EFI set up. Once again, not cheap but can easily be accomplished. And yes, I finally gave in and done the bloody EJ conversion but one of my biggest reasons was to preserve the good running EA81's that I have and slowly gather up what parts I can to rebuild them. I plan to turn mine completely back to stock at some stage in the future, they are becoming worth a lot of money for a nice clean, rust free example over here and keeping the numbers matching engine is even better. Not sure what your mechanical abilities are but if your new to this, it can sound a bit daunting. Best suggestion is to attack one area at a time, first pick for me was the dash and wiring, everything runs to and from there in some way or another anyway, once you have that done, start focusing on the next piece of the puzzle. Regards, Al Edited March 16, 2020 by Al Zhiemer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Agree with what Al says. If you have the six gauge dash it’s worth the swap. Digit dash not so much but some ppl are into them! The power steering - the engine crossmember will fit the power steering rack no worries, but four spot welds on the hacking plate need to be removed. Replace with nuts and bolts - same as a factory PS setup. Definitely dash out for AC! Good time to swap in the longer dash and cluster of your choosing (digital or six gauge analogue - need the wiring specific to the instrument cluster!), or keep the factory dash with the AC wiring behind it. If you go with the touring wagon console and power windows, it basically an interior swap. But if you change the bracket that mounts the console to the dashboard, you can easily retain the factory brumby console without electric windows but with the long dash arrangement. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 16, 2020 Author Share Posted March 16, 2020 (edited) Thank You Al and Bennie! Mine has the Little Analog Dashboard (3 Gauges), and I plan to keep it for now (The Wag has a 7 Gauge board, but the dash is completely torn apart). I am starting with cleaning everything and getting everything to work well in a standard condition. Following your advices, I think I will start with the Power steering. I consider Myself a capable, though not professional, mechanic and I also run a Welding machines sales business...so welding is not an issue for me. Time is always mi biggest Issue, but Coronavirus may give me lots of free time. I´ll keep udates up. Sorry...with 7 gauges I meant 6 gauges Edited March 16, 2020 by Rafavidmess Mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Dashboards can be re-skinned, usually expensive but comes out like new! Well worth the effort for a much better looking instrument cluster. You’ll be right with this and the other swaps mate Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Zhiemer Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Someone will correct me here again... Is it neccassary to change the steering column when you put the power steering unit in? I vaguely remembering something different about wrag joints and universal style joints? I didn't pay much attention when I did mine, just put the tilt steering column in because if figured why the F@@@ not, nothing else in here is original anymore LOL And I had to rig something up for the lift at the same time. On another note, when it comes time to do the dash, do not seperate the wiring loom from the dash when you remove it. It will make it a pain in the arse to re-install and look untidy as hell. Regards Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Original steering column can be retained with or without PS. The wiring advice - correct. Keep it with the dashboard, unplug everything else Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Zhiemer Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 As for the dash, youtube "Flocking"... Have watched a couple of videos on dashes being restored with this method, although it doesn't leave a vynil finish and more of a felt/suede finish, the results do look good and can be a DIY project. And for a few hundred dollar investment, it is a cheap way of restoring your dash. Regards Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Hi Guys, Some update... after driving my MV a while I realized that my starting point was going to be other: All the rear drive. Driveshafts, and U joints were severely worn out. The same parts on my donor looked in very good shape. Easy Job... I thought Removal from the donor car was easy, 2-3 hours of work without hurry made it. Then I spent some more time cleaning, checking greasing, oiling and changing rubbers....al good by then The problema started when I tried to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the torsion bar in place in My MV.. the were completely frozen. 2 came out, not without damaging the threads and 2 broke. long story short.... after one and a half week of wrestling a am almost Ready to install my “new” rear drive this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Zhiemer Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Yep... Welcome to the world of working on 30 year old cars that have been abused for the majority of those LOL Do yourself a favour and go and get a good anti sieze to put on the bolts befor you reinstall, makes your life so much easier in the future. I find also that if you have the time, trying giving them a good spray with some possums piss a couple of times over a few hours before you start trying to remove them. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Be wary of swapping the Torsten bar setups between the wagon and the MV. Apparently (I’ve only heard) the MV’s Torsten rating is higher than that of the wagon. This is the difference between load carrying and ride comfort. While you’ve got the diff and driveshafts out, now is a good time to tackle the inner CV cups that are more than likely welded to the diff output shafts due to rust. With full access you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting these apart. Lube up before reinstalling! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 My MV “new” legs, just before installation. just finished mounting this night. tomorrow... brakes bleeding, exhaust and go driving!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Thank you all for the advices. It´s a Pitty, but this weekend I won´t be able to touch My MV due to "family restrictions". Al, for your peace of mind I used anti seize compound on almost everything :). I guess this won´t be last time I have to disassemble. I am doing everything well, making notes of what is still to do and being shure every bolt is OK fir next time. Let you know as it goes on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 Just Keeping you up to date, Rear now works perfect, then I got to the front end... Another couples of day of fighting frozen bolts and destroyed CV Joints and got all fit now. Now the Mv doesn´t shake like a mixer when I´m going over 100 Kp/h (About 60 mph). The thing is you start to get pickier as the car dirves better.... but I think now It´s a safe car to drive. So Next steps will be: - Transfer the Hidraulic steering from the Wagon to the brat. - Try...to tranfer the front disk pbrakes from the wagon to the Mv. Has anyone done this before? Note: I found an upgrade from 83 (Wagon) to 1991 (Mv), in the Mv the front discs are ventilated, in the wagon they aren´t. Greetings!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 On 3/27/2020 at 10:53 AM, el_freddo said: Be wary of swapping the Torsten bar setups between the wagon and the MV. Apparently (I’ve only heard) the MV’s Torsten rating is higher than that of the wagon. This is the difference between load carrying and ride comfort. While you’ve got the diff and driveshafts out, now is a good time to tackle the inner CV cups that are more than likely welded to the diff output shafts due to rust. With full access you shouldn’t have too much trouble getting these apart. Lube up before reinstalling! Cheers Bennie Torsten has corrupted your keyboard ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 40 minutes ago, Steptoe said: Torsten has corrupted your keyboard ! Not keyboard, auto correct @Rafavidmess - why are you swapping discs from the wagon to the brat? The vented discs are WAY BETTER!! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) Hi Bennie, Sorry, I explained it wrong . I Would like to replace the REAR (drum) brakes of my MV with the front ( disc, not ventilated) brakes from the wagon. Do you think this makes sense? Edited April 8, 2020 by Rafavidmess Misspelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Makes sense @Rafavidmess - you will find that it won’t work though. I’m very happy to be proven wrong though. This method didn’t work on my L series - I had to source the 4wd rear disc setup from a turbo L series to get rear discs. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 15, 2020 Author Share Posted April 15, 2020 Hi, Just got out and cleaned the Hidraulic steering from my GL to be installed in the BRAT, Got new rack and Tie rod ends. I think I will use the GL subframe, they are VERY Similar, just changing some spots welds for bolts and some holes, but the GL will be gone anyway, so I will go for the complete change. Does enyone has (Or know where to get) a service manual or guide for the steering rack? I would like to see if there is anything Else I should check/renew besides the ends. Regards! Rafa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 This weekend I did some 200 kms of highway, just to make sure my current job is ok....before We are forced to be at home again. Results seem fine, but definitely I would like to go for some more power. Also did some minor lighting work and rust cleaning. I the meantime I was thinking in the EJ swap @Al Zhiemer mentioned. I kind of like the 4 speed trany. Do you think I can keep it? Also can I keep the hydraulic steering that I am planning to install this week (from the 83 wagon donor)? Saludos! Rafa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Power steering, yes. 4 speed, yes - if you drive it nicely (trust me you probably wont!). The L series 5 speed will make it feel like less of a highway tractor. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 16 hours ago, el_freddo said: Power steering, yes. 4 speed, yes - if you drive it nicely (trust me you probably wont!). The L series 5 speed will make it feel like less of a highway tractor. Cheers Bennie But then I will lose the dual range...or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 1 hour ago, Rafavidmess said: But then I will lose the dual range...or not? Not if you get a dual range gearbox Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Just Found a 1990 Legacy 4WD, Manual, for about USD 400 near my home at Yapo (A sort of Chilean Craigslist). Body looks like rubbish and has a clear frontal crash. The Engine comes (as claimed) from a 99 Legacy. It´s an import car from the US. Maybe I will hurry the Engine upgrade...if the tranny has dual range+ Engine and Tranny are in good shape, I will certainly go for it! Hope I can Check it out this afternoon Saludos! Rafael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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