Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I have replaced my distributor and set the tdc but I have no power to my ignition coil. There is power to the starter. And the distributor works. IDK why I have no power. Please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 I am in the process of checking everything. All the fuses are good. Not sure how to check a relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 What car? No relays involved. Check fusible links and ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 82 Subaru GL. I checked fusible links, they have power. And the coil to starter is good. How do you check the ignition switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 (edited) Why was the distributor replaced? Have you checked the positive side of the coil for voltage? "And the coil to starter is good." Makes no sense to me. The coil and starter are stand alone parts. Edited March 24, 2020 by john in KY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 3 hours ago, Debbie Norred said: 82 Subaru GL. I checked fusible links, they have power. And the coil to starter is good. How do you check the ignition switch? Make sure there is power going into the switch on the large white wire and power power coming out on the others,especially black./white. Check the connector for overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 You will have to remove the steering column cover to access the connector if you do not have tilt steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Yes there is tilt in the steering wheel. I will have someone look here in a minute and get back to you on the electronic parts. I am not good with electrical stuff.i did check the positive side of the coil and no power. Distributor was replaced because a shop told me that was what was wrong with it when I broke down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 With tilt,you need to remove the bottom panel that surrounds the fusebox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I should have said BLACK/YELLOW instead of black/white.(IGN terminal of switch) White should be OK since the starter works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Removed the bottom panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Not sure where the ignition switch is located Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 The ignition switch is the one turned by the key. The switch part is inside straight in from where the key hole is. I am not specifically familiar with the 82s. But the coil hot side (+) side should have 12V with the key on with anything older than 1994 Loyales anyway. The (-) side of the coil is switched by the points, Electronic ignition, or the ECU depending on what system they used. Do you know the engine type? It's a number on the bell housing, like EA71, EA81, EA82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 EA81. Got all of that apart from the car. I originally already paid someone to repair that when I got the car, cuz there was a screwdriver as the key, lol. It doesn't look like a car part at all. There are 5 wires but it's attached to the ignition switch by only 4. The guy that fixes it said he couldn't find one for this car cuz it's so old. I ordered a new one and the Chilton's book. I am crossing my fingers that this works. I am So mad that I already paid someone else to do it, to find out after the car has been sitting there for a yr. And was told I needed a new distributor and that it would cost me $1000 to fix. I bought a refurbished distributor from rock auto for only $125. I am starting to hate people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 The ignition switch I bought has no key. None of them do. Any ideas on what to do with it when I do get the part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 A good locksmith might be able to make a key. These old cars are a challenge to keep running - you have to diy, or have big wads of cash when you find someone specialized enough to want to touch them. Collect spare parts, make parts, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 You need a lock cylinder as well.Wrecker is the only source I know. This may help https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147668-brat-ignition-lock-cylinder-stuck/ Apparently,part #783121210 fits an 82 but is not 100% correct.This includes a lock cylinder and switch.Goggle the part #. Maybe you do not need a switch.No point replacing the wrong part.If there is 12 volts on 2 of the switch OUTPUTS(not counting the white input) in RUN position,the switch is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I thought maybe a locksmith. I will look to see if I can find a lock cylinder. IDK what the problem can be other than the switch. Makes sense to me. I will try to see if I can find out if it's getting power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie Norred Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 No reading on the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 18 hours ago, Debbie Norred said: While waiting on the ignition switch, I'd hot wire the coil (12v to the positive side) to verify the engine has no other problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 33 minutes ago, john in KY said: I'd hot wire the coil (12v to the positive side) to verify the engine has no other problem I would not do that. With no power coming out of the IGN Switch and you supply power to the coil + the current will follow the wire to fuse # 12 and power up the other fuses on the IGN circuit and probably blow fuse # 12. @Debbie Norred are you using a test light or a volt meter to check for power? You could try this. Remove fuses 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16. They should all be 15 AMP. Turn your "screwdriver key" to the run "on" position. Check for power on one of the terminals for fuse 12. Stay on that terminal and add the other fuses one at a time. The power should go away by adding the load of those circuits if the IGN Switch is bad or the connector it plugs into the harness with. The wiring diagram I am looking at shows those 5 fuses on the same buss bar powered from the IGN Switch. If there are others not shown then you still may not see power on fuse # 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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